/. 


'"^i^"'''** 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  aro  checked  below. 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


u 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


D 


Couverture  endommag6e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  peiiicul6e 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


□ 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


D 

D 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relid  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  !ong  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 


10 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


D 

^3 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^meotaires; 

This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul^es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxe( 
Pages  ddcolordes,  tachet^es  ou  piqu6es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6tach6es 

Showthroughy 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualiti  indgale  de  I'impression 

includes  supplementary  materia 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppldmentaire 


I  I  Pages  damaged/ 

I  I  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

I — I  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I  I  Pages  detached/ 

I  I  Showthrough/ 

I  I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I  I  includes  supplementary  material/ 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensuro  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partieliement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  fiimdes  d  nouveau  de  fa^on  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

1 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

M 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 


L'exempiaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grAce  d  la 
gAnArositA  de: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  AtA  reproduites  avec  te 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetA  de  rexemplaire  filmA,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  Impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimAe  sont  filmte  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  termlnant  soit  par  la 
dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustratlon,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'lllustration  et  en  termlnant  par 
la  derniAra  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaltra  sur  la 
dernlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmte  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffArents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  saul  cllchA,  11  est  filmA  A  partir 
da  Tangle  supArleur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  da  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


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TOWARD    THE    SUNRISE 

Hi 

A  (Guide 

T"  TIIK 

SKACOAST  KHSORTS  OF  HASTKRN  MAINK 
NKW  BinJNSWICK,   NOVA  SCOTIA 
;.  PKINCK  HDWAKD  ISLAND  AND 

CAPH  BRHTON. 


lIJ.rSTKATlvU 


'••..••• 


PUBLISHKD   BY   THK 

INTrCRNAXIONAT.     STKAMSHIH     COMl^ANV 

BOSTON. 

1805. 


^ 


i 


^ 


.^TP.- 


INTERNATIONAL   STEAMSHIP   COMPANY. 


J.  15.  COVLE,  Manager,  Portland,  Me. 

E.  A.  WALDRON,  General  Agent,  Hoston,  Mass.        ' 


\ 


'  ) 


Tukils  imii  (hiienil  liiformatioii  may  be  ohtaincii  at  the  foUo-aHiig  A)ienci,-s  of 

the  Company  :  — 


HOSTON,  Mass. 
BOSTON,  Mass. 
PORTK.'XNU,  Me. 
EASTPORT,  Me. 
CALAIS,  Me.       . 
ST.  JOHN,  N.li. 


E.  A.  Wai.dkon,  r.eneml  Agent,  Commercml  Wharf. 

A.  J.  Simmons,  211  Washington  Street. 

H.  P.  C.  Hbrsev,  Railro.ail  Wharf. 

.A.   H.  Leamtt,  International  S.S.  Company's  Wharf. 

Jas.  I,.  Thompson,  Frontier  Steamlmat  Company. 

C.  E.  I.AEtHLEP,  Reed's  Point  Wharf. 


Also  at  offices  of  Sonthern  and  Western  Lines;    the    Fall    River,    Providence,    Sionvigton    and 
Norwich  Line^  of  Steamers:    and  in  New  Enslaml  and  the  Provio'res. 


a 


^ 


S' 


^ 


R.    A.    tt'1'PI.Y   CO.,    PRINTERS,    liOSTOV 
309 


3MPANY. 


Mass. 


tjr  A,^t'HL'it's  of 

ommercial  Wharf, 
reel. 

L"ompany'.s  Wharf. 

)oat  Company. 

arf. 

lence,    Stonvigton    and 


_L 


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0.. 


! 


t4 
Q 

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c 

c) 
-i 


TABLE    OF   CONTENTS. 


PAGB 

POKM,  SUNRISK  I.ANU 

4 

INTRODl'CTORY 

KN  VOYAGE -         _ 

7 

THK     NORTH     .SHORK— BKACO.N'S— PORTL.V.NI)  —  K.VSTWARD     FROM 
PORTLAND— MAIXK  COA.ST   AT  .SUN.SKT  —  .SU-VRISK. 

PASSAMAyrODDY  BAY  -        .       .        - ,q 

KA.STPORT— CAMI'OHKI.LO— LUBEC— SrRROrNDINC.   TOWNS. 

GRAND  MANAN ^ 

ACROSS   THE   BAY  — CLIFFS   OK    MANAN  — SALINK  TVl'ES. 

THlv  ST.  CROIX    -----... 

ST.     ANDREWS— ROBBINSTON  — UP      RIVER     TO     CALAIS     AND    .ST. 
STEPHEN- LAKES   VTOPIA    AND   ST.    GEORCE. 

ST.  JOHN 38 

CITY   AND   RIVER  — THE    PICTIRK-SQIE    VOYAGE    TO    FREDICRICTON 
—  UPPER    RIVER   AND  GRAND   FALLS. 

FISHING  GROUNDS 

4/ 

THE   TOBlyrE  — MIRAMICHI— RESTIGOUCHE    AND    JACyiET— FISH 
AND  GAME  LAWS— EASTWARD  TO   MONCTON. 

PRINCE  EDWARD  ISLAND -        ...        ,8 

THE    GARDEN    OK    CANADA  — SUMMERSIDE  — CHARLOTTETOWN — 
RU.STICO— SPORTS— RURAL  TYPES— THE   RETURN. 

TO  NOVA  SCOTIA  BY  RAIL -        62 

TANTRAMAR  MARSHES  — TOWNS  EN  ROUTE— HI.STORIC  GROUNDS 
—  THE   REGION   OF   MINF:S— STRAIT  OF  CANSO. 

CAPE  BRETON .        .  -    .        .        .        .       gg 

THE  BRAS  D'OR  LAKES— SYDNEY- HI.STORIC  LOUISBURG  — BAD- 
DF;CK  — WHYCdcOMAGH  — THE  GREAT  WILDERNESS. 

NOVA  SCOTIA       -        -        -        - g 

DIGBY  AND  THK  ANNAPOLIS  BASIN  —  ANNAPOLIS  AND  THE 
VALLEY,— EVANGELINE'S  LAND— GRAND  PRE—  MINAS 
BASIN  — WINDSOR  — HALIFA.V  AND  THK  SOUTH  SHORE- 
CONCH'SION. 


UliWW 


r 


.(i-— i  -  -- . 


i^Wl 


Hy  thv  warm  breath  of  Siniinier  gently  famied, 
Awiiy  from  home  and  thoughts  of  care  we  steal 
Within  the  wide-decked  ship  whose  eager  keel. 
Spurning  our  shores,  steers  forth  for  "Sunrise  I/.md. 
N'ow  vast  and  multitudinous  on  each  hand, 
The  restless,  surging  ocean  billows  reel. 
And  o'er  their  foam-capped  crests  to  us  reveal 
The  outlines  of  a  panorama  grand,— 
Passamaquoddy's  shores  and  i-lands  iireeu, 
The  rugged  sea-girt  cliffs  of  Grand  Manan, 
iMirever  washed  by  Fundy's  mighty  tides, 
Acadian  fields,  and  Blomidon's  steep  sides. 
And  Breton's  Cape  whereon  the  sun  to  man 
New  rising  in  the  western  world  is  seen. 


'    ♦    * 


net). 

steal 

keel. 

rise  I.iiiul." 


veal 


Mm^e-m^-:.,^:t>ts^ir^i^^ 


/ATgOD^^ 


VEXING  question  this,  "  How  and  where  shall 
I  spend  my  vacation  ?  "  when  a  hundred  attrac- 
tions offer  themselves  in  tempting  array.  You 
may  have  "done"  resorts  near  home  till  the 
desire  for  "  something  new  "  demands  attention. 
Then  allow  me  to  offer  a  few  suggestions. 
From  the  tourist's  point  of  view  there  are 
always  new  worlds  to  conquer,  fresh  fields  to 
visit,  new  experiences  to  live.  The  surprising 
thing  is  that  so  much  remains  so  near  at  hand  and  so  rich  in  entertain- 
ment. You  may  not  appreciate  how  much  lies  in  store  for  you  "  just 
over  the  border,"  in  that  region  "  toward  the  sunrise,"  that  landscapes 
of  unique  and  varied  beauties  wait  to  gladden  your  eye ;  nor  how  novel 
may  be  your  experiences  under  another  flag.  Not  alone  a  land  of 
strange  and  beautiful  physical  features,  but  also  rich  in  historic  memories 
and  bathed  in  the  soft  glamour  of  romance.  All  this,  and  more,  is  true 
of  that  portion  of  Canada  called  the  Maritime  Provinces,  the  "  Acjuod- 
die  "  of  the  Indian,  the  Acadia  of  the  pioneers  of  France  in  the  New- 
World. 

Who  has  not  conjured  up  legends  and  tales  at  mention  of  "  Passa- 
maquoddy,"  or  felt   a   stimulus  in   the  resounding  names   of  "  Grand 


Manan  "  or  "  Inindy  "  ?  wliat  sjiortsnian  that  lias  not  seen  visions  of 
noble  game  and  Indian  guides  with  deft  paddles,  to  the  music  of  such 
names  as  "  Metapedia,"  "  Restigouche,"  or  "  Miramichi  "? 

Certainly  none  could  have  read  "  Mvangeline  "  without  a  longing  for 
the  fair  fields  of  drand  I'rt}  and  the  mysterious  forests  of  Hiomitlon. 
All  this  becomes  reality  for  him  who  reads,  by  means  of  the  water  route 
of  the  well-established  Intirnational  Steamship  Company, —  a  reality 
l)refaced  l)y  all  the  delights  of  an  ocean  voyage  sans  discomforts,  —  a 
voyage  skirting  the  jjictured  shores  of  more  than  half  New  Kngland,  the 
waters  of  I'assaniatiuoddy  and  Fundy  Hays,  having  Boston  for  its  initial 
point,  Portland  and  Eastport  its  intermediate  landings,  and  St.  John  its 
terminal. 

'I'his  company  has  three  side-wheel  steamers,  the  "  State  of  Maine," 
"  Cumberland,"  and  "  New  lirunswick,"  the  two  first  named  of  about 
sixteen  hundred  tons  burden,  anil  the  latter  of  about  one  thousand  tons, 
fitted  with  conveniences  and  luxuries  of  modern  naval  construction. 
The  cuisine  and  service  have  long  been  a  matter  of  note  to  travellers, 
and  are  kejjt  at  an  unvaryingly  high  standard  of  excellence. 

In  connection  with  its  steamship  lines  this  company  has  established 
a  system  of  tourist  routes  and  rates  (see  latter  part  of  book),  covering 
rail  and  steamboat  lines  necessary  for  reaching  the  summer  resorts  of 
Maine,  as  well  as  those  within  the  Maritime  Provinces  of  New  Bruns- 
wick and  Nova  Scotia,  Prince  Edward  Island  and  Cape  Breton,  famous 
C.rand  Manan,  the  charming  Passama(iuoddy  liay  resting  retreats  of 
Campobello  Island  and  St.  Andrews-by-the-Sea. 

The  reader  will  readily  understand  that  the  limited  space  afforded  in 
a  book  of  this  tlescription  will  not  allow  of  an  exhaustive  treatment  of  the 
many  summer  resorts  reached  by  this  company  and  its  connections. 

A  resume  of  personal  observations,  combined  with  numerous  im- 
pressions of  other  and  more  careAil  observers  and  writers,  is  all  that  the 
author  can  offer  on  this  most  fascinating  of  subjects.  "  See  it  for  your- 
self" is  the  only  perfect  satisfaction. 


r  '. 


^  .1 


Ti^tfm^fiti^iaaKii^'aAriii^i 


seen  visions  of 
;  music  of  such 
'? 

ut  a  longing  for 
s  of   Hioniidon. 

the  water  route 
my, —  a  reality 
liscomforts,  —  a 
;\v  England,  tlie 
on  for  its  initial 
and  St.  John  its 

5tate  of  Maine," 
lanied  of  about 
i  thousand  tons, 
\\  construction. 
)te  to  travellers, 
ice. 

'  has  established 
book),  covering 
nmer  resorts  of 
of  New  Hruns- 
Hreton,  famous 
ting   retreats  of 

pace  afforded  in 
treatment  of  the 
onnections. 
1  numerous  im- 
rs,  is  all  that  the 
See  it  for  your- 


mr.  NOKTU  SHOKK-  lii:AC()N'S-I'()RTI.ANI>- 
MAINK.  (OAST  AT  SINSKT- SINKISK. 


l"rER  an  admonitory  blast  or  two  from  the  hoarse 
throat  of  the  whistle,  the  polite  suggestion,  "  All 
ashore  that's  going  ashore,"  the  heavy  i)lash  of 
stern  and  bow  line  by  the  steamer's  side,  the  great 
|)iston  plunges  into  the  depths  of  the  engine  pit, 
and  the  ponderous  wheels  begin  their  revolutions, 
not  to  cease  until  two  hundred  and  thirty  miles 
and  more  have  been  spanned,  and  twenty-one 
thousand  revolutions  scored  on  the  wonderfully  human  little  register 
below. 

From  the  hurricane  deck  the  roofs  of  the  warehouses  seem  moving 
slowly  away,  the  voyage  is  actually  begun ;  we  would  not  bespeak  for 
you  any  other  than  a  balmy,  sunny  day,  be  it  early  or  late  summer,  or 
mid-season,  the  great  steamer,  in  its  holiday  attire  of  gay  bunting,  re- 
ceiving numerous  little  marine  courtesies  from  small  craft,  glides  out 
among  the  exhilarating  scenes  of  a  great  harbor  at  the  height  of  the 
season,  and  heads  for  the  open  sea. 

Perhaps  for  the  first  time  you  will  realize,  as  )ou  look  back,  what  an 
evolution  Boston  is  undergoing  in  its  physical  aspects  at  least,  as  the 
half-dozen  recent  architectural  achievements  assert  themselves,  and  soar 
grandly  heavenward.  Wonderfully  striking  and  picturesque  it  is,  sug- 
gestive perhaps  also  of  the  "  Greater  Boston  "  that  is  to  be  ;  the  gilded 
dome  sinks  into  a  secondary  position,  dwarfed  by  the  superior  tow- 
ers that  stand  before  it. 

The  steamer  is  now  swiftly  leaving  the  city  behind  and  bringing  into 
view  the  islands  of  the  harbor,  —  (lovernor's,  with  il;i  sullen,  silent  Fort 


7 


i' 


Wintlirop,  on  the  left,  Castle  Island,  with  massive  waiU  ol"  Fort  Inde- 
pendence on  the  right,  tied  to  South  lioston  by  a  many-spanned  bridge, 
and  fcjllowing  the  main  ship  channel,  Spectacle  and  I,ong  Islands  glide 
silently  by.  That  large  gr()n|)  of  buildings  on  the  left  is  not  a  stmimer 
resort  exactly,  although  it  is  (|uite  a  favorite  retreat  for  certain  individuals 
who  frequent  it  at  the  invitation  ami  expense  of  the  municipality  '.  A  mile 
or  so  and  we  are  off  the  northern  end  of  Long  Island  and  Nix's  Mate, 
with  (Jalloui^e's  and  I.ovell's  beyond.  It  is  just  here  that  our  course  is 
brcjuglU  around  to  N.  K.  by  K.  and  we  are  Iieaded  straight  for  Cape 
Ann  ;  on  our  right,  again,  the  striking  group  of  the  I'.rewsters  swings  into 
view,  (Ireat,  Middle,  and  Outer;  just  beyond  and  over  the  Middle, 
looming  white  in  the  morning  sunlight,  stands  the  tower  of  Boston  Light. 

"Though  if  a  cloud-shade  chance  to  dip 
Upon  it   a  moment,  'twill  sutklcnly  sink. 
Levelled  and  lost  in  the  darkened  main, 
Till  tlic  sun  liuilds  it  suddenly  up  again 
As  if  with  a  rub  of  Aladdin's  lamp." 

The  broad  waters  of  Massachusetts  Bay  open  up  before,  sprinkled 
with  many  a  flying  sail,  the  line  of  smoke  from  a  distant  steamer  deli- 
cately pencilled  along  the  soft  summer  sky.  Nahant,  first  to  appear  of 
the  group  of  headlands  along  the  North  Shore,  lifts  itself  as  a  kind  of 
promise  of  much  that  is  to  follow.  Behind  it  a  golden  thread  moors  it 
to  the  land,  then  melts  away  on  either  side  in  glistening,  shining  strands, 
—  the  beaches  of  Revere  and  Lynn. 

The  moving  panorama  shifts  again,  and  another  bold  peninsula 
stretches  out  along  the  northern  horizon,  flanked  by  the  white  beaches 
and  glowing  bits  of  ledge  of  Swampscott  on  oiie  side,  the  dim  out- 
lines melting  into  mist  on  the  other.  It  is  Marblehead  Neck ;  from  it 
to  the  many  spires  of  Lynn  a  chain  of  summer  colonies,  basking  in  the 
mellow  light,  close  on  our  port  the  tiny  light  on  Egg  Rock.  As  the 
light  on  the  neck  comes  into  full  view, 

"  Xot  far  aw.iy  we  see  the  port,  "•  • 

The  strange,  old-fashioned,  silent  town,  , 

The  lighthouse,  the  dismantled  fort,  ^    !    ■ 
The  wooden  houses,  quaint  and  brown  " 

of  Marblehead  itself,  that  delightful  old  town  of  song  and  story,  gnarly, 
knotty,  loyal,  and  conservative.  Salem,  scarcely  less  interesting  in  its 
picturesfiueness,  modestly  retires  to  its  snug  harbor  behind  Marblehead, 
and  is  scarcely  discernible  through  the  haze  of  an  early  morning,  dim 

• 

8 


1 


VJ,  ..-^■JBMIW'V-."- 


i  of  Fort  Iiidf- 
ipanncd  bridge, 
ig  Islands  glide 
not  a  siiminer 
•tain  individuals 
ipality  :  A  mile 
md  Nix's  Mate, 
It  our  course  is 
aiglit  for  Cape 
ters  swings  into 
er  the  Middle, 
if  Boston  Light. 


efore,  sprinkled 
t  steamer  deli- 
st to  appear  of 
If  as  a  kind  of 
hread  moors  it 
ihining  strands, 

bold  peninsula 
white  beaches 
,  the  dim  out- 
Neck  ;  from  it 
basking  in  the 
Rock.     As  the 


I  story,  gnarly, 

teresting  in  its 

id  Marblehead, 

morning,  dim 


and  >liadowy  like  the  tales  that  Hawthorne  wove  from  the  witc  hery  of 
Salem's  olilen  time.  Indeed,  how  saturated  with  the  glamour  of 
romance  and  tradition  is  all  this  northern  shore,  from  I'.oston  I5ay  to 
I'ortsmouth  town  I  How  many  names  dear  to  New  England's  heart,  or 
written  on  fame's  fair  scroll,  are  suggested  to  the  mind  of  the  beholder  ! 

From  Salem  to  Cape  Ann's  rocky  verge  is  an  almost  continuous  i)ro- 
cession  of  country  villas  ;  creations  of  many  of  the  first  architects  of  our 
day;  homes  of  elegance,  luxury,  and  refinement.  Heverly,  Manchester, 
Magnolia,  all  of  them  backeil  by  mile  upon  mile  of  bronze  green 
verdure.  Eastern  Point,  another  of  our  favorite  haunts,  supporting  on 
its  bald  front  a  light,  marks  the  entrance  to  Cdoucester  and  its  ami)le 
harbor,  from  whose  remote  shelter  a  score  of  sail  are  lazily  drifting. 

For  some  time  jjast  two  gray  towers  have  l)een  growing  out  of  the 
distance,  like  the  dim  portals  to  some  mysterious  haven,  out  there  be- 
yond Cape  .Ann,  — 

"  'I'wo  pale  sisters  all  alone. 
On  an  island  hleak  ami  hare,"  — 

the  Cape  Ann  lights  of  Thatcher's  Island,  first  to  the  eye  of  the  trans- 
atlantic pilot,  first,  also,  in  their  classification  and  importance,  their  twin 
columns  rising  a  hundred  and  twelve  teet  skyward,  constituting,  with 
Boston  Light,  the  Shoals,  and  Cape  Elizabeth,  the  great  guideboards,  as 
it  were,  from  Boston  to  Portland.  It  is  just  here  that  the  steamer's 
course  is  shaped,  either  for  Portlaiul  or  Eastport  as  the  case  may  lie  ;  if 
for  the  latter,  east  by  north,  to  Matinicus  Light,  if  the  former,  as  our  pres- 
ent purpose  requires,  then  it  is  for  Cape  Elizabeth  Light,  and  within 
sight  of  the  Isles  of  Shoals,  those  "  half-dozen  fragments  of  wave-worn 
rock,  thrust  up  from  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  like  the  cast-off  remnants  of 
a  continent,"  that  wonderful,  sunny  archipelago,  like 

"A  string  of  pearls  they  lie  c)n  Ocean's  bre.ist, 
Steeped  in  a  languor  brought  them  from  afar." 

They,  too,  have  been  sung  by  poets  and  limned  by  artists  as  no  other 
island  group  along  our  coast.  It  seems  (juite  apropos  that  the  light- 
keeper's  daughter  should  possess  a  poet's  soul,  should  be  the  annalist 
and  idealizer  of  its  charms  and  mysteries. 

The  indefinite  and  misty  shore  line  that  reaches  in  a  vari-hued  are 
from  Cape  Ann  to  Cape  Neddick  we  know  to  be  the  boundary  of  three 
States  on  the  ocean  side,  the  strands  to  which  so  many  thousands  flee 
for  their  breath  of  salty  air  and  cooling  bath  ;  Agamenticus  only,  the 
storied  hill  of  York,  standing  out  in  strong  relief,  a  sort  of  beacon  to 


^ 


11 


is 


guide  the  sailor  to  a  salt-  JKuiior.  Ibis  liiii  iiad  iit.'(  iiliar  fascinations  to 
tiic  Indian,  a  tradition  averring  tlial  St.  Aspfiniiiid.  a  propiiet  and  saint 
of  tliesc  |ii'o|(lo,  was  interred  wilii  sasage  jionijjof  fniierai  rites  upon  its 
summit  ;  let  us  be  tliankful  thai  its  sonorous  name  still  lives,  tiv.ugli 
Charles  I.  sought  to  distinguish  it  with  the  name  of  lioston.  Moon  Island 
and  its  light,  that  romes  just  in  line  with  .\gauienti(  lis,  stands  out  in  soli- 
tary isolation,  some  ten  miles  from  shore  or  neighbor.  It  is  about  this 
time  when  blue  roat  and  brass  buttons,  assisted  by  a  bell,  aimounces 
diiuier,  and  an  opportunity  offers  to  discover  that  one  (an  get  as  perfect 
service  on  a  steamer  as  on  shore,  //  he  is  on  the  present  steamer. 

Returning  to  our  picture  gallery  on  deck,  nearly  three  hours  of  c(jn- 
stant  ilelight  is  exjjerienced  prior  to  arrival  off  ('a])e  I'lli/abeth, //v',-7(/(</ 
you  have  not  violated  the  laws  of  nature  by  unceremoniously  rushing 
through  the  bill  of  fare  I  Just  here  we  review  the  fair  summer  land>  of 
Scarborough  antl   Old  Urchanl    beaciies,   curving  gracefully  around  to 


westward  and  Wood  Island  Light  farther  still  to  Cape  Porpoise  and  dear 
old  Kennebunk,  fifteen  miles  or  so  away,  every  inch  of  it  mouldy  with 
the  history  of  two  hundred  years  and  more.  Pathetic  history,  too,  some 
of  it,  that  of  decadence  from  the  palmy  days  of  shipbuilding  to  be 
awakened  again  by  the  advent  of  "  improvement  companies"  with  their 
jingling  ducats. 

The  twin  lights  ot  l^li/.abeth,  range  lights  they  are  called,  one  a 
"  first-order  fixetl,"  the  other  a  flashing  light,  are  among  the  finest  of 
our  exceptionally  fine  lighthouse  service.  We  seem  to  be  competent  to 
Airnish  guidance  at  any  rate,  if  other  powers  furnish  ships,  —  something 
to  be  grateful  for  !  The  High  Head  of  Cape  Elizabeth  might  more 
aptly  be  called  Cahbagdicmi !  for  aside  from  lighthouses  and  rock  it  lUiu 
to  cabbages,  six  thousand  tons  of  them  raised  in  one  year  !  Another 
croj)  also  seems  indigenous  to  this  spot,  one  not  as  profitable  or  pleasing 
to  contemplate,  one  "  sown  Ijy  the  tempest,  reaped  by  the  whirlwind  " 


lO 


I    nitfr 


I  tlllrffltfe 


-,>n.^=r{,-u'-^^3aljaia^Y- 


.JsJ^iao:^ 


ig^ 


^SlmK^tSiU^ 


fascinations  to 
)I)iiet  and  saint 
\\  rites  npun  its 
11  lives,  tlv.ugli 
1.  lio(in  Island 
andsont  in  soli- 
it  is  about  this 
hell,  announces 
n  get  as  perfec  t  / 
steamer, 
e  hours  of  c(jn- 
'.aheth,  proviiiiii 
)niously  rushing 
uninier  lands  of 
jfully  arounil  to 


)rpoise  and  dear 
it  mouldy  with 
story,  too,  some 
[)l)uilding  to  he 
nits"  with  their 

i  called,  one  a 
iig  the  finest  of 
be  competent  to 
ps,  —  something 
;th  might  more 
and  rock  it  runs 

year !  Anotiier 
table  or  pleasing 

the  whirlwintl  " 


as  it  were,  for  periiaps  no  one  locality  Maine  coast-wise  has  seen  so  maiiv 
wrecks.  One  jiage  alone  from  the  marine  diary  will  suffice,  its  date 
Sei)temher  26,  1889,  when  several  h()|icless  wrecks  strewed  Kli/ai)eth 
and  Scarborough  shore  I 

liut  tliese  are  not  congenial  sui)jects.  an<l  while  we  are  retrospecting, 
Portland  Mead  has  "hove  insight,"  its  light  the  fust  to  shine  on  tiiis 
(oast,  dating  from  1790,  and  marking  one  extreme  of  Casco  Hay,  Seguin 
the  other,  and  Half-Way  its  central  point,  or  nearly  so.  Passing  Kam 
Island,  which  looks  jierfectly  harmless,  we  are  confronted  by  the  rather 
imposing  Ottawa  House,  charmingly  placed  on  (bushing's  Island,  the 
most  imi)ortant  resort  perhaps  on  the  bay.  Passing  House  Islan<l  on 
which  Fort  Scammel  solemnly  stands,  with  Fort  (lorges  beyond,  and 
historic  l''ort  I'reble  on  our  left,  we  are  fairly  in  Portland  Harbor  and 
before  the  fair  citv  itself. 


1 1 


^^^ 


ii 


Tfe\J 


"  The  jircatest  scai)()rt  in  the  world  could  not  have  a  more  splendid 
or  n)ore  imposing  approach,"  says  Drake;  and  certainly  none  is  more 
worthy  of  it  than  the  Forest  City,  tiueen  of  Maine's  municipalities,  seated 
on  her  noble  hill,  the  proud  monarch  of  fair  Casco  Bay  and  of  a  harbor 
unexcelle<l  on  the  Atlantic  seaboard. 

Her  streets,  lined  ami  arched  by  stately  elms,  fronted  by  no  less 
stately  churches  and  colonial  mansions,  suggest  her  hii^toric  i)ast,  or 
recall  the  memory  of  her  beloved  poet,  Longfellow  ;  with  her  numerous 
handsome  civic  and  commercial  buildings,  her  "  inalienable  freehold  in 
pure  air,  generous  sunshine,  and  the  most  ex(|uisite  of  sea-scapes,"  it  is 
natural  that  Portland  should  prove  attractive  to  a  stranger,  and  on  closer 
acipiaintance  a  most  "  livable  "  town. 

Po[)ulated  by  some  twoscore  thousand  souls,  the  terminal  of  several 
railroad  lines,  the  very  heart,  indeed,  from  which  numerous  railway 
arteries  radiate,  north,  east,  and  west  to  the  great  seaside  resorts  of 
Maine,  the  White  Mountains,  and  the  woods,  lakes,  and  streams  of  the 
north,  and  of  course  the  first  maritime  city  east  of  Boston,  the  temptation 
is  strong  to  dwell  on  such  a  congenial  subject  much  more  than  our 
limited  space  allows.  Portland  has  a  history,  too,  a  rich  and  savory  one  ; 
dating  from  its  incorporation  as  Falmouth  in  1658,  re-incorporated  as 
Portland  in  1 786,  known  also  to  the  savage  as  Machigonne.  Such 
names  as  Munjoy,  Bramhall,  Preble,  Cleves,  and  a  score  of  others  keep 
alive  the  memories  of  those  whose  valor  or  greatness  has  made  history. 
Of  course  every  one  will  wish  to  find  the  old  house  of  Peleg  Wadsworth, 
he  of  Castine  fame,  and  grandfather  of  the  poet,  standing  near  the  hardly 
less  venerable  Preble  House,  and  the  birthplace  of  the  poet  on  Fore 
Street. 

The  antitpiated  eastern  cemetery  will  furnish  material  for  a  good 
day's  rummaging  among  its  moss-grown  stones  and  tablets. 

Some  hot  naval  engagements  have  taken  place  off  Portland,  that  of 
the  "Boxer"  and  "Enterprise"  in  1814  leading  the  list.  She  also 
enjoys  the  distinction  of  being  the  only  Northern  port  visited  by  rebels 


12 


.^•v 


more  splenditi 

none  is  more 

palities,  seateil 

11(1  of  a  harbor 

letl  by  no  less 
■torir  i)ast,  or 
i  her  numerous 
)le  freehold  in 
a-scapes,"  it  is 
,  and  on  closer 

inal  of  several 
iicrous  railway 
side  resorts  of 
5treams  of  the 
the  temptation 
nore  than  our 
id  savory  one  ; 
ncorporated  as 
igonne.  Such 
3f  others  keep 
i  made  history, 
eg  Wadswortli, 
lear  the  hardly 
;  poet  -on  Fore 

al   for  a  good 

jrtland,  that  of 
list.  She  also 
sited  by  rebels 


i«ir-iirri»atiiii 


iiirniiMl  iiiiartatr'  -  •i«t tTi'fr  ; 


dunn;;  the  C.'i.il  War.  s.k  rilit  in;;  1)\  lli.il  (l.uiiij;  feat  here  utter  "  Cu^liing." 
Portland,  too  ii.i>  been  tried  iiy  fire,  that  famous  disaster  of  July  4,  1H66, 
wipini,'  out  nearly  one  iialf  the  (  ity,  and  esiilaining  the  air  of  newness  in 
its  western  section,  enhancing  perhaps  the  value  of  tiie  iiislori(  remains, 
revealing,  too,  the  signitlcance  of  its  seal,  the  phd-nix  rising  from  ashes  and 
bearing  the  legend,  "  Kesurgam." 

liut  the  views,  yes.  and  sinh  views  !  those  of  liramhall's  and  Mun- 
joy's  hills,  or  "  Western  and  Eastern  promenades,"  as  they  are  now 
known  ,  from  one,  — 

" 'I'liu  ^WLLp  of  ;i  lii»l  111  iniMiiU.iiio, 
riif  ll.isii  iif  \\  liiiiuliid  lilN  "  J 


Stroudwater  and  Presumpcott  v/inding  through  their  evergreen  beds,  and 
the  White  Momitains  scarce  sixty  miles  away  ;  and  from  the  other,  the 
fairy  archipelago  of  Casco  Bay,  —  no,  it  is  not  strange  that  our  ])oet 
often  recurs  to  the  fair  home  of  his  youth  :  — 

"Often  I  think  of  the  heaiitiful  town 
That  is  seated  by  the  sea  ; 
,  Often  in  thought  go  up  and  ilown 

The  pleasant  streets  of  that  dear  old  town,  -      ' 

And  my  youth  conies  back  to  nie  "  ; 


n 


riawiK-asi.-. -<i-nwa»^i^!^s5'  ' 


1 1  >  TiW  i  ■'■■sx^a^api 


H 


nr  lli.it  iii.my  of  (.iir  writers  fi-lt  drawn  to  its  iiuilinK  siuidcs.  C.miI.I 
iIhtc  Ik-  iiifiiti..iH'(l  .iny  .jiy  ,,f  \o\v  KnK'iaiul  iiK.rc  di'siral.k-  a>>  a  siim- 
inir  roM)rt?  A  tfm|HTatiiri-  always  mil.l  ;  a  hroatli  In.ni  t lie  sea  ever 
innviiijr;  an  incxhaiistil.lo  list  nf  cvnrsion  trips  always  in  hand  ;  a  social 
lift-  tiiat  is  eminently  <liarniinK  and  desirable;  and  a  i'ui)lii:  Library  nf 
^reat  valne. 

It  is  bnt  twelve  miles  fnini  the  <  ity  of  Portland  to  Old  Orchard 
l!ea<h.  and  the  train  delivers  its  passengers  directly  in  the  midst  of  one 
of  the  liveliest  seashore  scenes  in  the  worl.l.  The  beach  is  but  a  hnndred 
yards  distant,  its  great  combing  snrf  line  making  itself  known  at  once- 
The  largest  hotels  upon  the  coast  of  Maine  are  here,  and  invite  a  sojourn. 

Old  Or.hird  ranks  with  Cape  May  and  Atlantic  City  in  |)opidarity 
with  sinniner  guests.  It  may  be  reached  on  the  day  of  departm-e  frnn'i 
Boston,  in  season  for  a  six-o'clock  tea.  by  the  ocean  day  line  in  con- 
nection with  trains  at  the  I'ortlan.l  rnion  Station. 

The  reader  may  fmd  all  this  ;ind  a  IionI  of  other  valnablo  suggestions 
in  i:i well's  (Miide  to  the  city. 


MITEHCflO 


•4 


■  Iiadcs.  ('(Mild 
mIiIc  as  a  siiin- 
II  the  si-a  ever 
hand  ;  a  social 
l)lii'  Library  ot' 

Ol.l  Ordiard 
c  midst  of  oiif 
liiit  :i  liiindri'd 
noun  at  oiuc- 
vitL'  a  sojourn. 

in  |)o|)iilarity 
I  (.'part  II  re  from 
ly  line  in  con- 

)lc  sii},'j,a'stions 


ilTEHCflO 


»  0 


•;H   ■v.'-V:',''" 


K.VSnVAKD    IKDM     I'ORJI.ANjP. 

JOSSIMLN'  oil  k'aviiig  I'ortland  tlio  tide  will  allow  us  to  ^I't 
a  view  at  short  range  of  that  niagnill<ent  old  sentinel. 
White  Head,  that  stands  guard  on  the  northeasterly  end 
of  C'ushing's  Island  ;  if  so,  it  is  easy  to  understand  why  it 
filled  the  imagination  of  L(jngfellow's  youth,  insjjiring  his 
pen  as  well  as  others.  .\  momentary  jpassage  hclwcen  the  gray  walls  on 
the  starl)oard  and  the  green  banks  on  the  i)ort  side  of  Cushing's  and 
I'eak's  Islands,  and  we  are  met  l)y  one  of  th(we  visions  of  beauty  that 
only  the  coast  of  Maine  reveals, — 

*  "  Mays  rcsi)lcn(leMt  as  the  hcavLii,  ^ 

Starred  and  gf  nimtd  hv  thousand  isles, 
(lire!  thee;  t'asco  with  its  islets, 
Quoddy  with  its  dimpled  smiles,"  — 

melting  into  the  golden  distance  of  a  late  summer  afternoon. 

Drake,  in  his  "  I'ine  Tree  Coast,"  uses  the  apt  illustration  of  a 
ploughed  field  for  this  remarkable  bay,  the  ocean  having  filled  the  fur- 
rows, and  proiluced  a  cro])  of  some  two  himdred  and  twenty  or  more 
isles,  all  trending  like  the  furrows  in  a  northeasterly  direction.  It  would 
be  madness  to  attempt  to  name  all  the  islands  in  sight,  the  more  prom- 
inent beyond  Peak's  Island  !)eing  Long,  Creat  Chebeague,  Hope. 
Jewell's,  and  the  two  tiny  specks  of  inner  and  outer  (Ireen,  near  which 
latter  rises  a  bare  rock  known  by  the  euphonious  title  of  "  the  hunk  of 
l)ork." 

The  commander  of  one  of  the  steamers  tells  us  of  a  gunner  who, 
deprived  of  his  boat  by  the  rising  tide,  found  very  scant  sustenance  from 
this  same  jjorcine  morsel  during  a  long  November  day  and  night.  Hy 
the  way,  how  much  the  enjoyment  of  a  sea  trip  is  enhanced  by  a  cheery 
and  communicative  captain,  such,  for  instance,  as  will  be  found  on  the 
steamers  of  the  International  line  ! 


»5 


ill 


I  tsg 


\i 
!i 

!  SI 
Iff 


:^- 


u  \  :ii 


i> 


•  Hut  to  renew  our  Icssuii  in  geography,  after  passing  the  (ireen  Islands, 
Broad  Sound  opens  on  the  left,  and  beyond,  Merriconeague  Sound  with 
Harpswell's  Neck  on  its  left,  IJailey's  and  storied  Orr's  on  the  right. 
This  brings  us  to  Half-Way  Rock  with  its  granite  shaft  and  light,  sup- 
posedly e(iuidistant  from  Portland  and  the  Kennebec,  init  actually  "  half- 
way from  nowhere,"  as  the  pilot  i)uts  it. 

Our  course  is  now  made  east  by  north,  and  from  Half-Way  to  Seguin 
Light  is  fifteen  miles.  Northward  lay  Harpswell's  historic  shores,  and  on 
the  other  hand, 

"  Far  out  at  sua. 

The  ships  that  tlee 
Along  the  dim  horizon  line, 
Their  sails  nnfuKI 
Like  cloth  of  gold, 
Transfigured  l)y  that  light  divine." 

After  i)assing  Cape  Sinall,  Seguin,  which  has  been  growing  steadily, 
looms  proudly  before  us,  just  a  trifle  to  jjort,  lifting  its  head  two  hundred 
feet  in  air,  marking  most  appropriately  the  estuary  of  the  Kennebec. 

The  labyrinthine  coast  line  stretches  away  into  purple  distance,  flecked 
with  brilliant  touches  of  sunlight  on  the  myriad  summer  houses  that 
throng  the  shores  of  Popham. 

It  is  eiTiinently  fitting  that  "  M'nhiggin,"  as  the  old  salts  call  it,  bathed 
in  sunset  glory  should  mark  the  close  of  day.  Historic,  romantic, 
delicious  old  Monhegan,  beloved  by  pirate,  trader,  fisherman,  and  artist 
as  well,  for  wellnigh  three  centuries  !  Its  light  guiding  the  storm-chased 
mariner,  its  tiny  harbor,  just  inside  Monanis,  a  refiige  for  many  a  belated 
fisherman. 

Monhegan  is  in  actuality  two  islands,  the  little  Monanis  separated  by 
a  few  rods  only  from  the  iiiain  island  ;  its  fishing  settlement  oflering  a 
unique  study  for  the  socialist  and  a  perfect  "  find  "  for  the  artist.  It  is 
almost  an  annoyance  to  be  called  to  supper  when  absorbed  in  the  glories 
of  a  sunset  at  sea,  were  it  not  for  the  whetted  appetite  that  clamors,  and 
the  table  which  i)resents  a  menu  that  is  a  work  of  art  in  itself.  Then 
satisfy  the  physical,  that  the  a;sthetic  sense  may  the  more  freely  enjoy 
the  feast  oflered  from  the  hurricane  deck  later. 

The  long  twilight  of  summer  lingers  caressingly  along  the  horizon  far 
astern,  and 

"  Looking  across  where  the  line  of  coast 
Stretches  darkly,  shrinking  away  from  the  sea, 
The  lights  spring  out  at  its  edge." 

All  the  tints  of  opal  and  pearl  shell  play  in  the  steamer's  seething 

»7 


/ 

I 


M 


I 


»WWIi  !■  UWBBi'iMWW 


:1 


wiikc  ;  Monlicgan's  watchttil  eye  sparkles  ami  fleams  tnnii  its  s<)nil)re 
throne  t;ir  to  the  northward;  thirty  miles  away  t'aniden's  noble  moun- 
tains may  l)e  descried  ;  Matiniciis,  scarce  distinj,'iiishal)le  from  a  lesser 
star,  beckons  us  on  ;  while  out  to  sea  the  billows  are  crooniiij;  their  cease- 
less lullaby.  We  are  off  IVnobscot  Hay,  where  the  great  river  "  comes 
to  meet  and  mingle  with  his  own  bright  bay."  'i'his  is  the  land  of  the 
Norseman,  the  region  of  shadowy  Norimibega,  the  favorite  vantage 
ground  of  early  discovery,  of  Jean  I'armentier,  Ramusio,  Jean  Alfonse, 
Roberval,  and  Chamiilain,  the  scene  also  of  the  romantic  adventures  of 
old  liaron  Castine,  whose  name  still  lives  in  the  ipiaint  town  named  for 
him  on  the  Magadnce. 

'i'his  is  a  time  for  reveries,  when  sjjeech  is  useless  and  silence  golden. 
Onward,  still  onward,  "toward  the  sunrise,"  through  the  vast  areas  of 
time  and  space,  and  the  long  restful  hours  of  a  night  at  sea,  past  Mt. 
Desert's  blue-black  forms  ami  the  stately  beacons  that  guartl  the  i)ine- 
tree  coast.  At  early  morn  one  is  awakened  by  call  of  the  bell  boy  or 
the  light  of  a])proaching  ilay,  and  looking  out  finds  far  to  the  north  the 
sharp  blue  line  of  the  Eastern  Maine  hills.  \Ve  are  off  Machias,  the  l)old 
headlands  of  Cutler,  rock-rilibetl,  and  defiant  push  boldly  out  against 
the  brine.  The  peculiarly  sharp  jieak  is  Bool  Head,  and  near  at  hand 
Eastern  Head.  Eastward,  and  still  fixrther  away,  looms  Grand  Manan, 
crowned  with  the  flaming  tiara  of  a  matchless  sunrise.  An  hour  or  more 
of  steaming  in  the  ilelicious  ozone  and  West  Quoddy  Light  is  saluted,  its 
striped  sides  standing  in  sharp  contrast  against  the  green  background  of 
Quoddy  Head  ;  a  moment  later  our  pilot  directs,  "  North,  northwest," 
and  a  sharp  turn  discloses  the  southern  entrance  to  Quoddy  Roads,  and 
the  fair  village  of  Lubec,  crowning  a  hiil,  gleaming  white  in  the  sunlight. 

On  the  right  at  close  range  is  Campobello,  that  coveted  spot  of 
many  charms.  At  last  we  are  at  the  "  end  of  things,"  the  extremity  of 
Uncle  Sam's  domain.  It  is  not  diflicult  to  realize  the  pilot's  skill  as  we 
note  the  tortuous  course  of  the  great  steamer  'mid  fish  weirs,  buoys,  and 
jutting  points,  till  at  last  the  Eubec  narrows  with  its  ferocious  currents  is 
passed  and  the  landing  at  Lubec  reached. 

One  recognizes  on  coming  out  into  Friar  Roads,  that  lie  just  before 
Lubec,  what  it  is  that  attracts  the  hundreds,  and  is  destined  to  call  its 
thousands  to  Passamaquoddy  or  "  Quoddy  "  Bay,  as  it  is  more  commonly 
known.  Its  glistening  waters  are  alive  with  schooners,  trim  yachts,  busy 
ferry  steamers,  and  countless  small  craft  of  every  kind  ;  islands  float  in 
smiling  content,  revealing  atween  their  evergreen  summits  distant  glimp- 
ses of  mountain,  and  reaches  of  Quoddy  Bay. 


19 


» '^mt  -aiiii^ijaA^ViririiiiiTi  'iwii- 1  lii 


Mi 


i:~  I 


i    I 


I  1- 


KASirokl  -  KKSOUIS   ON   THK   IIAV  -  MKK(HNIilN(i 
roWNS-CKANlt   MANAN. 

■J'  is  (.■viilcnt  Iniiii  iIk-  inoiiicnt  o(  arrival  at  Eastport  lliat 
it  is  an  intcnsuly  active  and  luistling  town,  a  sort  of 
( ondcnsed  Yankct'  land,  inti-nsified  as  an  object  lesson 
to  our  more  easy-gonig  Canadian  neighbors.  'I'iiis 
,1^  being  the  very  centre  of  the  great  Kastern  resorts,  the 
,1  ■  fotal  point  from  whence  tourists  radiate  to  the  score  of 
hotels  and  small  towns  that  cater  to  stmimer  travel,  it  is 
(juite  ai)propriate  that  it  should  receive  first  attention. 
I'lie  first  thing  that  imjjresses  a  stranger  (via  his  nostrils)  is  the  herring 
and  sardine  industries,  whose  i)acking  houses  line  the  water  front,  each 
with  its  fishing  boats  in  attendance.  To  be  literal,  the  output  of  smoked 
herring  is  two  million  boxes  or  more,  and  of  canned  sardines  (so  called), 
three  hundred  thousand  cases,  of  which  the  International  freights  the 
major  part.  Wandering  up  from  the  landing  tiirough  the  main  street, 
the  evidences  of  the  fire  of  1887  are  omnipresent  in  the  new  structures 
bearing  that  date.  'I'he  handsome  new  library  building,  erected  by  private 
be(|uest  recently,  heading  the  list,  the  substanial  granite  government 
building  flanking  the  farther  end.  'I'hroughout  tlie  town  many  (|uaint 
old  homesteads  remain  to  keep  alive  the  memory  of  the  past,  which  for 
its  situation  Eastport  has  little  of  importance  to  show. 

it  is  to  the  hill  back  of  the  town  and  back  of  Fort  Sullivan,  where 
now  is  placed  the  water  tower,  that  the  visitor's  feet  should  turn,  for  it 
is  just  here,  if  we  mistake  not,  that  all  the  matcliless  beauty  of  the 
Quoddy  region  unfolds  itself  as  at  no  other  point.  The  eager  eye  drinks 
in  a  mosaic  of  land  and  water  in  every  direction.  Northward  into  the 
heart  of  the  St.  Croix  and  the  Chamcook  Mountains ;  easterly,  upon  the 
fair  bosom  of  Quodily  Bay,  set  with  a  hundred  isles  ;  easterly  still  and 
southward  across  the  noble  mass  of  Campobello  and  old  ocean ;  still 
farther,  to   Grand  Manan,  that  lifts  its  purple  wall  along  the  horizon,  — 


ao 


(>rNiiiN(; 


at  Eastpoit  tliat 
town,  a  sort  of 
an  object  lesson 
ji},'lil)ors.  This 
stum  resorts,  the 
e  to  the  score  of 
nnier  travel,  it  is 
■  first  attention, 
s)  is  the  herring 
vater  front,  each 
utpiit  of  smoked 
lines  (so  called), 
nal  freights  the 
the  main  street, 
new  structures 
reeled  by  private 
lite  government 
.vn  many  (juaint 
:  past,  which  for 


:  Sullivan,  where 
louid  turn,  for  it 
s  beauty  of  the 
eager  eye  drinks 
rthward  into  the 
isterly,  upon  the 
tjasterly  still  and 
M  ocean ;  still 
;  the  horizon,  — 


-.  -^j^i^Qunn  L'q^TPoRT'.j 


iMiSia^mtmm^mifm 


1      ! 


i ; 


I    ti 


t 


cvcrywlu'iv,  in  .ill  iliiri  ti(iii>.  lu'w  in\>Urii^  nl'  l.uul  .iml  w.iut  fii.y.i^t' 
and  I  ,iiiii\,iti'  the  ItilmltUr.  Tlii-.  nulilr  i'1h«  I.iuiIm  .ipi'  i^  lrnl\  K.ist- 
|Miil'i  niii-t  jiiii  i()ii>  li'^.ii  \ . 

"WiIMIk    ri.iiiti'i- km«  Imw  Htriini;lv 
WoiUs  tliv  fiiriii  oil  liiiiii.iii  tlll>ll^l1l  ; 
I  iiiii«r  wliiil  ^iinl  iiiirpiiM'  liiid  111' 
'I'll  (li.iw  all  l.iiii  if^  111  llii-  -|nit." 

.\>  any  ono  will  not  in.'  >\'>\\  lo  discuvcr,  Ka>>i|)()rt  is  on  an  islaiul, 
MociM.'  Wy  naini.  wliosc  ( ()nnf<'ti(in  with  tlu'  niainlanil  is  liy  a  bridge, 
spanninji  tiu'  narmw  sliiji  ot"  watfi' Howinj,' rmni  ('olistuok  liay,  whirl), 
with  NW'st  (Jiuiddy  liay,  ( om])lctL's  tlu'  cm  iidin^,'  nirdk'.  Hourly 
sloanicr  (onncMtiun  with  ( 'anil Id! ii'llo.  i.ulicc,  and  Ndrth  l.nlitc.  half  as 
olU'n  with  I'cnilirokc  or  Dcnnysv  ilk',  daily  with  St,  Andrews,  Koliliinston, 
Calais,  Cirand  Manan,  andSt.  John,  — what  nu-rc  enticing  list  of  pleasure 
trips  ( onld  one  a>k?  , 

CAMPOBELLO, 

being  nearest,  would  naturally  demand  attention,  its  twin  hotels  of 
a-sthetic  Imild,  T'yn-V-foed  and  Ty'n-V  Mai's  ("The  house  in  the 
wood"  and  "The  house  in  the  (lelil"),  placed  high  on  the  hill,  flanked 
by  the  magnificent  Friar's  Head,  and  the  .piaint  settlement  of  Welsh- 
pool. You  will  visit,  of  course,  the  old  ( )wen  Manor  House,  the  home 
of  the  Admiral  iMt/.william  ( )wcn,  to  whom  the  island  was  grantetl  in 
1767,  and  whose  burial  by  candle-light  in  tiie  tiny  family  chapel  was  the 
fitting  close  to  an  eccentric  life  ;  will  then  run  over  to  the  Friar's  Head, 
and  across,  by  one  of  the  most  romantic  bits  of  woodsy  road  in  all 
Canada,  to  the  lovely  Cove  and  Lake  of  C.len  Severn,  Harbor  de  Lute, 
and  among  the  hundreil  aljiine  paths  that  cover  like  network  the  stupentl- 
ous  Eastern  Head.  And  then,  our  kindest  service  would  be,  to  advise 
a  sojourn  at  the  model  hotels  mentioned,  allowing  you  to  wander,  tancy 
free,  in  search  of  the  numberless  and  ever-new  retreats  that  cover  this 
Eden  of  an  islan<l.  Campobello  is  some  eight  miles  loiig  by  three  in 
width,  is  iK)pulated  by  about  twelve  hundred  souls,  mostly  fisher-folk, 
many  of  whom  retain  the  (juaint  flavor  of  their  Scotch  and  \Velsh 
ancestors,  and  is  owned  princajially  by  an  American  stock  company. 
Mrs.  Kate  Ciannett  Wells  has  written  an  api)reciative  little  book  on  the 
island,  and  Arlcj  Hales  makes  it  the  background  for  his  story  of  "  A  Lad's 
Love." 

From  its  natural  ramparts  for-reaching  and  exhilarating  views  open 

,  .-at  : . .  '^^^"''    .  .:  "  •  ^ 


ind  w.itiT   I'li^.i^i' 
,i|ii'   !•>   truly  K.inI- 


t  is  on  an  islaiul, 
i<l  is  !))•  a  hriilfif. 
Itsrook  May,  wliidi, 
;  ^irilli'.  Ilimrly 
nil)  l,iil)c(  .  liair  as 
(Ircws,  k(il)l)inst()n, 
L-ing  list  of  pleasure 


its  twin  iu)tcls  of 
'I'lic  iioiisc  in  tlic 
jn  the  hill,  flanked 
•ttlLMuent  of  W'elsh- 
r  House,  the  home 
land  was  granted  in 
iiily  chapel  was  the 
o  the  Friar's  Head, 
voodsy  road  in  all 
,  Harbor  de  Lute, 
stwork  the  stupend- 
vould  be,  to  advise 
t)U  to  wander,  fancy 
reals  that  cover  this 
les  long  by  three  in 
,  mostly  fisher-folk, 
Scotch  and  \Velsh 
an  stock  company, 
e  little  book  on  the 
s  story  of  "  A  Lad's 

arating  views  open 


T 


up,  to  landward  and  seaward,  upon  Quoddy's  dancing,  merry  waters, 
and  St.  Croix's  sweeping  course,  while  it  would  almost  seem  superfluous 
to  sjjeak  of  its  wonderfully  tonic  air. 

"  Here  as  \vc  mount  and  leave  the  coast  below, 
Lake  leads  to  lake,  sea  opens  into  sea, 
Great  waters  hidden  in  the  land  and  linked 
Together  in  a  somiding  labyrinth." 

LUBEC. 

The  same  stanch  little  steamer  that  plies  to  Cam])ol)ello  also  touches 
at  Lubec,  where,  as  the  reader  will  remember,  the  International  steam- 
ers make  a  landing  at  their  new  pier.  This  quaint  and  altogether 
picturescjue  village  is  also  given  up  to  fish  and  fishing,  and  smokes  and 
boils  and  oils  its  herring  that  come  up  in  silvery  basketfuls  from  the  fish- 
ing boats  by  her  wharves  right  merrily.  It  is  striking  in  perspective,  it 
is  quite  fascinating  at  short  range,  and,  with  its  original  characters,  would 
seem  to  be  only  waiting  for  the  pen  of  Miss  Jewett  or  Miss  VVilkins. 

Its  history  is  quickly  told  ;  having  been  set  ajjart  from  Eastport  in 
1811,  its  setdement  dating  from  about  1772  to  1780,  and  augmented  by 
accessions  of  citizens  who  objected  to  British  rule,  under  which  East- 
port  chafed  till  1817.  There  are  two  comfortable  hotels  in  the  town, 
and  numerous  private  houses  where  summer  guests  are  entertained. 

Four  objective  points  in  Quoddy  Bay  region  give  typical  and  entirely 
distinctive  views.  Of  these,  Lubec  is  one,  from  whose  heights  a  less 
extensive  but  thoroughly  satisfying  view  in  its  unity  and  arrangement  is 
found.  Looking  northward,  Eastport,  with  its  huge  water  tower  high 
above  it,  slopes  gracefully  to  the  bay;  beyond  it  the  islands,  Deer, 
Indian,  and  Cherry,  with  the  Canadian  waters  and  mountains  stretching 
flirther  away.  On  the  right,  Campobello.  On  the  left,  Cobscook  Bay 
leads  the  eye  behind  Ssw.ird  Neck  or  North  Lubec,  and  meanders  for 

24 


^Mn 


y:,  merry  waters, 
jeni  supertlnoiis 


.*!Io  also  touches 
rnational  steam- 
ami   altogether 
mi  smokes  and 
from  the  fish- 
perspective,  it 
laracters,  would 
ss  Wilkins. 
jm  Eastport  in 
augmented  l)y 
er  which  East- 
s  in  the  town, 
tertained. 
cal  and  entirely 
heights  a  less 
arrangement  is 
ter  tower  high 
islands.   Deer, 
lins  stretching 
Cobscook  Hay 
meanders  for 


many  a  mile  ami  many  a  reach  to  the  towns  of  Pembroke,  Dennysville, 
and  Whiting.  Small  craft  can  penetrate  for  eighteen  miles  inland,  north, 
west,  or  south,  among  curious  intricacies  of  coast  line. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  and  instructive  excursions  from  Lubec  is 
by  carriage  to  West  Quoddy  Light,  the  most  eastern  in  the  States,  sur- 
rounded by  magnificent  coast  scenery  and  surf  effects.  W'estward 
some  eighteen  miles  lies  Cutler,  with  its  summer  colony.  Northward, 
by  the  bridge  spanning  a  tiny  inlet,  or  by  the  ferry-boats.  North  Lubec 
is  reached,  notably  a  summer  camp-ground,  and  site  of  the  Ne-mat-ta- 
no  Hotel,  the  property  of  the  New  England  Young  Men's  Christian 
Associations  and  North  Lubec  Land  Improvement  Company,  —  an  ideal 
sjjot  for  its  purpose,  imder  the  fostering  care  of  a  Christian  manage- 
ment. 

PEMBROKE,  PERRY,  DENNYSVILLE. 

On  the  mainland,  north  of  Cobscook  Bay,  reached  by  its  penetrating 
waters  ami  the  small  steamers  that  follow  it  as  well  as  by  road  from  East- 
port  and  the  towns  of  the  St.  Croix  River,  lay  the  peaceful  and  contented 
villages  above  named ;  the  former  being  largest  of  the  trio.  It  is 
here  one  should  wander  when  desiring  perfect  quiet  and  immunity  from 
social  excitement.  The  delightful  mingling  of  pastcral  and  maritime 
occupations,  in  their  appropriate  and  natural  settings  furnishes  a  sufficient 
amusement  for  the  idler,  to  which  may  be  added  the  same  host  of 
attractions  before   mentioned  that  offer  themselves. 

These  towns  are  convenient  to  the  beautiful  roads  that  follow  the  St. 
Croix,  or  penetrate  to  the  woodsy  shored  lakes,  Meddybemps,  Magur- 
rewok,  Pennamaquan,  and  others  of  Indian  tradition ;  convenient  also 
to  the  network  of  bays  and  creeks,  through  which  one  may  float  or  sail 
with  the  favoring  tides.  Life  among  them  is  primitive  and  simple  ;  the 
cost  of  a  summer  outing,  therefore,  small. 


as 


■■  i.»i.-lL  »A.-^Jii.d^m.t^-..^«  V,  Ma.-aM.)u.^^f^^^ -^^-^^ 


;i' 


H' 


^RANdNANXN' 


ALkoss  THK  i;av-ci.uis  ok  manan- 

S  A  I. INK    TVl'KS. 


IKK  tinto  a  might)-  fortress  is  Craiid 
Manan  !  its  inviilncraljle  walls  looming 
purple  in  the  distance.  A  name  to  con- 
jure with,  a  spot  fit  for  deeds  of  chivalry 
antl  daring,  a  challenge  to  the  painter's 
l)rush,  an  invitation  to  the  naturalist,  and 
to  the  worn  and  jaded  body  a  haven  of 
rest,  home  of  the  eagle  and  the  gull,  fog 
factory  for  all  Fundy  and  Ivistern  Maine, 
playground  for  nature's  moods,  unspoiled 
l)y  the  conventions  of  modern  summer 
resorts,  this  remarkable  island  demands 
attention. 

Steamer  "  Flushing  "  lies  at  Kastport 
on  arrival  of  anti  connecting  with  the 
International  steamers,  and  in  a  short 
hour  and  a  half  lands  passengers  at  Flagg's 
Cove. 

The  trip  is  sure  to  arouse  the  enthu- 
siasm of  the  most  stolid,  every  mile  of 
approach  revealing  fresh  details  of  the 
stupendous  cliffs  that  botmd  its  whole 
northern  side.  The  gray  sails  of  the  fish- 
ing fleets  stand  forth  in  strong  relief 
against  its  sombre  mass,  and  great  clouds  of  spotless  gulls  swirl  and  float 
above  its  inaccessible  eyries.  Perchance  you  may  see  the  Indians  who 
dwell  on  Manan,  |)erforniing  their  ingenious  feat  of  shooting  porpoises 
from  their  birch  canoes,  as  unconscious  of  danger  as  the  gulls  dancing 
on  the  wave  near  l)y  ! 

26 


ii. 


tJf^^iUamtatUtiM 


N- 


OK  MANAN- 


ortress     is     (Jrand 

1)1l'    walls    hjoming 

A  name  to  con- 

•  deeds  of  chivalry 

e    to  the  painter's 

the  naturalist,  and 

i  body  a  haven  of 

■  and  the  gull,  fog 

ind  Kastern  Maine. 

moods,  imspoiled 

modern   summer 

le  island    demands 

"  lies  at  Eastport 

nnecting  with    the 

and    in   a   short 

issengers  at  Flagg's 

arouse  the  enthu- 
lid,  every  mile  of 
:sh   details   of  the 

bound  its  whole 
ay  sails  of  the  fish- 
I  in  strong  relief 
,nills  swirl  and  float 
e  the  Indians  who 
shooting  porpoises 
5  the  gulls  dancing 


jsan  'iTm'.^-»:«i.-  1 


-poUPojt  Si« 


^Ji.' 


A  few  little  grt)Ups  of  silvery  gray  huts,  built  by  daimtiess  fishermen, 
maj-  be  seen  clinging  to  the  bits  of  pebbly  slKJ'e  that  here  anti  there 
border  some  indenting  cove,  settlements  full  of  picturesciueness,  and  — 
ancient  and  fish-like  smells.  Al)out  midway  of  the  north  shore  is  Indian 
Head,  the  highest  point  on  the  island,  and  near  it  the  curious  little  Dark 
Harljor,  separated  by  a  sand  bar  or  peblily  dike  from  tiie  ocean,  which 
rushes  in  through  a  narrow  sluiceway,  furnishing  a  natural  traj)  from 
which  the  fisiiermen  take  vast  (juantities  of  herring.  Money  Cove,  a 
little  farther  west,  is  another  of  the  traditional  haunts  of  Kidd  ;  poor 
Captain  Kidd,  he  did  not  believe  in  |)Utting  his  wealth  all  in  one  bank  ! 
On  passing  the  fog  station,  wliich  stands  !;>  ar  a  snug  farm  or  two 
adjoining  the  jagged  bulwarks  of 

Northern  Head,  whose  sliadow  •         '.  ..         -^ 

actually  crosses  the  deck  as  we 
run  close  to  shore,  IJishoj)  Rock 
stands  forth   prominently  from 
the  cliff,  and  just  beyond  lie  the 
ugly  reefs  of  Pemberlon  Point, 
named   after   the   noble  vessel 
that  was  driven  to  its  doom  here  , 
on  a  l)itter   January  night.     A ' 
moment  later  and  a  great  wall  —- 
of  vertical  cliffs  bursts  on  the 
astonished  beholder  ;  these  (the 
"  Seven  Days'  Work"  they  are 
called)  give  the  first  real  glimpse 

of  Manan's  strongest  characteristics  ;  after  them,  the  Swallow  'I  ail  Heatl, 
which  we  round  on  coming  into  harbor,  seems  quite  insignificant. 

The  impretentious  hotel  here  offers  comfortable  entertainment,  its 
walls  hung  with  souvenirs  of  the  many  artists  who  have  frequented  tiie 
island  for  years  past,  its  one-time  mariner  proprietor  a  mine  of  informa- 
tion and  entertainment. 

It  is  not  easy  in  a  few  lines  to  mention  half  the  points  of  interest  to 
be  seen.  Suffice  it  to  say  no  one  should  fail  to  visit  the  stupendous 
basalt  cliffs  of  Southern  Head,  which  is  reached  by  a  three-hour  sail  or 
drive  and  a  few  minutes'  walk.  Better  yet,  follow  the  entire  shore  from 
Southern  to  Northern  Head,  with  its  constant  surprises.  The  dense 
woodland  landscapes  in  the  interior  of  the  island,  over  which  glimpses 
of  distant  shore  and  water  are  caught,  are  stimulative  and  suggestive  in 
the  highest  degree,  and  to  the  true  nature  lover  will  \no\c  one  of  the 
strongest  attractions. 

27 


^.  I 


( »nc  shoiikl  also  cultivate  the  lisiicniR'H.  saline  t\|.es„r  yivat  Kem.iiu- 
ness  and  (.li^inaiity,  men  wiiu  have  l.een  attracted  here  partlv  l.e(  aiise 
ol  tlK-  freedom  from  competition,  possii.ly  l.y  the  romantic  nature  of  the 
island  itself. 

I'he  liKhthouse-keepersof  theislan.l  are  men  whom  one  wishes  to 
know,  well  informed,  sagacious,  full  of  sea  yarns,  and  full  of  courtesy  as 
well.  The  one  at  Swallow  Tail  would  attract  attention  anvwhere  for  his 
splendid  i.l,ysi,iue  and  military  bearing.  Horses  are  a  rare  beast  on  the 
island,  and,  as  some  one  has  noted,  you  will  be  known  l.y  the  animal 
you  drive,  the  horse  serving  as  a  letter  of  introduction  wherever  vou  may 
go.  Potatoes  seem  to  be  about  the  only  vegetable  tliat  is  reasonably 
successlul.  which,  with  the  varied  species  of  fish,  constitutes  a  novel  and 
i.alatable  staple  on  the  bill  of  fare.  The  numerous  smaller  islan.ls  King 
south  and  east  have  become  noted  as  the  resort  of  .Audubon,  in  iiis  I'.ird- 
stuilies  of  North  .America. 


\ 

I 


29 


i 


^r* 


^^*^-^  :-^^„,a^^ 


iAAi 


--■.■ili|.-Hifr.r^^^i.%t-:v-.^-^a^.,p^.^.-^„- 


rcFirt  rrtlUffiTI 


WStsm 


THE  ST.  CROIX. 


^^^^^ 


ri'  rill.  sr.  (  koix  to  sr.  aniirkws- Kor.iiiNvrDN, 

(  AI.AIS,    ANII   ST.    MKI'HKN, 


^^ 

f%. 

--J 

^^ 

M 

^ 

Vri 

H  V  fc  J 

1 

^ 

^^>My^ 

^JF* 

</v^ 

E  have  alivady  foniid  so  imicli  in  this  (lt.'lt.'(lal)lL' 
rugiun,  it  would  seem  that  it  must  he  wcHnigh 
exhausted.  Far  from  it  I  St.  Croix  still  remains  ; 
rich  in  lore,  richer  still  in  (harm  of  landscape  and 
water-scape,  significant  as  the  water  boundary 
between  two  i^reat  powers. 

At  Eastport,  again,  one  steps  from  the  deck  of 
one  steamer  to  that  of  another,  well  known  in 
Massachusetts  waters,  the  "  Rose  Stamlish,"  of  the  Frontier  Steamboat 
Company.  The  course  lies  north  by  west  l)etween  the  Jiritish  islands, 
Indian  and  Deer,  on  which  is  a  consiilerable  settlement  of  remnants  of 
the  Quotldy  Indians,  opposed  by  Kendall  Head  and  Pleasant  Point  on 
our  mainland.  \  four-mile  run  brings  us  into  the  fair  estuary  of  St. 
Croix,  and  still  fairer  (Juoildy  Hay,  the  na/  Quoddy,  sweeping  twenty 
miles  into  the  north,  the  river  leading  the  eye  even  farther,  to  Oak  Hay. 

.'Vgainst  the  bold  mounds  of  the  Chamcooks  is  faintly  seen  a  spire 
or  two,  and  on  a  hill  still  higher  a  castle-like  building  which  grows  in 
prominence  and  detail  as  we  approach,  until  recognizable  as  a  summer 
hotel  of  fine  proportions  and  ample  size. 

It  is  the  AlgoiKpiin,  and  the  picturesciue  town  lying  at  its  feet,  with 
its  crumbling  wharves  and  tiny  lighthouse  basking  in  the  sunshine,  is,  as 
you  will  guess, 

*       * 
ST.   ANDREWS.  * 

A  sleepy  old  town  it  is,  (juaint  and  self-satisfied,  its  streets  laid  out 
with  distressing  regularity,  but  dotted  here  and  there  with  relics  of  the 
past,  suggestive  of  colonial  days  and  the  Royalists  who  founded  it.  One 
would  naturally  expect  much  of  interest,  historically,  in  this  little  town. 

30 


mmm 


■(iiiP^ 


»^;3ft-'^->?*f^,.  ♦■ 


NSTilN, 


in  this  (Iflfctable 
must  he  \vcllnij,'ii 
!n)ix  still  remains  ; 
1  of  lanilscapc  and 
'    water    l)()un<larv 

from  the  ileck  of 
r,  well  known  in 
rontier  Steamboat 
he  liritish  islands, 
nt  of  remnants  of 
Pleasant  Point  on 
air  estuary  of  St. 
,  sweeping  twenty 
her,  to  Oak  Hay. 
lintly  seen  a  spire 
ng  which  grows  in 
'.able  as  a  summer 

ng  at  its  feet,  with 
lie  sunshine,  is,  as 


s  streets  laid  out 
with  relics  of  the 
founded  it.  One 
in  this  little  town. 


i,      .  T"^TJV  •     Joe  s  ri. 


So. 

JpbbinstonA 


P  ZLj^.Robbinsron*"""'"^^^ 


'II  M\,»}if^ii^ffH0m*mmmmmmmim<m 


•m 


, 


/ 


but  will  be  disappointed.  It  was  once  quite  a  slii])ping  port,  but  otiicr 
cities  seem  to  have  stolen  its  prestige  awa\'. 

Its  principal  stock  in  trade  at  present  is  its  marvellously  pure  and 
dry  atmosphere,  of  which  there  is  an  inexhaustible  supply  of  the  jjurest 
and  tlriest  kind.  Gen.  Greely  is  (|Uoted  as  ample  authority  in  this  ccm- 
nection  ;  his  reports  showing  that  curiously  enough,  small  areas,  at  the 
extreme  southwestern  and  northeastern  limits  of  our  coimtry,  possess  the 
most  jierfect  climatic-  conditions,  a  mean  summer  temperature  of  6.S", 
and  an  atmosphere  remarkably  free  from  humidity.  This  is  quite  note- 
worthy, considering  the  close  proximity  of  Grand  Manan  and  its 
reputation. 

Another  and  eciually  desirable  article  is  its  pictures(iue  environment. 
—  I'assamaquoddy,  beautiful  Chamcook  Mountains,  and  no  less  beautiful 
Chamcook  Lake,  among  the  mountains  and  flowing  into  the  bay  by  a 
short  stream. 

It  is  characteristic  of  American  enterprise  that  the  St.  Andrews  Land 
Company  should  have  selected  this  particular  place  for  improvement, 
should  have  erected  on  one  of  the  four  hills  mentioned  previously  as 
view  points  of  this  region  the  splendid  hotel,  known  everywhere  as  "  The 
Alg6n<iuin,"  a  house  of  perfect  appointments,  and  having  that  enviable 
reputation  of  st/cicss,  five  seasons  of  "  ten  strikes  "  as  a  hotel  man 
expressed  it ! 

Good  roads  reach  inland,  fine  bathing  near  at  hand,  fresh  and  salt 
water  recreations,  mountain  climbing,  and  e%'ery  possible  out-of-door 
sport  are  the  fitting  accompaniment  of  this  ideal  resort.  "  Immunity 
from  hay  fever  "  is  the  legend,  par  excellence,  inscribed  on  its  card  ! 

From  St.  Andrews,  running  out  under  the  striking  headland  of  Joe's 
Point,  another  excellent  observation  point  of  the  town,  the  steamer 
immediately  enters  St.  Croix  River  proper,  the  little  town  of  Robbinston 
on  the  opposite  bank  laying  snugly  and  comfortably  under  the  protect- 
ing shoulder  of  an  evergreen  ridge,  which  runs  out  and  abruptly  drops 
into  the  river  just  above. 

ROBBINSTON. 

Not  a  village  of  any  great  importance,  nor  with  any  especial  historic 
significance  that  we  could  discover,  but  certainly  a  very  attractive  and 
typically  American  town,  with  a  few  of  the  omnipresent  sardine  factories, 
and  a  sort  of  hands-in-the-pockets  air,  that  is  very  inviting  to  one  who 
seeks  to  "loaf  and  invite  his  soul,"  Whitman  would  say.  There  is  all 
the  fishing  one  could  ask  for,  of  every  kind,  salt  or  fresh,  with  some  of  the 

31 


'I 


i  i 


5*  .i.    ! 


wn  pn  I 


!T»  en 


m 


\Er, 


'm 


I    :4^ 


m-f-jk 


r-1-m-z 

~^-^i 


most  cxiiuisite  drives  along  the  river  and  inland  to  be  founil  anywhere 
in  the  region.  An  artist  is  naturally  a  little  tastiflioiis  in  matters 
pictures! |ue,  and  from  his  point  of  view  there  is  no  jilace  to  compare 
with  little  Rohbinston  from  which  to  study  the  varying  moods  of  the 
Chamcook  range  or  the  dreamy  perspectives  of  the  river.  Certain  it  is, 
many  have  summered  there,  and  a  more  enthusiastic  lot  of  missionaries 
for  it  could  scarce  be  found  1 

Rohbinston  may  |)roperly  claim  as  its  own  the  intensely  interesting 
annals  belonging  to  this  immediate  vicinity,  of  which  Doucet's  or 
"Dochet's  "  Island,  three  miles  above,  is  the  i'/>ifi>mt\ 

It  is  just  here  that  Acadia,  by  the  hands  of  Champlain  and  the 
Sieur  de  Monts,  began  its  history,  when  in  1604  they  planted  a  colony 
and  a  garden,  on  this  speck  of  dirt.  In  sjiite  of  Gen.  Greely's  asser- 
tions as  to  climate,  the  garden  proved  a  failure,  winter  came,  and  with  it 
suffering  and  absolute  isolation  from  the  land,  so  near  at  hand  ;  sickness 
and  death  did  their  work,  and  spring  saw  the  remnants  fleeing  to  Port 
Royal. 

Champlain's  faithful 
pen  picture  did  not  pre- 
vent acontinuous  bound- 
ary dispute,  for  not  till 
1 796  did  a  commission 
discover  the  "  Isle  of 
Champlain,"  the  St. 
Croix  of  the  discoverers, 
and  the  true  boundary 
of  Acadia.  It  is  in- 
teresting, then,  as  we 
steam  up  river  to  look 
upon  the  little  island  mid-stream,  with  its  history  fresh  in  the  mind,  its 
sole  resident,  the  lightkeei)er,  in  his  white  tower,  with  his  cow,  his  garden 
(which  yields),  and  the  miniature  forest  at  its  edge. 

This  may  be  a  proper  time  to  mention  briefly  a  few  of  the  names 
that  will  figure  in  our  narrative,  and  serve  to  keep  in  mind  in  outline  the 
later  history  of  Acadia.  Next,  then,  is  Fort  Royal,  with  La  Tour's  set- 
tlement at  St.  John  across  the  bay,  Fort  Cumberland  near  Amherst, 
Windsor  in  mid  Nova  Scotia,  and  Louisburg  in  Cape  Breton. 

Beyond  Doucet's  Island,  the  stupendous  summit  of  Devil's  Head, 
bristling  with  lance-like  forests,  exchanges  frowns  with  Chamcook  hills 
opposite,  and  marks  with  decision  a  sharp  turn  in  the  river,  as  well  as 
the  entrance   of  fair  Oak  Bay.     It  is  the  formation  of  the  waters  just 


i 


Zi 


Kii8i«i*a^gaisr-r».ii'  virm-titt 


Hsaa 


inf. 


named  into  the  semblance  of  a  cross  that  gave  to  the  French  a  name  for 
the  river,  'rnrning  the  corner  under  the  green-hlack  head,  the  course 
changes  to  northwest,  and  the  shores  narrow  very  perceptibly.  'l"he 
lighthouses  of  Spruce  and  Nfark  Points,  set  with  their  forest  background, 
resemble  playthings,  and  recall  the  "  Noah's  ark  "  period  of  our  baby- 
hood I 

Uald  Head,  on  the  Canadian  side,  overlooks  some  ])retty  farms  and  a 
tiny  hamlet  called  '•  'The  Ledge." 

A  |)astoral  and  thrifty-looking  landscape  bortlers  the  stream  as  we 
api)roach  Calais  and  St.  .Stephen,  where  every  suggestion  is  of  lumber. 
luml)ering.  and  imnufactures,  which  will  explain  very  adequately  the 
existence  of  such  a  considerable  city.  ' 


m 


CALAIS. 

Ciood  hotels,  attractive  streets,  fine  churches,  and  a  gem  of  a  library 
make  Calais,  with  its  activity  and  eight  thousand  residents,  the  most  im- 
portant town  on  our  eastern  boundary,  the  "  border  city,"  if  yon  please, 
of  the  Pine  Tree  State.  Its  village  green  or  common  is  one  of  the  most 
charming  we  have  ever  seen,  lined  with  conservative  and  comfortable- 
looking  mansions  of  a  good  old  age.  Howells  might  find  here  a  bit  of 
his  .\ltruria,  for  Calais  and  St.  Stephen  refused  to  ([uarrel  during  the 
international  disputes  of  1812,  so  closely  are  their  social  and  commercial 
interests  united.  To  be  sure,  a  customs  official  is  stationed  at  either  end 
of  the  covered  bridge  between  them,  and  sonwtimcs  looks  into  your  grip, 
but  the  many  little  smuggling  incidents  are  regarded  more  a.,  a  joke  than 
an  offence  evidently  !  As  Calais  is  the  head  of  navigation,  so  is  it  the 
beginning  of  a  water-power  on  the  St.  Croix.  At  Milltown,  just  above, 
extensive  lumber  mills  fill  the  air  with  the  sound  of  buzzing  saws,  the 
savory  odor  of  green  sawdust,  and  turn  out  finished  lumber  by  the 
million  feet,  the  raw  material  coming  from  the  Grand  Lake  region  beyond 
Princeton,  to  which  point  extends  a  railway,  and  the  unmeasured  forests 
along  the  rivers  tril)Utary  to  it  and  the  St.  Croix.  There  is  still  good 
fishing  among  these  tributary  waters  of  the  Grand  or  "  Schoodic  "  Lakes, 
the  lower  or  "  big  "  lake  containing  pickerel,  which  of  course  have  driven 
out  finer  species,  and  the  upper  or  Grand  Lake  and  its  stream,  brook 
and  lake  trout  and  land-locked  salmon.  It  is  of  the  smaller  lakes  north- 
westerly that  best  results  may  be  expected,  for  which  Indian  guides  a 
plenty  are  available  at  Princeton.  Edward  A.  Samuels  may  be  quoted 
as  having  had  "  great  fishing  "  in  these  waters. 

Aside  from  the  lumber  industry,  quarrying  is  of  some  little  import- 

34    •    ' 


-■  l'"rcncli  a  name  tor 
(  k  head,  the  course 
,■  perceptibly.  The 
r  forest  l)a(kgroiin(l. 
])erio(l  of  our  haby- 

.'  pretty  farms  and  a 

rs  the  stream  as  we 
sstion  is  of  huiil)er. 
ery  adequately  the 


1  a  gem  of  a  library 
idents,  the  most  im- 
:ity,"  if  you  please, 
1  is  one  of  the  most 
e  and  comfortable- 
it  find  here  a  bit  of 
quarrel  during  the 
ial  and  commercial 
tioned  at  either  end 
ooks  into  your  grip, 
iiore  a.i  a  joke  than 
igation,  so  is  it  the 
:illto\vn,  just  above, 
f  buzzing  saws,  the 
led  lumber  by  the 
[^ake  region  bejond 
unmeasured  forests 
There  is  still  good 
'  Schoodic  "  Lakes, 
"  course  have  driven 
1  its  stream,  brook 
smaller  lakes  north- 
ch  Indian  guides  a 
lels  may  be  quoted 

some  little  import- 


ance,  the  red  granite  of  Red  Ileach,  which  we  passed  near  Doucet's 
Island,  anil  of  the  St.  (leorge  quarries  being  quarried  by  companies 
located  here. 

ST.  STEPHEN. 

What  is  said  of  Calais  is  also  ])ra(  ticauy  true  of  this  border  town  of 
New  linmswick,  with  the  exception  of  its  pojiulation,  which  is  some 
three  or  lour  thousand  less.  In  addition  it  has  a  large  cotton  mill,  and 
also  railway  connection  with  the  outer  world  ;  with  St.  John  by  the  Shore 
line,  with  the  vast  areas  of  Northern  Maine  and  New  IWunswick  and 
Quebec  by  the  Canadian  Pacific,  St.  .Andrews  to  the  south,  as  well.  Il 
would  be  a  (juite  uni)ar(lonal)le  error  to  leave  this  corner  of  New  llruns- 
wick  without  a  glimpse  of  the  wild  beauties  of 

LAKE  UTOPIA  AND  FALLS  OF  ST.  GEORGE, 

which  lie  some  thirty  miles  eastwaril.  This  lake  is  especially  rich  in  its 
color  variety,  the  bold  ledges  of  red  granite  throwing  up  huge  towers 
from  the  forests,  or  reflecting  themselves  in  the  dancing  waters  below, 
proilucing  effects  that  are  uni(iue  and  striking  in  the  extreme.  The  lake 
flows  through  a  small  outlet  into  the  river  Magaguadavic,  near  the  station 
of  same  name  on  the  New  Brunswick  Railway,  and  tUlwiu-liis  into 
Passamatpioddy  at  St,  CJeorge,  rushing  between  narrow  walls,  forming  a 
cascade  of  great  splendor.  The  Magaguadavic,  also  reached  by  small 
steamers  and  boats  from  Eastport  and  vicinity,  has  been  of  late  a  favor- 
ite excursion  of  its  denizens.  For  more  than  a  century  after  the  Doucet's 
Island  incitlent  this  stream  was  accepted  as  the  St.  Croix,  and  christened 
such  with  the  crucifix  of  the  Jesuit  explorers,  until  the  discovery  as 
mentioned  by  the  boundary  commission  of  conclusive  evidence  to  the 
contrary.  The  pretty  town  of  St.  Cleorge,  of  some  four  thousand  popu- 
lation, just  here,  is  engaged  in  lumbering  and  tpiarrying,  and  proves  a 
convenient  stopping  place  for  fishermen  of  Lake  Utopia,  where  good 
trout  fishing  is  assured. 

Returning  again  to  our  starting  point  at  Eastport,  let  us  continue 
onward  again  toward  that  Ultima  Thule  of  our  travels, 

"EASTWARD   AGAIN." 

On  steaming  out  from  Eastport  between   East   Quoddy   or   Head 
Harbor  Light  on  one  hand,  and  Deer  Island  on  the  other,  one  is  intro- 

35 


'^-^.':  ■■^''  f" 


«'4T«Y  m 


(lured  forinally  to  the  Hay  ot'  Fiiiuly,  that  irri'itrcssiUlc  luxly  of  water  lliat 
Ih  at  OIK  e  the  terror  an<l  ileliKlu  of  tlie  lieliolder.  Of  course,  every  one 
who  has  Icmied  his  j^eograiihy  lesson  knows  about  tlie  "tides  of  Kinidy," 
tl\at  (  hnili  thirty  Icet  more  or  less  lwi(  e  a  day  nearly  the  year  rounil, 
and  create  or  wipe  out  whole  river  systems  with  each  ebb  and  (low.  Its 
impetuous  currents  ( rowd  in  by  F-ast  (Juoddy  as  ti)ounii  hunj;ry  for  the 
land  whose  estuaries  and  streams  it  fills  so  nobly.  The  view  from  this 
point  takes  on  an  entirely  new  and  (  haracteristic  llavor  ;  ac  ross  the 
yellow-green  and  llashing  expanse  of  the  l»ayloom  Grand  Manan  and  the 
wooded,  savage-looking  islands,  the  "Wolves";  to  landward.  Passama- 
(|uoddy's  gateway  and  hundred  islets  ;  while  New  Hrunswick's  shores  lift 
their  jagged  and  ruddy  headlands  against  an  everchanging  and  undulat- 
mg  wall  of  mountain  blue. 

It  is  just  here  that  the  key  is  found  to  the  peculiar  geological  forma- 
tions of  lower  i\'ew  Hrunswic  k. 

From  Chamcook  Mountains  at  St.  Andrews  to  a  point  beyond  St. 
John  extenil  the  rugged  walls  of  what  geologist^  assure  us  is  a  spur  of 
the  .Alleghany  Mountains,  of  distinctly  volcanic  character,  ctmiposed  of 
trap  rock,  with  feldspar,  basalt,  porphyry,  greenstone  trap  and  the  like, 
whose  jjractical  value  is  demonstrated  in  the  numerous  granite  and 
gypsum  <|uarries.  A  glance  at  the  map  shows  this  same  marked  north- 
easterly trend  in  all  the  maritime  ranges,  —  the  <:liffs  of  Manan,  North 
and  South  Mountains,  and  Cobequid's  range  in  Nova  Scotia,  the  grand 
hills  of  Cape  Breton,  and  the  Northern  New  Hrunswick  mountains  as 
well,  that  end  so  strikingly  at  Bay  Chaleur. 

The  variety  of  color  along  the  entire  shore  of  Fundy  is  particularly 
noticeable,  al)ounding  in  deep  reds  contrasted  with  purplish  grays,  with 
here  and  there  a  splash  of  white,  where  the  veins  of  gypsum  crop  out. 
After  passing  Point  Lepreaux  and  its  banded  lighthouse,  flanked  by 
Mace's  Bay  and  Dipper  Harbor,  comes  the  first  intimation  of  our 
approach  to  St.  John,  when  Partridge  Island,  which  guards  the  harbor, 
stands  out  from  the  ha/y  distance,  almost  immediately  followed  by  the 
clustering  houses  of  Carleton,  with  the  ancient  martello  tower  high  above 
it,  relieved  against  the  sky  ;  the  long  gray  wall  of  the  breakwater  extend- 
ing far  out  from  the  shore  ;  and  finally,  the  picturesque  beacon  in  mid- 
harbor  gleaming  white  before  the  city  walls.  Every  one  must  be  struck 
by  the  extremely  effective  grouping  of  the  city  of  St.  John,  its  Gothic 
spires  clustered  on  the  hilltop,  and  solid  commercial  buildings  sloping 
toward  the  water,  where  a  perfect  forest  of  shipping  is  gathered  from 
every  corner  of  the  earth ;  the  mystery  is,  how  so  many  vessels  can  be 
accommodated  in  so  small  a  harbor. 

37 


J- 


'I     ' 


THE    RIVER   VOYAGE -FREnERICTON- 
(iRAND    KAI.I.S- UPPER    RIVER. 

F  New  Brunswick,  the  first  city,  of  Canadian  shipown- 
ing  cities  also  the  first,  with  a  population  of  some 
fifty  thousand,  and  a  history  dating  from  the  early 
seventeenth  century,  St.  John  is  not  distinctively 
English  or,  intleed,  Canadian,  in  its  characteristics 
or  outward  ai)pearance.  It  is  even  denominated  the 
American  city,  in  contrast  with  Halifax,  which  is  quite  English  ;  but  for 
all  that,  the  visitor  from  "  the  States  "  finds  much  that  i;.  new  to  him  in 
the  minor  details  of  life,  perhaps  nowhere  so  markedly  as  in  the  uni- 
versal courtesy  of  its  people,  of  whatever  class,  and  the  good  quality  of  the 
language  one  hears  everywhere,  not  alone  here,  but  throughout  English- 
speaking  Canada. 

There  are  a  great  number  of  hotels  in  St.  John,  —  a  fact  which  is  true 
of  nearly  all  Provincial  cities.  There  are  also  among  them  some  very 
comfortable  ones. 

Your  "  Appleton  "  or  "Ticknor  '  will  direct  you,  first  of  all,  very 
properly,  to  see  tho  falls  and  graceful  suspension  bridge,  which  are  the 
great  "  show  pieces"  of  the  town.  St.  John  can  boast  of  at  least  one 
novelty  without  duplicate,  —  the  "reversible  fall,"  as  it  has  been  happily 
called,  — a  phenomenon  for  which  the  Fundy  tides  are  responsible. 
Novel,  indeed,  it  is  to  behold  a  vast  torrent  of  water  flowing  through  a 


'  Canaiiian  shipown- 
popiilation  of  some 
ting  from  the  early 
is  not  distinctively 
n  its  characteristics 
en  denominated  the 
ite  English  ;  l)iU  for 
liat  io  new  to  him  in 
:edly  as  in  the  uni- 
s  good  quality  of  the 
:hroughout  English- 

a  fact  which  is  true 
)ng  them  some  very 

u,  first  of  all,  very 
idge,  which  are  the 
jast  of  at  least  one 
it  has  been  happily 
es  are  responsible, 
r  flowing  through  a 


narrow,  rocky  passage  toward  the  sea ;  halt  an  hour  later  a  i)lacid  stream 
upon  which  laden  vessels  come  and  go  ;  yet  another  half-hour  tiie  same 
turbulent  waters  again,  but  rushing  in  the  opposite  direction  !  Wonder- 
fully fascinating  is  this  tidal  freak,  as  the  writer  can  testify  after  having 
spent  a  half-day  studying  its  moods  and  caprices.  Here,  in  the  winter  of 
1S93,  was  witnessed  one  of  those  tragedies  more  dramatic  than  fiction. 
The  ferryman,  who  for  years  had  safely  piloted  human  freight,  who  half 
a  score  of  times  risked  his  own  life  to  rescue  othci,^  from  this  treacherous 
maelstrom,  in  sleet  and  storm  himself  was  swept  heljjlessly  into  eternity. 
From  the  banks  of  the  river  on  the  Carleton  siile,  near  the  bridge, 
and  a  hundred  feet  and  more  in  air,  is  obtained  a  striking  and  effective 
view  of  the  distant  city,  the  scores  of  lumber  mills  and  yards  that  line 
the  river  just  here,  and  mid-stream  the  island  where  that  plucky  bit  of 
femininity,   Madame  La  Tour,  held  the   fort  of  her   lord  against    the 


assaulting  forces  of  D'Aulnay.  Those  were  stormy  times,  indeed  !  when 
feudalism,  transplanted  to  the  wilds  of  the  New  World,  mingled  with  the 
savage  strife  of  the  red  man,  St.  John's  architecture  is  well  worthy  of 
attention,  notably  the  fine  residential  portion  about  King's  Square,  and 
the  new  banks  of  New  Brunswick  and  Montreal,  City  Hall  and  Custom 
House,  the  latter,  with  fully  a  third  of  the  city,  built  since  the  great  fire 

of  1877. 

The  English  Church  service  is  finely  rendered  in  several  churches, 
especially  so  at  beautiful  Trinity,  while  the  chanting  at  the  "  Old  Stone 
Church "    at   head  of    Germain    Street    is    quite    exceptional.     The 

39 


•at'itdPtfTt' 


r 


'#^ 


many  hills  about  the  city  afford  fine  vantage  points  for  views.  From 
Fort  Howe  on  Portland  Heights  is  altogether  the  most  striking  one,  the 
harbor  and  city,  the  grand  expanse  of  Fundy,  as  well  as  the  charming 
landscape  lying  back  of  the  ridge.  From  the  ancient  martello  .ower  in 
Carleton  also  a  glorious  view  is  unfolded  of  the  bay,  the  coast  east  and 
west,  as  also  the  environs  of  St.  John. 

The  business  interests  centre  around  the  shipping,  as  one  might 
imagine  ;  lumber  in  vast  quantities  from  the  river  country  northward  is 
exported,  lime  is  also  an  important  item  when  trade  relations  are  favora- 
ble with  the  States.  Naturally  this  is  a  trade  centre  for  all  Central  and 
Southern  New  Brunswick,  and  the  types  of  lumberman,  Indian,  farmer, 
or  fisherman  that  one  often  meets  are  striking  and  picturesque  to  a  degree. 

Of  course  no  one  would  think  of  leaving  St.  John  without  first  taking 
the  charming  steamer  trip  to  Fredericton  up  the  river,  nor  any  less  the 


trossach-like  waters  of  Kennebecasis  River.  When  one  does  leave,  there 
is  always  the  choice  of  following  the  Intercolonial  Railway  to  the  eastern 
Provinces,  Prince  Edward  or  Cape  Breton  Islands,  or  of  crossing  the 
bay  to  the  land  of  Evangeline,  Annapolis  Valley,  and  Halifax  by  the  Bay 
of  Fundy  Line. 

RIVER   ST.  JOHN. 

While  very  charming  and  soothing  in  its  pastoral  meanderings,  it  is 
a  trifle  far  fetched  to  call  this  stream  the  "Rhine  of  America."  To  say 
that  a  river  has  an  individuality  and  charm  all  its  own  is  the  greatest 
praise  one  can  bestow.  It  seems  that  this  can  be  said  very  truthfully,  in 
that  the  St.  John  cannot  be  compared  to  any  other.  If  the  valley  of  the 
Annapolis  is  the  "garden  of  Nova  Scotia,"  then  is  this  also  the  garden  of 
New  Brunswick,  and  a  very  large  garden  at  that. 


40 


ssswf<n!W!Ksw«-  ~«i^iR{--  ■■'r^mgsseftffimm^m^gsmmmmem^s^^smBsm^imsmma 


i  for  views.  From 
ist  striking  one,  the 
?11  as  the  charming 
It  martello  .ower  in 
the  coast  east  and 

)ing,  as  one  might 
)untry  northward  is 
eiations  are  favora- 
for  ail  Central  and 
lan,  Indian,  farmer, 
iresque  to  a  degree, 
without  first  taking 
?r,  nor  any  less  the 


e  does  leave,  there 
way  to  the  eastern 
)r  of  crossing  the 
■lalifax  by  the  Bay 


meanderings,  it  is 
merica."  To  say 
i^n  is  the  greatest 
very  truthfully,  in 
f  the  valley  of  the 
also  the  garden  of 


Leaving  the  quaint  landing  at  Indiantown,  just  above  the  bridge  and 
falls,  the  comfortable  steamers  of  the  Star  Line  push  out  and  against  a 
strong  tide,  under  the  towering  cliffs  that  flank  the  narrow  passage,  past 
the  gray  lime-kilns  and  lumber  mills  that  cling  to  their  sides,  sharply 
rounding  a  jutting  ledge,  then  turning  again  till  her  course  lies  about 
northwest.  Nature  has  been  very  accommodating  to  her  dependents 
hereabouts,  where  the  waste  from  the  sawmill  can  be  immediately  utilized 
in  heating  the  kiln,  the  kiln  in  turn  receive  its  raw  material  from  the 
gypsum  cliffs  overshadowing  it,  and  immediately  transfer  the  finished 
product  to  the  hold  of  the  schooner  which  lies  alongside,  and  is  swept 
out  by  the  tide  to  an  open  sea  and  the  ports  of  the  world. 

Having  shaped  our  course  northwest,  and  left  behind  the  narrow 
gateway  to  the  Grand  Bay,  which  opens  here,  and  leads  the  delighted 
eye  for  ten  miles  over  its  smiling  surface,  to  rolling  hills  and  fair  farms, 
which  line  the  banks  here  on  either  side.  On  the  immediate  right- 
hand  shore,  standing  defiantly  at  the  entrance  to  Kennebecasis  Bay,  is 
Boar's  Head,  its  bristly  summit  justifying  ivs  name.  Geologists  explain 
that  the  river  in  prehistoric  times  founa  the  sea  by  two  channels, 
one  through  the  South  Bay  over  on  our  left,  the  other,  via  Kennebecasis' 
loveb'  reach  and  the  valley  between  St.  John  City  and  Portland's  Heights. 
The  last-mentioned  bay,  as  described  elsewhere,  is  in  picturesque  charms 
fully  up  to  the  promise  it  gives  as  seen  from  the  steamer's  deck. 

The  river  craft  encountered  on  this  tidal  lake  upon  which  we  are 
sailing  is  entertaining  and  even  amusing  to  a  great  degree,  for  it  is  not 
uncommon  to  meet  or  pass  here  a  half-dozen  or  more  schooners  of 
varied  model  and  rig,  some  in  tow  and  some  under  sail ;  old  relics  in 
the  way  of  steamers  wheezily  tugging  long  rafts  of  logs  from  the  upper 
river,  with  now  and  then  a  hay  barge  lazily  sauntering  down  with  the 
tide,  and  half  a  score  of  tugs  and  pleasure  craft  that  are  always  in 
attendance  upon  such  a  nautical  assembly  as  we  have  mentioned. 

The  Star  Line  thoughtfully  issues  a  very  good  outline  map  of  the 
river  from  its  mouth  to  Fredericton.  With  this  in  hand  one  can  locate 
every  detail  of  the  picturesque  trip.  The  names  are  more  interesting 
and  surprising  than  those  of  a  directory.  The  every-day  names  of  the 
farmers  or  early  settlers  are  offset  by  the  wild  Indian  nomenclature, 
furnishing  such  morsels  for  ihe  tongue  as  Washademoak,  Musquash, 
Nashwaak,  Otnabog,  and  others. 

We  find  on  our  map  as  souvenirs  of  a  former  visit  to  Fredericton  and 
the  voyage  thereto  many  shorthand  notes  and  hieroglyphics  which  we 
venture  to  interpret  for  the  reader.  At  the  head  of  the  Grand  Bay  is 
a  most  attractive  little  hotel  and  cluster  of  cottages,  known  as  Belyea's, 

41 


miitimimmmtSmM 


iti 


a  resort  of  many  St.  John  people,  and,  we  are  told,  a  very  comfortable 
nook  for  a  summer  rest.  It  is  just  here  the  river  makes  another  turn 
and  a  great  sweep  directly  northeast,  revealing  the  "Long  Reach,"  with 
its  new  variety  of  scene,  bold  hills  and  golden  marshes  alternatin;,'.  The 
tiny  white  lighthouse  at  lielyea's  places  itself,  with  almost  conscious 
effect,  very  sketchably  in  front  of  the  noble  "  Devil's  Back,  '  though  why 
the  devil  got  his  back  up  so  high  as  four  hunilred  and  fifty  feet  is  not 
explained  !  That  dark  person  is  resjionsible  for  some  very  striking  scenic 
effects,  here  as  elsewhere. 

The  eight  landings  between  Kelyea's  and  Sterret's  are  not  all  landings 
so  it  would  ap|)ear,  for  the  interesting  method  of  leaving  mails  or  passen- 
gers obviates  that  formality ;  here,  the  signal  from  steamer  calls  from 
the  shore  a  wherry  or  rowboat,  which  draws  uj)  by  the  slowing  steamer,  a 
folding  pair  of  steps  is  dropped,  the  transfer  is  made,  and  we  are  on  our 
way  in  a  moment.  This  is  only  one  of  many  primitive  and  quaint 
customs  met  with  all  the  way  of  the  journey.  Cireenwich  Hill  or  Pitts' 
Landing  is  another  spot  to  lure  a  saunterer.  Oak  Point,  with  its  "grassy 
island  "  floating  on  the  full  stream,  is  cjuite  characteristic  of  the  river. 
The  "  Mistake  "  is  best  explained  by  the  pilot  who  has  sailed  three 
miles  behind  its  marshy  point  only  to  retrace  his  course  again.  The 
glimpses  both  fore  and  aft,  at  this  point,  are  es|>ecially  pleasing,  not  to 
say  beautiful.  The  course  now  changes  to  north,  the  river  narrowing 
and  growing  more  and  more  tortuous,  threading  its  way  among  islands, 
and  bouniled  continuously  by  the  most  exquisite  hill  slopes,  whose 
generous  sides  are  spread  with  fertile  fields  of  vari-colored  produce,  the 
fruit  of  the  hajjpy  farmers  who  are  so  fortunate  as  to  possess  them.  The 
landscape  is  decidedly  English  in  flavor,  and  i)erhaps  justifies  the 
enthusiastic  native  in  his  highly  colored  comparisons. 

Long  Island,  just  above,  is  ty|)ical  of  all  the  islands  in  the  river,  a 
broad  intervale,  with  here  and  there  a  gray  barn  for  its  crops,  and  many 
a  graceful  elm,  so  suggestive  of  our  New  England  villages,  bordered  by 
luxurious  growths  of  willow,  birch,  and  alder,  whose  waving  branches  cast 
cool  reflections  below.  This  island  marks  the  entrance  to  the  Washa- 
ilemoak,  a  river  that  is  more  lake  than  river  for  thirty  miles  of  its 
course  ;  a  very  "  ducky  "  looking  spot  it  is,  which  guess  is  well  verified 
by  the  game  bags  that  come  out  of  it  in  the  fall.  After  tying  a  few 
knots  about  the  islands,  the  steamer  touches  at  Gagetown,  actually 
touches,  and  ties  up  at  this  lethargic  spot,  where  there  is 

"  Nothing  coining,  nothing  going, 
Locusts  grating,  one  cock  crowing, 
,      Few  things  moving  up  or  clown, 
All  things  drowsy — Drowsytown." 
42 


>i.- 


1,  a  very  comfortable 
makes  another  turn 
'Long  Reach,"  with 
es  alternatin  .5.  Thie 
h  ahiiost  conscious 
1  Back,  '  though  why 
and  fifty  feet  is  not 
.'  very  striking  scenic 

>  are  not  all  landings 
ing  mails  or  passen- 

steamer  calls  from 
e  slowing  steamer,  a 
;,  and  we  are  on  our 
rimitive  and  quaint 
enwich  Hill  or  Pitts' 
oint,  with  its  "grassy 
teristic  of  the  river, 
ho  has  sailed  three 
course  again.  The 
ially  pleasing,  not  to 
the  river  narrowing 
;  way  among  islands, 
!  hill  slopes,  whose 
olored  produce,  the 
possess  them.  The 
erhaps  justifies  the 
>ns. 

lands  in  the  river,  a 
its  crops,  and  many 
dllages,  bordered  by 
vaving  branches  cast 
ance  to  the  Washa- 

thirty  miles  of  its 
juess  is  well  verified 
.  After  tying  a  few 
Gagetown,  actually 
re  is 


%  i 


J^^ 


;^"i3''Jori]fJ.  ?yrtr. 


"-vmmam>- 


Oppositf  is  (Irimross  Island,  the  mouth  of  Grand  Lake,  which  stretches 
away  northward  for  forty  miles,  and  the  site  of  ancient  Jemseg.  Here, 
in  1640,  the  French  pioneers  built  their  fort,  which  the  English,  of 
course,  captureil  a  little  later,  andtossed  back  again  in  1670.  Under 
Villel)on  it  became  a  consideraljle  settlement,  the  capitrl,  indeed,  of 
Acadia ;  a  few  irregular  mounds,  only,  now  remain  to  keej)  alive  its 
ancient  name. 

The  character  of  the  land  here  is  like  all  that  lies  above  for  thirty 
miles,  —  flat,  productive,  and  rather  uninteresting  from  a  scenic  point  of 
view,  after  the  variety  and  contrast  of  the  lower  river.  Passing  Sheflield, 
Maugerville,  Oromocto,  and  Oromocto  River,  whose  upper  waters 
abound  in  trout,  the  lower  in  pickerel,  the  land  of  logs  is  reached,  and 
"  Glaziers,"  where  rafts  are  composed  from  the  great  booms  on  every 
hand,  and  towed  down  stream.  Here  one  sees  the  long- pointed  bayous 
or  "dug-outs,"  of  the  lumbermen,  the  raft  huts  and  curious  stern- 
wheelers  of  the  upper  river,  and  catches  refreshing  sniffs  of  the  odor 
from  new  lumber,  that  leaves  a  narrow  passage  only  for  the  steamer  as  it 
threads  its  way  and  brings  into  view  the  spires  of  lovely  Fredericton. 


■1. 


FREDERICTON. 

It  is  doubtful  if  in  all  the  Provinces  there  is  a  more  delightful  town 
than  Fredericton, —  city,  we  should  say.  The  impression  first  received  is 
abundantly  confirmed  by  closer  acquaintance.  Its  streets  are  beautiftiUy 
laid  out,  shaded  generously  by  the  American  elms  that  grow  so  prodi- 
gally all  through  the  valley,  its  public,  educational,  and  ecclesiastical 
buildings  are  numerous  and  especially  handsome.  Its  hotels  are  well- 
nigh  perfect ;  and  a  charming  environment  ot  natural  beauty  combined 
with  numerous  avenues  of  access  and  egress  make  it  in  all  ways  goodly 
to  look  upon. 

It  is  the  centre  of  a  vast  farming  country,  the  distributing  point  for 
great  lumber  tracts,  the  centre  of  numerous  rail  lines,  a  noted  cotton 
manufacturing  town,  and  the  seat  of  Provincial  government,  as  well  as 
normal  school,  university,  and  militia.  The  social  atmosphere  is  naturally 
of  a  high  order,  and  a  generally  progressiva  idea  seems  to  pervade  the 
residents.  ** 

Points  of  especial  note  are  the  New  Brunswick  University,  crowning 
the  hill  west  of  the  town,  and  commanding  a  matchless  panorama  of 
river  scenery  for  miles  in  three  directions;  the  village  of  Gibson,  a 
model  manufacturing  community,  founded  and  supported  by  the  sagacity 


44 


kf,  which  stretches 
;nt  Jemseg.  Here. 
:h  the  P^nglish,  of 
n  in  1670.  Under 
capital,  indeed,  of 
rj  to  keep  alive   its 

es  above  for  thirty 
m  a  scenic  point  of 
Passing  Sheffield, 
nose  upper  waters 
ogs  is  reached,  and 
it  booms  on  every 
)ng- pointed  bayous 
and  curious  stern- 
snifis  of  the  odor 
or  the  steamer  as  it 
'elv  F'redericton. 


lore  delightful  town 
lion  first  received  is 
reets  are  beautifully 
hat  grow  so  prodi- 
,  and  ecclesiastical 
Is  hotels  are  well- 
al  beauty  combined 
in  all  ways  goodly 

istributing  point  for 
;s,  a  noted  cotton 
jrnment,  as  well  as 
osphere  is  naturally 
;nis  to  pervade  the 

niversity,  crowning 
chless  panorama  of 
lage  of  Gibson,  a 
ted  by  the  sagacity 


of  Alexander  dibson  ;  the  site  of  the  ancient  stockade  of  Villebon, 
dating  back  to  1692,  and  directly  opposite  the  city  ;  and  the  <  urious 
little  settlement  of  Mulecile  Indians  at  St.  Mary's.  The  frequent 
reveilles  and  bugle  calls  from  the  barracks  on  the  public  sipwre  give  a 
touch  of  militarism  that  is  (|uite  in  keei)ing  with  the  (juaint  surroundings. 
The  beautiful  little  Anglican  cathedral  is  a  model  of  (;othi(;  archi- 
tecture, antl  every  one  expresses  surprise  at  the  abundance  of  tine  build- 
ings generally.  The  piscatorially  inclined  will  fnnl  here  a  good  outfitter 
and  rod  maker,  and  across  the  river  the  veteran  canoe  builder,  Jim 
Paul,  known  through  all  the  Province. 

The  tourist  here  makes  choice  of  returning  to  St.  John  by  rail,  of 
continuing  on  by  the  curious  "  stern-wheelers  "  (if  it  be  high  water)  to 
Woodstock,  of  branching  off  by  rail  along  the  wilds  of  the  Miramichi  to 
Newcasde,  there  meeting  the  Intercolonial  Line,  or  of  continuing  north 
by  rail  to  Woodstock,  the  regions  of  wild  Tobiipie,  mentioned  elsewhere, 
or  the  sublime  scenery  of  Clrand  Falls  and  the  upper  St.  John.  The 
scenery  along  the  upper  river  is  varied  by  many  rugged  jjeaks  and  wooded 
hills,  attaining  its  greatest  novelty  at  the  mouth  of  the  Pokiok  River,  the 
outlet  of  Lake  St.  George,  where  a  wild  cascade  comes  tearing  through 
rocky  walls  for  several  hundred  feet.  At  Canterbury  is  the  portage  to 
Chiputneticook  lakes  and  the  St.  Croix,  at  Kent  a  portage  to  Miramichi's 
waters,  and  at  Andover  the  headquarters  for  canoeists  about  to  take  the 
Tobique  trip. 


GRAND  FALLS. 

The  concentration  of  grandeurs  and  picturesqueness  is  most  em- 
phatically here,  where  all  the  pent-up  aggregations  of  a  thousand  wild 
streams  leap  through  strong  walls  to  dash  in  a  great  cloud  of  spray  on  the 
bowlders  below.  It  is  a  spectacle  worthy  of  the  noble  river  St.  John, 
worthy  of  the  journey  hither  to  witness,  worthy  of  a  more  facile  pen  than 
ours  to  describe.  The  fall  is  a  perpendicular  one  of  seventy-three  feet, 
and  is  set  in  a  landscape  of  peculiar  effectiveness,  dull  rocks  and  deep 
evergreens  everywhere  making  a  contrast  to  its  flashing  lights.  The 
gorge  below,  through  which  the  river  rushes  in  ceaseless  turmoil,  is 
marked  by  many  curious  evidences  of  the  torrent's  power,  —  the 
"  Coffee  Mill  "  beside  the  channel  grinding  eternally,  the  "  Wells,"  worn 
drill-like  into  the  ledge,  and  finally,  the  huge  basin  at  the  lower  end 
receiving  the  troubled  waters  into  its  placid  depths. 

The  little  village  of  Grand  Falls  is  a  study  in  itself;  the  quaint  hotel, 

45 


wliic  h.  Ity  tlic  way,  is  coniroit.ililc  if  ynii  i  arc  to  tarry,  the  iimsy  l>\it 
hniail  strri't  < DiiiU'ctinj,'  railway  and  catarai  t,  anil  a  liL'tiTogcni-oiis  |)()|i- 
iilition  (if  Imlian,  I'lvm  li.  and  ddiilitt'iil  kinds,  who  (an  turn  their  hands 
to  several  callinj^s.  t'roni  wood-i  hopiiinu  to  (  anoeinj;.  A  two  hours'  ride 
by  the  Canadian  I'acit'ic  and  Riviere  dii  Limp  is  reached,  with  thej,'reat 
reso'-tsof  the  St.  Lawrence  near  at  hand,.nid  tiie  inii(|ue  antl  pirtn!es(iiie 
lite  of  tlie  iMench  habitat  in  thi>-.  hit  of  new  l-'raiiie  ;  if  desiralile.  a 
thoroughly  di'lij^htl'iil  round  tri|)  to  Momton  or  St.  John  can  be  made, 
alonj;  the  ^reat  river  of  C'anaila  and  tliroiit,'h  the  heart  of  the  ^reat  fish- 
ing country  of  New  IJrunswick. 

The  reader  may  be  reminded  that  abo\e  and  westward  the  waters  of 
St.  John  reach  their  octojiusdike  arms  for  two  hundred  miles  and  more, 
interlaiing  with  those  of  l'enol)scot,  Kennei)ec,  and  the  lakes  of  .Nfaiiii-'s 
wilderness;  that  not  so  very  far  away  the  head  waters  of  famous 
Restigouche  almost  intermingle  witii  its  own,  and  the  Lake  Madawaska 
emjities  its  full  cii|)  into  the  gathering  currents.  To  Iiim  who  has  tired 
of  the  unrealities  of  the  urban  life,  these  invitations  of  the  woods  and 
stream  that  speak  on  every  hand  come  like  a  revelation  of  a  purer  life  ; 
let  him  take  to  his  bircii  an<l  grasp  tiie  yielding  jjaddle. 


46 


ic  prosy  but 
,'i'iK'cins  |>o|)- 

II  tlu'ir  liands 
()  lidiirs'  ride 
vith  the  great 
1  |)irtiirc'S(iiie 

(Ifsiral)lc'.  a 

III  l)f  made, 
ic  great  tlsli- 

tlie  waters  of 
's  and  more, 
.'s  of  >raiiie's 
<  of  famous 
Madawaska 
ilio  has  tired 
;  woods  and 
a  purer  life  ; 


THE   Tolin^tUE-MIKAMUm- KKSTICdll  UK    AND   JAKJlEr. 
KISII    ANI>  CAMK   LAWS. 


"( )li,  the  I)iave  fisher's  life, 
1 1  Is  tliu  liLsl  i)f  aiiv, 
'T  is  full  iif  pleasure,  void  of  stiifr, 
And  't  is  beloved  of  many  ; 
Other  joyes 
Are  but  toyes, 
duly  this 
,  Lawful  is, 

For  our  skill 
Urceds  no  ill. 
Hut  content  and  i)leasure." 

Walton. 


HK  Hterature  of  the  piscatorial  art,  from  Walton 
down,  is  exceedingly  good  reading.  Iviually 
true  is  it,  tiiat  the  ways  of  the  fisherman  are 
"  ways  of  jiieasantness,  and  all  his  jiatlis  are 
])eace."  Pisces  leads  him  through  nature's 
choicest  jiaths  and  byways,  close  to  nature's 
heart.  Tiie  writer  makes  some  huml)lj;  preten- 
sions as  a  disciple  of  Walton,  so  it  \%Qoii  anion- 
that  he  speaks  of  some  of  the  more  nimous  trout  and  salmon  streams  of 
New  Hrunswick  and  Quebec,  reached  by  the  International  Line  and  its 
connections.  Of  course  it  is  well  known  that  New  Brunswick  contains 
some  of  the  finest  fishing  of  Eastern  America. 

Beginning  with  the  St.  John  and  tributaries,  the  Canadian  Pacific 
Railway  from  St.  John  reaches  the  great  bend  of  the  river  above  (Irand 


47 


1 


K.ill^  ,mil  till'  lu'iwurk  '<(  niliiilarics.  tliat  witli  tlu'ir  tiny  lakc^  ilcs(ril)U 
ilili(  ,iti'  Ir.ii  crii's  oviT  NortliiTii  M.iiiu-,  ami  iiitiTiniiiKlc  with  llio  lioad 
watiT^  of  the  i<fstig(>iul\L',  Ncjiisimiit,  Miraiiiirlii.  ami  others  ot"  iipiicr 
Nt'w  Ilrtiiiswirk.  Nearly  ail  of  these  small  streams  are  full  of  trout,  and 
^'ive  good  returns  to  the  rod  that  reaches  them. 

The  rejjions  beyond  these  streams,  and  hut  a  few  miles  from  the  rail- 
way, .ire  essentially  an  unexplored  wilderness,  full  of  large  game,  antl  llic 
wildest  jMissihle  scenery. 


THE  TOBIQUE 

River,  penetrated  lor  fifteen  miles  by  a  branch  railway,  has  certain  ele- 
ments of  the  granil  and  pictiiresiiue  not  possessed  by  any  other  I'rovin- 
cial  stream.  It  runs  throiij;h  a  mountain  group  of  astonishing  grandeur, 
a  portion  or  connection  of  the  Alleghany  system  ;  they  seemingly  assert 
their  relationship  by  appearing  in  abru[)t  and  striking  forms.     'I'he  Mine 

Mountain  range  on  the  lower 
side  attains  an  altitude  of 
eighteen  hundred  feet. 

.Sixty  miles  from  its  con- 
tinence with  the  St.  John, 
'l'obi(lue  '•  forks  "  into  four 
small  streams.  At  this  point 
is  a  huge  salmon  pool  in 
w  h  i  c  h  fifty-four  l)eauties 
have  been  actually  counted 
at  one  time.  The  right  and 
left  branches  have  good  fish- 
ing, the  latter  more  espe- 
cially in  trout. 

Some  twenty  miles  below  Perth,  at  the  little  station  of  Kent,  one 
can  secure  guides,  and  in  fifteen  miles  of  driving  reach  the  tributaries  of 
the  Miramichi,  where  some  of  the  best  salmon  fishing  of  the  Province 
may  be  enjoyed.  The  Southwest,  Northwest,  Little  Southwest,  and 
Savogle  branches  are  all  good.  The  fish  are  not  large  but  exceedingly 
gamy.  These  streams  are  said,  by  Mr.  Philip  Cox  of  Newcastle,  N.  B.,to 
be  early,  fish  entering  them  last  of  May  and  continuing  till  late  Septem- 
ber. Eighteen  thousand  seven  hundred  salmon  were  taken  from  these 
streams  in  one  year,  and  that  within  five  years.  Fishing  privileges  on 
these  streams  are  mostly  held  by  the  owners  of  the  lands.     'I'he  Nash- 


48 


,L's  (Icsrril)e 
til  tlu'  Ihm(I 
.•r^  (if  \\\)\)vr 
)f  trout,  and 

om  till'  rail- 
IIK-,  ami  the 


certain  do- 
her  I'rovin- 
ig  grandeur, 
iunj,'ly  assert 
,  'I'he  llhie 
)!!  the  lower 
altitude  ot" 
1  feet. 

om  its  ron- 
■  St.  John, 
"  into  four 
Vt  this  i)oint 
lon  pool  in 
lur  Ijeauties 
illy  counted 
le  right  and 
e  good  fish- 
more    espe- 

f  Kent,  one 
tril)utari(.'s  of 
he  Province 
thwest,   and 

exceedingly 
tie,  N.  B.,to 
late  Septem- 
1  from  these 
privileges  on 

'I'he  Nash- 


"p" 


^/////-'^  i^/V.y/////. 


Mt 


waak  River,  entering  St.  John  just  above  Fredericton,  contains  some 
fish,  hut  is  scarcely  to  be  ratetl  as  a  first-class  stream,  although  any  of 
its  small  tributaries  are  good  trout  waters. 

Coming  down  to  civilization,  many  small  streams  west  of  St.  John, 
along  the  Shore  Line,  are  well  stocked  with  trout  running  up  to  four 
and  \]vii  poimds  weight.  The  same  may  be  said  of  the  brooks  entering 
Kennebccasis  Bay,  easterly  from  St.  John.  Two  streams,  the  Upper 
.Salmon  and  Big  Salmon,  on  the  Fundy  shore  between  St.  John  and 
^[oncton,  furnish  moderately  good  salmon  fishing,  considering  their 
nearness  to  large  cities. 

MIRAMICHI. 

Following  the  Intercolonial  Railway,  which  is  the  great  /is/i  line  of 
Canada,  the  next  river  of  importance  is  the  famous  Miramichi,  which  is 
crossed  at  Newcastle.  This  remarkable  stream  is  said  to  have  over  a 
hundred  tributaries,  which  would  certainly  seem  reasonable  on  studying 

its  appearance  on  the 
map.  'I'his  river  lias 
l)een  a  great  salmon 
water  in  its  day,  and  is 
still  so,  though  laws  for 
its  protection  imtil  re- 
cently have  been  poorly 
enforced.  The  govern- 
ment is  doing  much 
toward  restocking  it, 
and  it  is  possible  to 
make  it  what  it  once 
was  in  course  of  time. 
At  Red  Bank,  less  than  twelve  miles  from  Newcastle,  and  at  Big  Hole 
and  Dennis's  pools,  which  are  free  fishing,  there  is  fine  sport,  grilse  may 
be  taken  in  almost  any  of  the  smaller  tributaries,  and  sea  trout  are  plenty 
in  most  of  the  streams  entering  Miramichi  or  Kouchibouguac  Bays,  east 
of  Newcastle.  Shipping  can  penetrate  nearly  fifty  miles  inland,  by  the 
Miramichi,  and  c  inoes  for  two  hundred  or  more. 


-.-upj^Soii*^--,  ■• 


CHALEURS  BAY  AND  JACQUET  RIVER. 

Following  the  Intercolonial  through  fifty  miles  of  uninteresting  coun- 
try to  Hathurst,  we  are  introduced  to  the  Bales  de  Chaleurs,  that  magnifi- 
cent arm  of  the  ocean  around  whi(i-i  cling  so  many  legends  and  supei- 


50 


ntaiiis  some 
lOugh  any  of 

of  St.  Johr, 
;  up  to  four 
oks  entering 
,  the  Upper 
t.  John  and 
lering    their 


t  Jish  Zinc  of 
:hi,  which  is 
have  over  a 
on  studying 
lice  on  tiie 
i  river  lias 
eat  sahiion 
day,  and  is 
igh  laws  for 
3n  initil  re- 
been  poorly 
rhe  govern- 
loing  much 
stocking  it, 
possible  to 
hat  it  once 
-se  of  time. 
It  Hig  Hole 
:,  grilse  may 
It  are  plenty 
c  Bays,  east 
land,  by  the 


ER. 

esting  coun- 

liat  magnili- 

anil  siipei- 


stitions.  I'.athurst  itself  is  a  most  inviting  looking  town,  and  has  one 
hotel,  at  least,  that  may  well  claim  to  be  a  summer  resort,  ha\ing  a 
charming  situation  on  the  very  edge  of  the  bay.  The  Ncpisiguit  River 
finds  the  sea  here,  another  good  salmon  stream,  but  better  salt-water 
trouting,  its  estuary  alive  with  them  early  in  the  season.  .About  the 
middle  of  May  great  numbers  are  taken,  weighing  from  six  pounds 
downward.  This  is  true  of  the  Tabucintac  and  Tracadie  Rivers,  a  few 
miles  south.  But  for  sport  with  the  gun  commend  me  to  this  place 
indeed  !  for  did  not  the  writer  see  the  harbor  black  with  geese,  and  the 
delicious  blue-wingetl  duck,  one  stinging  October  morning?  American 
sportsmen  come  here  for  moose  and  caribou,  as  well  as  the  smaller  game. 

The  Jar([uet  River,  at  station  of  that  name,  is  just  above  Hathurst, 
ranks  as  a  wonderfully  good  sea-trout  stream,  and  furnishes  very  good 
small  salmon  or  grilse  fishing.  For  pure  gaminess,  the  sea-trout,  when 
caught  with  the  fly  in  these  rapid  waters,  is  closely  akin  to  the  salmon, 
showing  splendid  fighting  (I'lalities  and  immense  activity. 

The  Millers  at  Sunnyside  are  good  guides  and  canoeists,  and  will 
mdicate  to  the  sportsman  such  holes  as  are  free  on  the  river,  from  Big 
Hole  Brook  down  the  twelve  miles  to  Barclay's,  where  is  foimd  a  cozv 
seashore  hotel.     The  scenery  along  this  stream  is  wild  and  romantic. 

Charlo  River,  a  few  miles  ferther  north,  is  another  sea-trout  and 
brook-trout  stream,  the  fcjrmer  of  five-pound  weight  antl  under,  the  latter 
from  four  pounds  down  to  one-half  pound.  In  fact,  nearly  any  of  the 
small  rivers  flowing  into  Bay  of  Chaleurs  are  good  fishing  from  May  until 
September. 


DALHOUSIE. 

.A  short  spui  of  the  railway  at  Dalhousie  Junction  leads  to  the  great 
watering  place,  1  )alhousie,  and  the  large  siunmer  hotel.  Inch  Arran. 
Fine  bathing  is  enjoyed  here,  magnificent  views  across  to  the  (,)ue'\.c 
shore,  the  glorious  mountains  of  Bonaventure,  and  out  over  the  hn^  niful 
Chaleurs  (that  bewitching  expanse)  the  towering  cliffs  of  Tracadiegash 
at  (Jaspt^.  Steamer  trips  are  made  to  the  bit  of  France  out  yonder, 
where  all  the  quaint  customs  and  dress  of  the  Breton  fishermen  are 
retained,  to  a  large  degree. 

The  Indian  name  for  this  bay  is  Ecketuam  Xeniaache,  meaning  "  a 
sea  of  fish  "  ;  exceedingly  ai)roi)os  it  is,  too.  Dalhousie  is  practically  at 
the  mouth  or  estuary  of  the  famed  Restigouche.  At  Campbellton,  a  kw 
miles  above,  and,  in  fact,  all  the  way  along  the  rail  route  is  ha<l  an  inspir- 


51 


f 


uv  view  of  ihc  waters,  an  almost  i)riineval  mountain  forest  Iving  hevond, 
the  little  settlement  of  Indian  Point  sleeping  at  their  feet,  near  the  historic 
ruins  of  i'etite  Rochelle. 

The  Intercolonial  have  chosen  this  view,  (jiiite  wisely,  as  tlie  subject 
for  a  picture,  whose  reproduction  has  recently  been  accomplished.  The 
same  good  taste  selected  the  (juite  ideal  "  meeting  of  the  waters  '  just 
above  for  a  similar  jjurjiose. 


I 


THE    RESTIGOUCHE. 

^Ve  could  scarcely  do  better  than  to  take  bodily  Mr.  Kilby  Reynolds's 
descriptioriof  this  king  of  salmon  streams  and  reprint  it  here,  containing, 
as  it  does,  so  much  of  fact  and  suggestion  ;  we  shall  beg  his  in  lulgence 
for  a  little  "  cribbing."  Briefly  stated,  this  river  is  two  hundred  miles 
long,  draining  with  its  tnl)utaries  more  than  two  thousand  square  miles,  a 
land  of  mountain  and  vale,  ])rimeval  forest  and  smiling  meadow  ;  flowing 
from  silent  spring  lakes  and  leaping  cascades,  jjursuing  a  tortuous  course, 
full  of  "  runs  "  and  torrents,  to  wander  with  silent  content  out  into  the 
"reen  leagues  of  Chaleur.  Its  swift  currents  are  lashed  by  a  tliousand 
tiiousand  leaping  trout,  its  silvery  bed  mottled  by  the  silent  shadows  of 
lusty  salmon. 

There  are  many  conflicting  interpretations  of  this  Indian  name,  one 
with  imaginative  taste  making  it  "  Five-fingered  River,"  approi)riately ; 
another,  quite  jjositively,  quoting  ol  1  missionary  chronicles,  "  River  of 
the  Long  War."  Whatever  it  means,  it  is  a  noble  streams,  and  the 
ecstasy  of  a  true  sportsman. 

Regarding  its  fishing,  nearly  all  the  best  pools  are  held  by  lessees, 
l)rinci]>ally  the  Restigouche  Salmon  Club  and  a  few  other  American 
gentlemen.  The  river  is  not  leased  above  Quatawamkedgwick,  as  these 
upper  waters  are  not  especially  good  fisliing.  Proper  letters  of  introduc- 
tion will  secure  the  privilege  of  casting  on  most  any  of  the  large  pools. 
Salmon  of  fifty  pounds  weight  are  often  taken,  the  average  usually  run- 
ning from  twenty-two  to  twenty-four  pounds.  In  the  numerous  lakes 
near  Campbellton  "  plain  fishing"  may  be  had  any  time,  trout  of  a  half- 
pound  to  four  pounds  l)eing  abundant.  Large  and  small  game  for  the 
gunner  are  everywhere  hereabouts,  l)oth  lond  and  water. 

From  Metapedia  to  Newjiort  on  the  north  shore  of  the  bay  are  a 
half-dozen  superb  salmon  streams,  the  Grand  Cascapedia  being  the  best, 
yielding  fish  u]>  to  fifty-six  pounds ;  and  farther  over,  the  York  near 
Gaspe.  whose  fish  run  from  fifteen  to  forty-five  pounds  weight.     Splendid 


52 


I 


ying  licyond, 
r  tlie  liisUnic 

s  the  sul)jc('t 
lislie<l.  'Ilic 
waters  ■'  just 


)y  Reynolds's 
;,  containing. 
is  iivluigencc 
indred  miles 
|iiare  miles,  a 
low  ;  flowing 
tuous  course, 
out  into  the 
y  a  thousand 
It  shadows  of 

in  name,  one 
pi)roi)riately  ; 
s,  "  River  of 
ims,  and  the 

Id  by  lessees, 
er  American 
v'ick,  as  these 
i  of  introduc- 
e  large  pools. 
;  usually  run- 
merous  lakes 
out  of  a  half- 
game  for  the 

;he  bay  are  a 
;ing  the  best, 
le  York  near 
It.     Splendid 


r 


trotit  fishing  prevails  in  tliL-  streams  entering  the  south  shore  of  St. 
I,awrence  Kiver,  the  St.  .Anne's  ranks  iiigh  as  a  salmon  stream  also. 

.\t  C'acoiina  is  the  great  and  popular  resort  of  St.  J.a\vren<e  Hall. 
perha])s  the  most  famous  watering  place  i'l  Canada,  with  its  splendid 
beaches,  noble  St.  Lawrence  panorama,  and  pure  bracing  air.  M  Riviere 
(hi  Lou]),  near  by,  steamers  of  the  Saguenay  and  St.  Lawrence  River  lines 
touch,  afl'ording  another  n'rc  excursion  uj)  either  of  these  famed  waters, 
and  even  to  the  wilds  of  Lake  St.  John  in  the  far  nortli.  Here  also  is 
connection  made  with  the  Canadian  Pacific  for  Crand  Kails  and  other 
jioints  of  interest  along  the  river  and  to  the  city  of  St.  John,  or  back  to 
St.  Andrews  and  St.  S'.ei)hen  mentioned  heretofore. 

Some  forty-five  miles  or  more  eastward  from  Riviere  dii  Lou|)  and 
two  or  three  miles  from  St.  Fabicn  station  is  agrouj)  of  lakelets,  contain- 
ing (juantities  of  trout  which  are  said  to  accept  bait  or  fly  from  early  June 
till  late  August,  and  at  the  next  station  is  Hie,  -'little  Hie."  the  acme  of 
all  an  artist  t)r  wonder  seeker  could  desire,  with  its  great  cliffs,  ]>icturesque 
islands,  antl  entrancing  vistas  of  St.  Lawrence  scenerv. 


54 


hoR'  of  St. 

11  also. 

irncL-  Hall. 

ts  splendid 
.\t  RivicTf 
River  lines 

ned  waters. 

I  ere  alsi)  is 

i  and  other 
or  back  to 

i  Lou])  and 
ts,  contain- 
1  early  June 
he  at  me  of 
|>i(tinvs(iiie 


FISH    AND    GAME    LAWS. 

Close  season,  (Juehec,  spi'c  kled  trout,  October  i  to  |)ccenil)er  ,^i  ; 
salmon,  .\iigiist  15  to  l'Vl)riiary  1  ;  New  Itrunswick,  s|)eckled  trout. 
September  15  to  May  i  ;  salmon,  August  15  to  February  i. 

In  New  Brunswick  no  license  is  re(iuired  of  non-residents  ;  but  in 
(Quebec  this  is  required,  and  can  be  obtained  of  the  fish  commissioner. 

The  regions  about  the  liead  waters  of  tiie  streams  we  have  mentioned, 
as  also  the  forests  of  Cumberland,  Colchester.  Halifax,  and  Ciuysborough. 
Nova  .Scotia,  or  Victoria  and  Inverness  in  i'ix\)c  iireton,are  noted  moose 
and  caribou  grounds,  and  with  i)roper  guides  will  not  disappoint  tlie 
gunner.  The  close  season  on  these  is,  Nova  Scotia,  Febniary  i  to  Sep- 
temlier  15  ;  New  Brunswick,  February  15  to  August  ,^i,  on  deer  as  well  ; 
in  (^)iiebec,  February  i  to  Sejjtember  i,  and  of  deer,  January  i  to 
October  i.  No  one  jjerson  is  allowed  to  take  more  than  two  moose 
and  four  caribou  in  any  one  year  or  season.  The  flesh  is  to  be  carried 
out  of  the  woods  within  ten  days  after  killing,  and  game  killed  during 
the  latter  part  of  January  shall  be  carried  out  during  the  first  five  days 
of  February.  The  penalty  for  the  violation  of  these  provisions  is  from 
530  to  $50,  and  a  fine  of  $25  is  imposed  for  hunting  with  dogs.  Wood- 
cock must  not  be  killed  before  sunrise  or  after  simset.  Blue-winged 
duck  must  not  be  taken  between  the  first  days  of  April  and  August. 
The  annual  licenses  for  non-residents  expire  on  the  ist  of  .August. 
They  cost  $^0  each. 

There  are,  also,  other  details  regarding  rpiantity,  manner  of  killing, 
dressing,  etc.,  which  the  interested  can  find  from  the  Intercolonial  and 
Windsor  and  Annapolis  Railway  guides,  or  the  government  i)ublications. 
New  Brunswick  is  doing  much  of  late  to  enforce  her  laws  on  seining  and 
spearing,  as  well  as  restocking  her  streams,  but  Nova  Scotia  needs  a 
vigorous  stirring  up  on  this  question.  At  present  there  are  in  the  latter 
Province  but  one  or  two  really  good  salmon  streams,  while  there  are 
very  many  good  trout  and  sea-trout  streams  along  her  coast  line. 


I 


!  i 


55 


EASTWARD    AGAIN 

I  laving  dc'cidcd  uin>ii  the  "all  rail"  imitc  to  reach  the  far  hlast  ul' 
(iiir  amic  ipatioiis,  the  \\i\c  station  ot"  the  Intercolonial  Railway  of  Canada 
will  1)0  our  startinj;  point  and  may  lie  accejjted  as  im  indication  of  the 
proj^ressive  niana},'e!uent  of  "  the  people's  own  "  line.  This  is  our  intro- 
diK  tion  to  Canadian  railways;  and  if  anyone  has  hail  doul)ts  as  to  the 
conilort  or  s])ee<l  of  sue  h  service,  or  the  feasihilily  of  gosernnient  nian- 
aj^enient,  let  them  he  dispelled  forthwith. 


:X: 


KENNEBECASIS. 

'{"he  track  follows  the  supposed  former  bed  of  the  St.  Jolin  for 
two  or  three  miles,  when  it  skirts  the  shores  of  lovely  Kennehecasis. 
There  is  somethint{  bewitching  about  this  name,  and  the  waters  them- 
selves are  none  the  less  so,  retaining  as  they  do  the  wiklness  of  their 
primitive  state  to  a  great  degree.  The  stations,  like  the  scenery,  are 
suggestive  of  the  Scotch  Highlands,  for  there  is  Torryburn  and  Rothesay, 
and  a  few  miles  south  the  fair  waters  of  Loch  l.omond. 

For  upwards  of  twenty  miles  liie  rail  clings  closely  to  the  shore  of 
KeiMiebecasis,  the  simnner  homes  of  St.  John's  best  i)eople  lining  the 
route  almost  continuously.  .\t  Rothesay  is  the  Rothesay  Hall,  a  very 
comfortable  summer  hotel,  and  the  best  point  from  which  to  enjoy  or 
explore  the  bay  and  triljutaries.  Nearly  o])posite,  across  the  water,  lies 
the  charming  village  of  Clifton,  in  every  way  fitteil  to  the  lovely  setting 
of  landscajjc  provided  for  it. 

Beyond  Hampton  the  bay  narrows  to  a  stream,  and  the  stream, 
meandering  among  lovely  meadows  and  confining  hills,  is  in  turn  lost  in 
little  brooks  that  here  and  there  send  out  a  gleam  of  silver,  then  follow  a 
few  miles  of  hojjelessly  barren  and  unattractive  country,  redeemed  later 
by  the  quaint  French  settlements  that  line  the  Anagance  River,  leaving 
their  impress  on  nomenclature  as  well  as  landscape. 

Very  cm-ious  and  entertaining  is  the  study  of  the  time  tables  along 
these  Canadian  railways.  Indian,  French,  and  Scotch  names  blend  in 
a  gooil-natured  medley,  and  indicate  the  character  of  the  early  settlers, 
if  notiiing  more.  In  many  instances  the  result  is  a  blending  of  French- 
Indian,  as  in  Feticodiac  or  Petitcodiac,  It  is  also  very  interesting  to 
r.j*e  how  the  early  settlers  have  influenced  the  contours  and  general 
aspect  of  the  country  they  have  settled  ;   this  is  most  notably  true  in 


S6 


(^(iiilici    ;m(l    [i.irls  oi'   I'.MstiTH    Nova   Scnti.i   .md   ('.i|if    I'.ri'toii,  wlxiv 
primitive  (  omlitioiis  |iivv.iil  to  an  iiiiiiMial  (k'uri'f. 

This  little  Aiiagaiu  c  River  is  tyiii(  al  of  nearly  all  streams  enlerinn 
tlie  Hay  of  Finidy,  in  that  it  exists,  and  then  a^ain  does  not,  it  may  lie 
full  and  ovcrllowing  with  a  tt)o  generous  tide  at  one  hour,  and  a  very  few 
hours  later  a  muddy  pish  in  the  landscaii.-.  its  sides  reeking'  with  ^'listen- 
ing slime.  We  must  coiitess  to  a  strange  t'as<i nation  in  these  tidal  antiis, 
a  fascination  not  li'ssened  li\  a  several  weeks'  intimai  v. 


MONCTON. 

Su(  h  |ii(  lures(|ue  names  as  I'lumesweep,  I'enolisiiui''.  ami  Anaganc  e 
greet  the  ears  and  lead  to  Salisbury,  where  detours  can  be  made  to  the 
famous  tlshing  grounds  of  Toilet  or  ("anaan  Rivers,  and  on  to  the  great 
railway  town  of  New  llrunswick,  the  <  entre  of  the  Intercolonial  system 
of  railways,  and  a  thriving  progressive  city  of  more  than  ten  thousand 
souls. 

It  may  not  be  considered  a  compliment  by  a  .Monctonian,  but  to  an 
American  the  city  is  perhaps  more  like  those  of  his  own  country  than 
almost  any  he  will  find  in  Canada.  Its  rapid  growth  in  a  few  years,  from 
a  provincial  hamlet  to  the  hustling  city  of  the  jiresent  time,  is  also 
suggestive  of  the  .\nierican  idea.  The  fine  and  imposing  office  bnililing 
of  the  Intercolonial  is  at  the  left  of  the  station  on  entering  from  the  west. 
The  great  sjiectacle  of  Monkton  is  its  "bore,"  a  most  astonishing  effect 
of  the  I'undy  tides,  which  come  tearing  uj)  the  Fetitcodiac  River  bed  in 
an  impetuous  wall  of  water  from  four  to  eight  feet  in  height ;  this  is  truly 
worthy  of  a  stop  for  the  express  purpose  of  witnessing,  and  adds  one  more 
to  the  already  numerous  phenomena  of  Fundy. 

Moncton  is  also  the  great  distributing  point  for  tourists,  northward, 
eastward,  and  southwaril :  northward  to  the  great  fishing  streams,  the 
Bay  of  Chaleur,  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Quebec,  which  have  been 
mentioned  elsewhere  ;  eastward  to  the  I'rince  Kdward  Island  ;  south- 
ward to  Nova  Scotia  and  the  noble  Island  of  Cape  Breton.  We  shall 
endeavor  to  suggest  briefly  to  the  reader  a  few  of  the  allurements  of  all 
the  latter  sections  in  the  following  pages. 


57 


ih 


■ijti^^'\ 


"'  »        ,   .  I. 


rillO  •  (.AKDl'.N  01'  CANADA'  -MMMKUMPi; - 
(  HAKIOlTKroWN-Kl'Sl  U()-M'()KTS-  KISII- 
IN(;-Kl'UAI.    I'VI'KS-I'HK  KI-.Tl'KN 


\\V.  Iiitcrcolonial  Riiilway  carries  the  traveller  Uvelve  or 
tiiirteen  miles  eastward  to  the  landing  of  the  I'rince 
I'ldward  Island  Navigation  Company,  at  Point  du  Chene, 
where  coimnodions  new  steamers  cross  the  Straits  of 
Northumlierland.  \Ve  pass  on  ;he  way  tlie  attractive 
town  of  Shediac,  where  bathing  can  actually  be  enjoyed 
in  mikl  waters,  and  oysters  of  most  lielicate  (juality  served 
galore  in  every  style. 

l'"rom  Point  dn  Chene  to  Snmmerside  it  is  thirty-five 
niiles  of  delightful  sailing,  and  it  is  hard  to  imagine  the 
nearly  insuperable  barrier  that  separates  these  two  points 
in  winter,  in  the  form  of  ice-floes  that  shut  off  communi- 
cation almost  completely.  At  times  the  only  means  of 
conveyance  is  by  open  boats  from  Cape  Tormentine, 
N.  P.,  to  Cape  Traverse  on  the  island,  which  are  pushed 
through  or  dragged  over  the  floating  ice  cakes  at  great 
peril.  It  is  not  unnatural,  then,  that  the  Island  Province 
siiould  have  its  separate  existence  and  legislature,  the 

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PhotDgraphic 

Sciences 

Coiporalion 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


JR-- 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


I  <!tt\WWi\nf  tc  \Vriiwnrari 


smallest  of  the  confederation.  This  tight  little  island,  liie  "Carden  of 
Canada  "  it  is  called,  is  thirty-four  miles  liy  one  hundred  ;\nd  fifty,  and  it 
would  seem  that  not  a  foot  of  its  area  was  un]>rodu(tive,  for  it  has  no 
lofty  hills,  no  rocks,  and  little  forest,  with  a  rich  red  loam  that  resjionds 
generously  to  the  hand  of  the  c  ultivator. 

It  is  evident  why  the  natives  should  he  dubbed  "  Redfeet."  but  not 
as  explainable  that  New-Brnnswickers  are  called  "  I'.uckwheats."  or 
Nova-Scotians  "  Bluenoses.'  but  they  have  all  ai  <  epled  their  nicknames 
philosophically  as  becomes  the  true  Canadian. 

'l"he  island  has  evidently  been  appreciated  from  the  fust,  for  it  has 
suffered  an  almost  ceaseless  disjnite  over  the  land  ([uestion  for  nearly  a 
century.  Discovered  by  Cabot,  who  named  it  St.  John,  the  English 
ftxiling  to  take  possession,  it  was  claimed  by  the  l-Yench  in  1523,  who 
established  fisheries.  The  treaty  of  I'oiUainebleau  gave  the  island  to 
(ireat  l>ritain,  who  gave  it  its  jjiesent  name.  'I'he  two  millions  or  more 
acres  were  divitled  into  sixty-six  lots  and  awarded  to  as  m.ui)-  grantees  ; 
the  usual  difficulties  between  a  local  government  and  a  king's  governor 
followed,  resulting  in  a  drawn  battle.  'J'he  jjurchase  by  colonial  govern- 
ment and  redistribution  of  lands  under  dispute  only  partially  solved  the 
])rol)lem.  which  now  seems  decided  l)y  the  conditions  required  since  the 
island  joined  the  confederation.  .Since  the  union  with  the  Provinces  in 
1873,  and  the  building  of  a  railroad  through  the  island,  prosperity  seems 
to  have  grown  ai)ace. 

Of  course,  agriculture  is  the  one  great  industry,  its  products  exi)orted 
to  the  amount  of  over  a  million  dollars  ;  its  fisheries  next,  with  an  export 
of  nearly  a  half-million  dollars  value.  A  stay  of  however  short  duration 
reveals  the  (iict  that  the  "  Redfeet "  have  garden  i)rcHlucts  in  quantity 
and  quality  unexcelled  anywhere.  Oysters,  also,  of  a  peculiarly  delicate 
flavor,  are  raked  from  the  shores  of  many  bays,  having  a  reputation  all 
over  Canada.  '  , 

SUMMERSIDE. 

As  the  steamer  approaches  the  island,  the  first  land  sighted  is  the 
headland  of  Cai)e  Egmont,  in  the  far  north,  after  wliich  the  course  leads 
into  Bedeque  Bay  and  the  busy  shipbuilding  town  of  Summerside.  In 
this  harbor  lies  a  picturescjue  little  island  at  the  mouth  of  the  Dunk 
River,  which  has  been  for  several  years  ([uite  a  resort,  with  its  hotel  and 
woodsy  roads.  Prince  Edward  Island  is  but  three  miles  wide  just  here, 
the  bay  of  Richmond  penetrating  to  that  point  on  the  other  side.  A 
little  trip  by  rail  to  Tignish  will  reveal  the  quaint  settlements  inland  and 
alongshore  of  Scotch  and  Irish  origin,  and  the  pastoral  beauties  so  char- 
acteristic of  the  whole  island. 

59 


m 


'  CHARLOTTETOWN 

is  tlif  important  city  of  the  island,  is  attractively  anil  generously  laid  out, 
and  has  a  iioimlation  approaching;  twelve  thousand.     Its  sipiare  full   of 


P>5T«R,rtl.<StlMt.' 

-    P.L.I.sl.flri% 


flowering  plants  and  well-arranged  walks  is  surrounded  by  substantial, 
not  to  say  hanilsome  buildings,  tiiat  might  do  honor  to  a  more  important 
city.  \\'ith  all  of  its  local  attractions,  Charlottetown  offers  a  series  of 
delightful  land  and  water  excursions  and  a  host  of  fishing  waters  that 
are  truly  remarkable.  Steamers  run  three  times  a  week  to  Orwell,  on 
the  eastern  shore  of  Hillsboro'  Bay,  twice  weekly  to  West  River,  a  goo<l 


do 


y  laid  out. 
uc  full  of 


J 


y^: 


>•■ 


4. 

Ik. 


substantial, 
;  important 
a  series  of 
rt'aters  that 
Orwell,  on 
ver,  a  good 


ii  If  iiiwriifiumi     iii]i!inimit»M 


sea-trout  fisliing  water,  and  nearly  every  day  to  Rocky  Point.  All  ol 
these  trips  reveal  singular  beauty  of  land  and  water-scajie.  The  hills, 
though  not  high  or  abrupt,  arc  gently  undulating,  and  fresh  with  the 
colors  of  thrifty  farm  jiroduction,  slope  gently  to  the  shores,  where  often- 
times the  eye  is  eaught  by  glorious  i)al(hes  of  the  bright  orange  and  red 
of  the  red  sandstone,  ami  rises  abruptly  in  jjlaces  to  a  height  of  fifty  or 
seventy-five  feet. 

C'harlottetown's  i)osition  at  the  head  of  a  great  bay  ami  at  the  junc  lion 
of  three  considerable  rivers  gives  it  a  great  advantage  as  a  reiort,  and  its 
hotels  in  two  or  three  instances  are  such  as  to  encourage  a  jirotracted 

stay. 

RUSTICO, 

a  town  on  the  north  shore,  is  a  most  delightful  little  resort,  with  good 
l)athing  and  boating,  and  if  jiossible  better  fishing  along  the  Hunter 
River.  The  eastern  section  from  Douglas  to  Souris  is  composed  largely 
of  (".aelic  settlements,  where  the  names,  the  customs,  and  all  the  little 
details  in  life  are  thoroughly  iirimitive  and  enjoyable.  At  St.  Peter's 
some  good  salmon  or  sea-trout  fishing  may  be  enjoyetl,and  in  f;ict  nearly 
all  the  rivers  along  the  coast  line  are  noted  for  their  good  fishing. 

The  hospitality  of  the  "  Redfoot  "  is  proverbial.  .\  journey  across 
country  on  foot,  or  a  i)addle  up  any  of  the  numerous  canoeable  streams, 
with  rod  or  gun,  will  bring  one  in  touch  with  the  warm  hearts  and  sim- 
ple manners  of  the  Scotch  settlers,  as  well  as  the  haunts  of  feathered 
game  that  inh.abit  the  island  generally.  The  western  end  of  the  island 
is  the  favored  locality  for  the  gunner,  Cascumpeque  Harl)or  in  particular 
should  be  mentioned. 

'I'he  possibilities  for  a  roundabout  route,  taking  in  other  attractions 
upon  the  return,  are  great.  For  one  may,  instead  of  retracing  the  route 
via  Summerside  and  Point  du  Chene,  leave  the  island  at  Charlottetown, 
crossing  by  steamer  to  Pictou  on  the  Nova  Scotia  shore  of  the  mainland. 
We  are  now  upon  the  true  peninsula  of  Nova  Scotia,  in  reaching  which, 
without  the  tour  of  Prince  Edward  Island,  the  route  is  from  Moncton  — 
the  junction  point  to  which  we  first  came  from  St.  John  —  by  rail  of  the 
Intercolonial  through  Painsec  Junction,  where  the  detour  was  made  to 
Point  du  Chene,  the  point  of  embarkation  for  the  island. 

'J'ruro  is  the  junction  point  for  Halifax,  needless  to  name  as  the 
metropolis  of  Nova  Scotia.  Here  the  main  line  of  the  railway  tips 
sharply  down  to  the  Atlantic,  while  the  Pictou  branch  turns  in  the  opi)o- 
site  direction  to  find  us  just  landed  from  the  Prince  Edward  Island 
boat,  or  steaming  down  over  the  intervening  eleven  miles  from  Pictou 
Wharf  to  meet  the  train  from  Moncton,  and  through  Moncton,  St.  John, 
at  New  ("ilasgow.  61 


■V  siavtpii'Jrtitt**^  ■  '.J 


i^^mmMm^ 


SOMK.     TOWNS  KN    KOl'TK  — IllsH  )KK     CKOUNUS — 
I'HK  KKIilON  OK  MINKS -M  KM  r  OK  CANSO. 

To  reacli  Nova  Scutiii  and  Ca])e  Breton  l)y  rail  one  leaves  Moncton 
by  the  Intercolonial,  passes  through  I'ainsec  Junction,  and  then  is  carried 
with  a  swirl  southward  along  the  Memranicook  and  out  on  the  great 
marshes  of  the  same  name.  It  is  not  too  much  to  declare  this  marsh 
land  the  most  impressive  on  Canadian  territory,  if  not  on  the  continent. 
Near  Memranicook  station  and  frou)  tiience  to  Dorchester  it  reaches 
its  full  grandeur,  the  broad  antl  simple  planes,  broken  here  and  there  by 
the  tidal  river,  or  the  clustering  haystacks,  and  beyond  the  (|uite 
European  stctlement  of  St.  Joseph's  College,  on  a  low  hill  dominating 
the  picture. 

At  Dorchester,  Shei)ody  15ay  is  encountered,  the  upper  extremity  of 
Chignecto  Channel,  an  arm  of  Fundy.  It  is  here  antl  also  at  Amherst, 
a  few  miles  farther  beyond,  that  the  tides  ])ile  themselves  to  such  tre- 
mendous heights,  sixty  feet  being  the  maximum  ;  here  also  the  Petitcodiac 
and  Memranicook  waters  meet.  I  )orchester  is  an  attractive  old  town,  is 
possessed  of  much  wealtii  and  stately  homes,  but  at  present  seems  to  be 
taking  a  somewhat  lengthy  na]) ;  this  is  rather  pleasing  than  otherwise, 
however,  to  a  tourist.  Sackville  possesses  what  is  lacking  in  Dorchester, 
—  much  push  and  activity,  less  attractiveness  and  (luaintness;  shipbuild- 
ing is  the  all-absorbing  occupation,  the  ring  of  the  mallet  re-echoing 
from  the  hillsides  all  along  the  north  shore  of  Cumberland  Basin,  which 
lies  to  the  southward. 

From  Sackville  a  branch  railway  runs  across  the  fertile  country  of 
Westmoreland  County  to  Cape  Tourmentine,  on  the  Northumberland 
Strait,  the  winter  port  of  Prince  Edward  Island  boats.  From  Sackville, 
also,  the  train  glides  out  on  the  great  marshes  of  Tantramar,  the  Tinta- 
manc  of  the  Frencli,  -ignifying  "  a  hubbub,"  a  name  well  illustrated  at 
the  incoming  or  outgoing  of  the  tide.  This  vast  area  is  reclaimed  by 
dikes,  anil  at  the  head  of  the  marsh  is  one  of  the  greatest  plover  grounds 
in  Canada. 

6a 


J 


3 


J 


'I'liis  ii'j^ioii  is  liistoiic  j;i(iuii(l,  the  si  I'lu-  of  tl\<)se  stirring'  cxcnts  so 
fascinatingly  iiictunil  l)y  I'aiknian.  '\'Uv  littli-  Missiguasli  Rivt-r  just 
lii'y(in<l  AuIk  station  was  made  liy  tlic  I'riMK  h,  (he  dividing  line  lii'twcen 
tliL'ir  territory  and  tliat  of  tin-  llnglisli,  planting  old  I'ort  licaiiscjoiir,  now 
Fort  ('nnil)i'rland,  just  lurf  to  dctVnd  their  claim.  A  little  l)elow  are 
the  remains  of  the  opposing  Fort  Lawrence,  hack  of  which  stood  the 
Acadian  settlement  of  Jiiitii/'iissiii.  'I'he  tin\  stream  still  serves  as  the 
hounilary  of  two  provinces,  and  as  we  cross  it  we  enter  the  land  of  the 
"  Hluunose,"  the  storied  soil  of  Acadia,  and  shortly  after  jiuU  up  at 
Amherst  station.  .Amherst,  aside  from  rich  agricultural  and  mining 
interests,  is  noticeable  as  the  western  terminal  of  the  great  Chigneito 
Marine  Railway  that  was  to  he,  and  whose  interrupted  works  are  i)asse(l 
a  mile  or  two  before  entering  the  town.  From  here  also  runs  a  funny 
little  mining  railway  to  the  Joggins,  on  Cumberland  Flasin,  the  same  of 
Joggins  raft  fame,  and  even  more  notable  to  geologists  for  its  rich  fossil 
remains  along  the  cliffs  that  line  the  shore. 

Evidences  of  coal  mining  are  frequent  about  here,  for  this  is  the 
renowned  Cumberland  coal  district,  one  of  the  richest  among  Nova 
Scotia's  rich  mining  jjossessions.  Of  the  nearly  two  million  tons  of  coal 
mineil  annually  in  Nova  Scotia,  these  mines  contribute  some  half  million, 
or  about  one-fourth.  Along  the  line,  at  numerous  points,  spurs  of  rail- 
way runoff  to  mines  in  either  direction  ;  while  at  Sjjring  Hill  Junction, 
the  Cumberland  Railway  runs  across  to  Parrsborough  and  the  Hasin  of 
Minas,  into  certainly  one  of  the  most  romantic  bits  of  country  in  all  the 
i'rovinces,  indeed,  we  should  name  it  among  four  or  five  sections  as 
espeenally  worthy  the  traveller's  attention.  A  further  description  of 
Minas  .vill  be  found,  under  the  head  of  Noi'a  Sco/ia,  elsewhere. 

At  Oxford  Junction  again,  another  branch  railway  of  the  Intercolonial 
runs  out  over  the  rich  country  of  'latamagouche  and  I'ictou,  returning  to 
the  main  line  at  New  Glasgow.  From  Wentworth  the  train  begins  a 
long  climb  of  several  miles  up  the  slope  of  the  Cobequid  Mountains, 
that  line  the  northern  shore  of  the  picturesciue  bay  of  the  same  name. 
The  outlook,  which  has  been  monotonous  and  limited,  now  opens  into 
a  landscape  of  irresistible  beauty ;  one  of  (iniet  pastoral  charm,  as  seen 
from  a  high  mountain  ;  stretching  away  for  miles  toward  the  strait,  reach- 
ing its  climax  with  the  enthusiasm  of  the  beholder  near  F'olly  Lake,  a 
little  eye  set  in  its  ileep  mountain  socket  six  hundred  feet  above  the  sea. 

From  FoUeigh  the  locomotive  and  its  followers  enjoy  a  toboggan 
coast  for  some  ten  miles  out  into  the  open  country,  overlooking  the 
extremest  eastern  waters  of  Fundy. 


64 


;  cxx'iits  su 

Rivor  just 

ic  hi'twcfii 

^L'joiir,  now 

l)cl()w  arc 

stood  tho 

ACS  as  till' 

and  of  tlu- 

])till    ii|)  at 

iiid  mining 

Cliij,'in.'(tt) 

are  jjasscd 

lis  a  funny 

lie  same  of 

rich  fossil 

this  is  tiie 
long  Nova 
ons  of  coal 
lalf  million, 
lurs  of  rail- 
11  Junction, 
le  liasin  of 
•y  in  all  the 
sections  as 
cription  of 
re. 

itercolonial 
eturning  to 
n  begins  a 
Mountains, 
ame  name. 

opens  into 
rm,  as  seen 
trait,  reach- 
illy  Lake,  a 
jve  the  sea. 
I  toboggan 
looking  the 


TRURO, 

which  is  at  the  head  of  (■()be<iuid  May,  is  a  charming  town  ;  large,  pros- 
perous, aristo<  ratic  looking,  in  fad,  to  Nova  Scotia  what  Kredericton  is 
to  New  IJnmswick,  the  most  attractive  of  its  size.  It  possesses  a  remark- 
ably pretty  park  and  the  most  varied  assortment  of  drives  across  moun- 
tain or  UKirsh.  and  needs,  we  must  add,  a  i^ooi/  hold.  It  is  here  that 
the  lines  diverge,  running  along  the  fertile  valley  and  capricious  waters 
of  Shubenacadie  River,  (Irand  1-ake,  and  lledford  Masin  to  Halifax  ; 
or  reaching  out  to  that  bree/.y  isle  of  Cape  llreton,  wliither  we  ai-e 
journeying. 

NEW    GLASGOW 

is  an  intensely  practical  mining  town,  possessing  many  strong  reminders 
along  its  streets  and  lanes  of  its  Gaelic  founders.  Their  stamj)  is  upon 
it  as  upon  all  the  country  from  here  eastward  to  Scatari  Islanil.  The 
mines  here  and  at  Stellarton  are  extensive  and  valuable,  and  to  those 
who  have  never  seen  such,  interesting  and  accessible. 

ANTIGONISH. 

From  New  Glasgow  to  .\ntigonish  are  stations  whose  names  are 
either  Scotch  or  Indian,  little  towns  among  fertile  fields  or  along  marshy 
streams  j  with  now  and  then  a  glimpse  across  to  the  Antigonish  Moun- 
tains.    We  are  in  the  suggestively  named  townships  of  Maxwelton  and 

Arrisaig. 

Approaching  the  fair  town  of  Antigonish,  the  striking  twin  towers 
of  the  Scotch  Cathedral  of  St.  Ninian  attract  the  eye  and  dominate  the 
scene,  acting  as  a  foil  to  the  prevailing  horizontal  lines  of  the  landscape. 
We  recall  how  grateful  Warner  found  the  sight  of  this  town  in  his  quest 
of  BaM-ck.  The  American  elm  grows  plentifully  here,  combining  with 
other  fair  features  to  make  it  an  alluring  retreat  for  "  the  traveller  who 
desires  nothing  but  unrestricted  lotus-eating." 

One  of  the  leading  products  of  Nova  Scotia  is  gypsum,  of  which 
Antigonish  quarries,  that  honeycomb  the  great  cliffs  on  George  Bay  a 
few  miles  northward,  yield  a  very  large  proportion.  Some  most  remark- 
able contrasts  of  color  are  seen  in  a  drive  or  sail  from  Antigonish  to 
Cape  St.  George,  the  dazzling  white  cliffs  of  gypsum  rising  in  places  two 
hundred  feet  above  the  turquoise-hued  waters  of  the  bay.  It  is  here, 
too.  that  a  journey  southward  may  be  made  into  the  forest  wilds  of  cen- 
tral Nova  Scotia,  with  their  herds  of  moose  and  deer ;  a  wilderness  that 

65 


i 


ii 


aimmmmmKMm0imimm 


r^ 


rtMchfs  with  tew  intorr  'ptions  from  (liiyshoroii^h  tMstcrly  to  Halifax 
westerly.  Still  fartluT  art-  the  primitive  fishing  hamlets  that  line  tiic 
irregular  shores  of  the  southern  coast. 

•About  the  only  thing  of  interest  between  Antigonish  and  Mulgrave  is 
the  'I'rappist  Monastery  near  'I'racadie,  at  a  station  calleil  Monastery,  a 
very  ancient  and  peculiar  institution,  whose  intent  is  evitlently  to  give 
object  lessons  in  farming  and  simple  living.  The  close  observer  will 
hardly  fail  to  notice  on  tiie  left  a  most  pictures(|ne  cluster  of  silvery  gray 
buildings,  over  which  i)eeps  the  ijuite  foreign-looking  spire  ami  cross  of 
a  chajjel.  It  is  another  ancient  establishment,  a  nunnery,  and  a  relic  of 
"Id  Acadian  days. 


^^r^^^w^m^..^. 


From  this  point  on.  the  fre<iuent  outcropping  of  brilliant  white  patches 
of  gypsum  indicates  the  character  of  the  soil,  afforiling  also  enlivening 
contrasts  to  the  deep  green  of  the  forests  on  either  hand.  Beyond 
HiUbor  ail  Boiiche  the  bristling  head  of  Cape  Porcupine  looms  up  over 
the  wilderness,  a  glimpse  of  far-away  (ieorge  Bay  is  caught,  then  the 
train  swings  sharply  to  the  right  and  with  applied  brakes  we  glide  down 
into 

MULGRAVE, 

with  the  glorious  Strait  of  Canso,  across  it  the  Ultima  Thule  ot  our 
travels  and  expectations,  the  fair  island  of  Cape  Breton.  Canso.  or 
Canseau,  is  said  to  be  the  French  derivation,  as  in  so  many  instances 
hereabouts,  of  the  Indian  word  Kainsok,  "  steep  blufls."  The  name  is 
apt,  for  on  either  hand  the  fine  cliffs  of  Porcupine  or  Pirates'  Cove  drop 
precipitately  from  an  altitude  of  nearly  five  hundred  feet  into  the  strait, 
holding  between  them  the  curious  little  Scottish  settlement  of  McNair's 
Cove.     Along  this  great  waterway  moves  a  never-ending  procession  of 

66 


•1^. 


to  Halifax 
It  line  tiu' 

tliilnravc  is 
Diiastery,  a 
tly  to  f,'ivt.' 
server  will 
iilvery  K'ray 
1(1  cross  of 
I  a  relic  of 


lite  patches 
enlivening 
Beyond 
ns  up  over 
,  then  the 
jlide  down 


ule  ot  our 
Canso,  or 
y  instances 
le  name  is 
Cove  drop 
the  strait, 
f  McNair's 
jcession  of 


the  conuuene  from  every  nation  of  ( ivili/aiion.  for  it  is  the  short  cut 
lielween  the  cities  of  the  north  ami  the  outer  world. 

In  approaching  the  island  of  Cape  IJreton  from  this  point,  two  main 
avenue>  are  offend,  one  by  the  ferry  of  the  Intercolonial  to  its  railway 
terminal  at  llawkeshury,  just  opposite  Muigrave,  (ontinuiuK  directly 
through  the  island  to  Sydney  ;  the  other,  by  the  steamers  of  the  IJras 
d'Or  Navigation  Company  via  St.  I'eter's  Canal  anil  the  lakes  to  the 
same  pla(  e.  If  the  traveller  wishes  spee<l  and  comfort,  the  former  route 
is  conunendeil ;  if  to  realize  to  the  full  the  marvellous  beauty  and  variety 
of  the  inland  sea,  then,  by  all  odds,  choose  the  latter.  .\  combination 
of  the  two  is  still  better,  taking  steamer  for  Crantl  Narrows  via  St. 
Peter's,  thence  to  Sydney,  returning  by  steamer  via  liaddeck  and  Why- 
cocomagh  to  the  Narrows,  thence  back  by  rail  to  .Mulgrave. 


67 


:TOT^ 


IHE   HRAS    P'OR    LAKES -SYDNEY- HISTORIC    I.OUISHURG  — 
ISADDECK.,  AND  THE  GREAT  NORTH  WILDERNESS, 


N  leaving  Miilgrave  by  Bras  d'Or  steamer,  we  steam  down 
the  strait  past  the  mysterious  Pirates'  Cove,  i)ast  the 
expectant  hamlet  of  Melford  —  for  this  is  the  spot  where 
"Terminal  City"  is  supposed  to  have  made  a  beginning. 
While  we  are  rounding  Bear  Head  on  the  left,  and 
approaching  tlie  Lennox  passage,  it  may  be  opjiortune  to  generalize  a 
little  on  this  remarkable  island  of  Cape  Breton.  Its  history  begins 
practically  with  the  Portuguese  colony,  which  in  the  early  fifteen  hun- 
dreds was  established  in  the  little  bay  of  St.  Peter's,  then  Port  Toulouse, 
and  whose  memory  is  kept  alive  only  by  the  names  that  have  come  down 
from  them  intact  through  the  years  of  subsequent  history.  The  sturdy 
Bretons  who  succeeded  them  have  left  their  imi)rint  on  every  part  of  the 
island,  the  name  of  which  itself  was  given  by  them.  The  complicated 
struggles  for  possession  of  this  valued  spot  by  French  and  English,  realiz- 
ing its  importance  as  a  strategic  jjoint  in  North  America,  constitue  ,one 
of  the  most  intensely  interesting  chapters  in  New  World  history. 

At  present  the  island  is  essentially  a  new  Scotland,  large  portions  of  it 
being  inhabited  by  the  (iaels,  while  a  few  settlements  are  almost  wholly 
French,  as  at  Cheticamp  on  north  shore  and  Isle  Madame,  which  we  are 
now  approaching,  and  between  which  and  the  mainland  is  Lennox  Pass- 
age.    The  tenacity  with  which  the  customs  and  traditions  of  the  mother 


earn  clown 
,  past  the 
spot  w!iere 
beginning. 
;  left,  and 
jneralize  a 
ory  begins 
fteen  hun- 
Toulouse, 
ome  down 
rhe  sturdy 
part  of  the 
Dmplicated 
lish,  realiz- 
istitue  ,one 
ry. 

rtions  of  it 
lost  wholly 
lich  we  are 
inox  Pass- 
the  mother 


countries  are  retained  among  these  people  makes  the  human  interest  of 
the  region  especially  marked. 

Not  less  remarkable,  however,  is  the  physical  aspect  of  Cape 
Breton,  a  trifle  over  one  hundred  miles  in  length,  nearly  eighty  in  widtli, 
and  all  but  divided  through  the  middle  by  the  waters  of  the  famous 
Bras  d'Or  lakes,  the  division  having  been  completed  by  the  fine  canal 
of  St.  Peter's,  making  an  exceeilingly  attractive  route  for  steamers 
between  St.  Pierre  Island,  Newfoundland,  and  Halifax.  These  lakes 
also  form  the  natural  boundary  between  very  distinct  and  opposite  land- 
scape features,  that  of  the  northern  l)eing  mountainous  and  exceedingly 
romantic,  the  southern  low  and  comparatively  uninteresting. 

The  mineral  resources  have  recently  been  brought  to  our  notice 
through  the  great  enterprise  of  the  Dominion  Coal  Company,  with 
H.  M.  Whitney  at  it  head. 

Gypsum  is  also  a  staple  and  important  product  as  well  as  a  striking 
feature  in  the  landscape.  Of  the  nearly  ninety  thousand  inhabitants, 
over  ten  thousand  are  engaged  in  fishing.  We  cannot  but  believe  that 
when  Cape  Breton  becomes  better  known  it  will  rank  as  one  of  the 
great  summer  resorts  of  America.  Increasing  railroad  and  steamer 
facilities  are  making  this  possible,  while  the  unrivalled  climate,  uniciue 
land  and  water-scape  beauty,  and  unlimiteil  opportunity  for  sport  and 
recreation  make  it  more  than  probable. 

By  this  time  we  are  fairly  within  Lennox  Passage,  with  evidences  on 
every  hand  of  the  French  who  inhabit  Isle  Madame,  and  cruise  up  and 
down  the  shores  in  their  Frenchy- looking  schooners  and  fishing  smacks. 

BRAS  DOR    LAKES. 

Passing  through  the  great  government  canal  of  St.  Peter's,  the  course 
lies  cjnong  closely  bordering  shores  and  irregular  coves  and  headlands 
for  some  six  or  eijht  miles.  The  large  and  quaint  settlement  of  the 
Micmac  Indians  is  passed  midway,  its  white  Catholic  Church  standing 
out  as  a  landmark  for  some  miles.  It  is  on  these  islands  on  St.  Anne's 
day  that  the  Indians  hold  a  religious  encampment,  with  ceremonials  and 
processions  of  a  very  unique  kind,  —  a  pilgrimage  to  keep  alive  the 
faith  among  the  faint-hearted. 

A  tiny  white  lighthouse  at  Cape  George  marks  the  entrance  to  St. 
Peter's  Inlet,  or,  in  our  case,  the  exit.  Spread  before  the  delighted 
eyes  are  the  flashing  waters  of  the  Great  Bras  d'Or.  Nearly  twenty 
miles  across,  on  the  right,  reaching  its  golden  arm  far  into  the  island, 
lies  East  Bay ;  on  the  other  hand,  the  island-studded  waters  of  West 

69 


Bay  ;  the  two  making  a  salt  inland  sea  of  fifty  miles  in  length,  and  some- 
lliing  like  three  hundred  square  miles  area. 

Directly  ahead  is  the  nohle  hill  of  Henacadie,  at  its  left  the  Strait 
of  Barras,  or  (Irand  Narrows;  over  West  Bay,  Marble  Mountain  stands 
majestically,  while  along  the  shores  frecjuent  gleaming  plaster  cliffs 
accent  the  view,  and  green  islands  stand  at  anchor.  A  more  jjeriect 
sheet  of  water  for  canoeing  or  yachting  could  not  be  imagined,  for 
among  its  many  virtues  is  that  of  a  scarcely  perceptible  tide,  six  inches 
being  the  maximum  rise  and  fall.  Salmon,  cod,  mackerel,  lobsters, 
oysters,  smelt,  and  many  other  kinds  of  fish  abound  in  their  season ; 
while  water  fowl  fretiuent  the  coves  and  estuaries  in  great  numbers. 


u 


.'  I- 


GRAND   NARROWS. 

The  great  iron  bridge,  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  spanning  Barras  Strait, 
carries  the  Intercolonial  Railway,  and  connects  Sydney  and  the  interven- 
ing towns  with  the  outside  world.  At  this  point  a  little  setUement  has 
sprung  into  existence,  centred  about  the  hotel  and  two  or  three  stores. 
The  natural  beauties  of  the  place,  its  accessibility  and  central  location 
in  relation  to  the  whole  Bras  d'Or  region,  good  boating  and  bathing  as 
well,  are  destined  to  make  Grand  Narrows  one  of  the  ^rs/  resorts  ot 
Cape  Breton.  The  hotel  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  island,  the  views  in 
every  direction  full  of  variety  and  charm. 

From  this  point  one  can  make  with  comfort  trips  up,  down,  or  across 
the  lake,  by  rail  or  boat.     Northward  are  the  noble  lines  of  the  Bad- 


70 


1 

•^^ 

1 

i 

**• 

^ 

*i 

(Lj,nT;fe>of^'&ilgr»H 


k 


i  : 

f,  : 


deck  Mountains,  eastward  the  sweeping  iii)lanils  of  Honlarderie  Island, 
l)etween  these  and  the  l)ehoider  the  ever-varied  and  always  beautiful 
waters  of  the  Little  Bras  d'Or. 

We  will  leave  the  steamer  here  in  jiursuance  of  our  plan  as  suggestec', 
and  take  to  the  rail  again,  following  almost  continually  the  shore  from 
(Irancl  Narrows  to  Sydney.  It  is  after  leaving  Shenacadie  that  the 
glimpses  of  lake  and  mountain  begin  to  arrest  attention  ;  at  Boisdale  a 
magnificent  line  of  hills  skirts  the  shore,  and  the  grand  outlines  of  I-ong 
Islanil  burst  on  the  view,  separated  l)y  a  narrow  channel  from  the  main- 
land. For  several  miles  the  eye  will  be  held  l)y  a  succession  of  entranc- 
ing vistas,  all  the  while  surrounded  with  the  luxuries  of  a  modern  railway 
service. 


Little  Bras  d'Or  Lake  is  very  remarkably  connected  with  the  Atlantic 
by  two  narrow  channels,  between  which  lies  Boularderie  Island,  the 
southern  or  St.  Andrew  channel  we  have  been  following,  and  continue  to 
do  so  till  after  passing  Long  Island,  when  the  rail  turns  southward,  cross- 
ing and  skirting  arms  of  the  Sydney  Harbor,  finally  entering  the  town  of 


If  , 


'^, 


SYDNEY, 

the  largest  on  the  island  and  the  centre  of  a  vast  coal  region.  The 
immense  piers  running  far  out  into  the  harbor,  the  numerous  steamers 
and  vessels  of  all  types,  the  long  trains,  coal  laden,  all  speak  of  the  one 


72 


Icrio  Island, 
xys  beautiful 

as  suggestet', 
shore  from 
die  that  the 
.t  Boisdaie  a 
ines  of  I-ong 
n  the  maiii- 
n  of  entranc- 
idern  railway 


the  Atlantic 

Island,  the 

I  continue  to 

liward,  cross- 

t  the  town  of 


egion.  The 
3us  steamers 
c  of  the  one 


great  industry.  The  town  is  not  especially  notable,  being  on  the  \)w- 
gressive  stage,  with  every  prosjject  of  a  brilliant  future.  One  or  two  of 
the  older  streets  are  very  quaint,  and  contain  frecpient  hints  of  the  days 
when  the  French  were  more  numerous.  .\  large  and  motlern  hotel  has 
just  been  erected  here,  with  the  intent  to  satisfy  tlie  demands  of  the 
constantly  increasing  tourist  patronage. 

This  is  the  eastern  terminal  of  the  Intercolonial,  and  the  most  eastern 
point  to  which  any  railway  extends  in  America  ;  a  coal  railway  runs 
trains  of  a  mixed  character  southward  to  the  coal  mines  and  to  Louis- 
burg.     The  Bras  d'Or  steamer  line  also  has  its  terminal  here. 

Sydney's  importance  as  a  port  may  be  judged  by  the  fact  that  in  one 
year,  that  of  1892,  over  fourteen  hundred  vessels,  mostly  steamers, 
entered  and  cleared,  also  that  her  export  of  coal  amounted  to  over  two 
hundred  thousand  tons.  Estimates  of  experts,  based  on  former  tests  of 
duration  of  seams,  indicate  that  Sydney  district  has  /wo  billion  tons  of 
available  coal !  The  seams  vary  from  three  to  twelve  feet  in  thickness, 
and  ninety  to  four  hundred  in  width,  extending  in  many  instances  far 
out  under  the  .Atlantic. 

HISTORIC   LOUISBURG. 

To  him  who  has  a  fondness  for  history  or  anticpes,  to  the  American 
especially,  the  annals  of  this  fortress  of  the  east  must  be  particularly 
fascinating.  Of  the  twenty  miles  between  Sydney  and  Louisburg  little 
can  be  said  ;  it  is  intensely  uninteresting. 

Over  the  portal  of  Gore  Hall  at  Harvard  College  ^ 
is  fixed  a  quaint  wrought-iron  cross,  brought  by  the 
colonial  troops  from  Louisburg 
as  a  trophy;  in  the  grounds  of 
a  well-known  physician  of  Syd- 
ney stands  a  curious  cannon  of 
the  swivel  pattern,  rescued  from 
the  waters  of  Louisburg  Harbor  ; 
so  far  as  known  these  are  all  the 
existing  relics  of  the  once-power- 
ful stronghold. 

Standing  on  the  few  remaining 
earthworks  at  Louisburg,  looking   around  on  the  grassy  mounds  that 
indicate  the  oudines  of  the  once  massive  walls,  "  curiosity  is  lost  in  won- 
der, wonder  gives  way  to  reflection,  and  reflection  leads  straight  to  the 
question,  'What  do  all  these  miles  of  earthworks  mean?'"     Drake,  in 

73  .    -r.r" 


his  "taking  of  Kouisbiirg,"  gives  a  concise  history  of  this  remarkahlc 
fortress,  which  is  more  than  the  space  or  intent  of  this  httle  volume 
permits. 

"  In  creating  l-ouishurg  the  court  of  Versailles  had  far  more  extended 
views  than  the  building  of  a  strong  fortress  to  guard  the  gateway  into 
Canada  would  of  itself  imply."  We  read  from  Parkman's  fascinating 
pages  of  the  ambitions  and  hopes  of  the  French  in  .\nierica,  of  the 
importance  of  (Quebec,  that  (jueenly  city  of  the  north,  and  the  intended 
relative  jjosition  Louisburg  was  to  hold  on  the  southern  limits  of  .\cadia. 
It  was  after  the  treaty  of  Utrecht,  in  1713,  that  action  began,  and  in 
thirty  years  was  created  at  an  expense  of  nearly  five  millions  (of  present 
money  value)  a  fortress  that  was  known  as  the  Dunkirk  of  .America. 

The  taking  of  I.ouisburg  by  a  raw  army  of  recruits  and  vohuiteers  ot 
New  luigland  in  1 745  is  one  of  the  marvels  of  military  history,  a  sur- 
jtrise  to  the  world,  an  everlasting  memorial  to  the  valor  and  pluck  of 
sturdy  Capt.  Pepperell  and  his  New  England  yeomen. 


!■  1 


BRAS   DOR  AGAIN. 

If  there  is  one  tri))  to  be  named  above  another  on  the  island,  it  is  that 
of  the  steamer  from  Sydney  to  Baddeck,  Whycogomagh,  or  Ckand 
Narrows  via  (Ireat  Rras  d'Or.  Leaving  Sydney  at  a  comfortable  hour  in 
the  morning,  the  "  Marion  "  crosses  to  the  thriving  rival  town  of  North 
Sydney,  and  then  puts  out  to  sea  past  the  red  cliffs  of  Cranberry  Head, 
with  its  great  smoke-stacks  and  colliery  elevators,  the  works  of  the  Syd- 
ney mines,  and  around  the  giant  blocks  and  columns  of  Point  Aconi. 

Then  the  course  lies  southwest  into  the  narrow  portal  of  Great  Bras 
d'Or,  jiast  the  sandy  bar  that  all  but  closes  the  entrance,  and  up  close 
under  the  shadow  of  Kelley's  Mountain,  which  here  rises  twelve  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  cove  bearing  the  same  name. 

There  are  many  conjectures  as  to  the  origin  of  this  "  Jrm  of  Gold." 
We  prefer  to  accept  it  as  an  evidence  of  the  imaginative  (lualities  of  the 
Breton  settlers  who  gave  the  name  ;  its  appropriateness  is  manifest  to 
him  who  for  the  first  time  looks  upon  the  "  greater  arm."  From  the 
entrance  to  the  end  of  the  channel  near  Baddeck,  the  waters  seldom 
exceed  a  mile  in  width,  in  one  place  less  than  a  half-mile  and  are  over- 
looked by  the  wild  summits  of  the  Englishtown  Mountains,  and  dotted 
by  many  wooded  isles.  In  two  or  three  instances  the  stui^endous  chalk 
cliffs  disclose  themselves  from  their  [forest  surroundings,  like  marble 
palaces  in  a  primeval  wilderness. 

74 


:j. -U..yi;iiii.i)«i ifimi'ii  ----fTniigr~^"r"— 


rcmarkaldc 
ttlc  voliinif 

re  cxtcndctl 
[atc'way  into 

fascinating 
rica,  of  tliu 
he  intenik'il 
s  of  Acadia. 
:gan,  and  in 

(of  present 
nierica. 
ohmteers  ot 
story,  a  sur- 
nd  pluck  of 


•nd,  it  is  tiiat 
I,  or  (kand 
able  hour  in 
in  of  North 
berry  Head, 
of  the  Syd- 
iit  Aconi. 
■  Great  Bras 
nd  up  close 
twelve  hun- 

m  of  Goldr 
alities  of  the 

manifest  to 
From  the 
Iters  seldom 
id  are  over- 
,  and  dotted 
indous  chalk 

like  marble 


BADDECK. 

At  tile  broadest  portion  of  Little  Bras  d'Or  Lake  a  l)ay  nnis  up  into 
the  hills,  at  the  entrance  of  which  stands  the  finest  residence  on  tiie 
island,  tlie  summer  home  of  Prof.  liell,  the  inventor  of  the  American 
telephone  ;  on  the  other  side,  behind  a  forest-covered  island  and  its 
lighthouse,  a  straggling  town  with  spires  outlined  against  <lark  hills  ;  it 
is  Baddeck,  known  to  all  well-read  Americans  through  Charles  Dudley 
Warner's  "  Baddeck  and  that  Sort  of  Thing." 

To  this  out  of  the 
way,  jiriniitive,  i)ictur- 
escjue  town  have  come  a 
few  cultured  .Americans, 
who  are  forming  a  social 
nucleus  to  which  will  be 
aikled  the  choicest  spirits 
of  the  resort  that  is  to 
be.  Perhaps  not  a  great 
and  fashionable  resort, 
but  such  as  will  attract 
and  hold  the  lover  of 
Nature  for  her  own  sake. 
The  motto  of  this  pio- 
neer settlement  seems 
to  be,  "Once  Baddeck, 
always  Baddeck." 

The  origin  of  this 
odd  name  is  the  Indian 
"  Bedek,"  adapted  by 
French  as  Bedeque.  The 
town  itself  is  not  alluring, 
but  its  environment  may 
be  described  in  most  ex- 
travagant .v.rms.  Within 
easy  distances  are  most 
glorious  mountain  and 
lake  scenery  ;  a  score  of 

mountain  streams  and  rivers  fill  the  air  with  singing  and  roaring,  and 
yield  lusty  trout  and  salmon.  The  famed  Margaree  River,  first  of 
Nova  Scotian  salmon  streams,  lies  twenty  miles  away  ;  St.  Anne's  Bay. 
most  beautiful  of  all  on  the  island,  but  ten  miles   northeasterly ;    and 


I 


75 


in- 1 


^■--^^•^^■iiMfiiff  inaUtiiu 


lieyund,  the  wild  iiorllicrii  sliorc  slretdKs  away  to  Int,Miiisli,  buunil 
l)y  a  line  of  stiipciitlons  cliffs  and  mountains,  back  of  tlicni  the  vast 
tal.lelands   of    Victoria   County,  lovered    with   iniineval    forests,    over 

which  roam  tnidisturbed  great 
herds  of  caribou.  A  drive  along 
this  coast,  or,  better,  a  journey 
afoot,  depiudiiig  on  the  warm  and 
homely  hosjiitalily  of  tlie  Ciaelic 
settlers,  reveals  a  mode  of  living 
that  for  absolute  primitiveness  is 
nowhere  e(inalled  on  our  continent. 
Here  are  seen  grinding  of  corn 
by  hand-stones,  timber  hewn  in  a 
similar  crude  manner,  or  sawn  by 
mills,  home  made ;  while  from 
every  door  comes  the  sound  of 
spinning-wheel  or  click  of  shuttle 
in  the  family  loom.  Not  less 
interesting  are  the  Micmac  In- 
dians, who  pitch  their  wigwams  on  the  hillside  at  Haddeck,  their  per- 
manent settlements  being  at  Indian  Cove  and  at  Kscasoni  near  drand 
Narrows. 


WHYCOCOMAGH. 

Leaving  Baddeck  and  following  the  steamer  route  through  St.  Pat- 
rick's Channel  and  Little  Narrows  leads  one  to  the  western  extremity  of 
the  lake,  and  into  the  trossach  scenery  of  the  bay  and  town  of  Whyco- 
comagh.  If  its  name  is  a  stumbling-block,  let  nothing  else  deter  from 
finding  it  out.  It  is  a  gem  of  purest  quality,  a  bit  of  Scotland,  it  would 
seem,  imported  with  the  hardy  Scot  as  a  reminder  of  his  native  bens 
and  lochs. 

From  here  are  reached  the  inland  lake  of  Ainslie,  and  the  trout 
streams  that  flow  from  and  into  it ;  more  distant  are  the  Gulf  shore 
towns  and  coal  areas  soon  to  be  reached  by  rail  of  Fort  Hood  and 
Mabou,  and  away  up  north  in  for  Inverness  County  the  French  Acadian 
fishing  port  of  Cheticamp.  It  may  not  be  amiss  to  add  that  in  this 
town,  which  the  natives  call  "  Hogomah  "  for  brevity,  is  a  comfortable 
and  attractive  hotel,  that  provides  all  the  game  delicacies  in  their  season. 

Having  briefly  hinted  at  the  wealth  of  good  things  that  nature  has 
bestowed  on  "this  land  whereon  the  sun  first  shines,"  we  reluctantly 


76 


nish,  bound 
LMU  tlic  vast 
'orcsts,  over 
rhetl     great 

drive  along 
.  a  journey 
ie  warm  anil 

tlie  Ciaelic 
Ilk'  of  living 
iiitiveness  is 
urrontinent. 
ing  of  corn 
■r  hewn  in  a 

or  sawn  by 

while  from 
le  sound  of 
k  of  shuttle 
.  Not  less 
Micmac  In- 
k,  their  per- 

near  drand 


lugh  St.  Pat- 
extremity  of 
1  of  Whyco- 
i  deter  from 
uid,  it  would 
native  bens 

nd  the  trout 

;  Gulf  shore 

t   Hood  and 

:nch  Acadian 

that  in  this 

comfortable 

their  season. 

it  nature  has 

e  reluctantly 


leave  it  l)y  the  portion  of  railway  whidi  we  omitted  in  our  steamer 
detour  through  the  lakes.  From  ('.rand  Narrows,  then,  to  Mawkesbury, 
we  ( rossed  first  the  great  iron  bridge  of  the  government,  through  whi.h 
vessels  are  allowed  to  i)ass  at  all  times  ex.  ept  wiien  dosed  for  trains, 
and  along  the  irregular  shore,  catching  aggravating  glimpses  of  bay  and 
island,  distant  mountain  an.l  broad  lake  ;  past  stations  that  seemingly 
have  no  excuse  for  being,  till  we  learn  tliat  scores  of  little  settlements 
inland  find  through  them  an  outlet  from  their  isolation. 

Orangedale  is  the  station  for  that  town  whose  name  we  fear  to  speak, 
Whycocomagh,  and  the  terminal  of  the  railway  imder  construction  that 
is  to  tap  the  great  coal  areas  northward,  to  oi)en  also  the  wonderfully 
beautifully  country  of  the  .\inslie  region.  From  Orangedale  westward 
the  view  is  tame  and  uninteresting,  till  Cape  Porcupine  breaks  upon  the 
view  again,  and  the  aninuited  panorama  of  Strait  of  t'anso.  and  busy 
Port  Hawkesbury,  where  our  transfer  steamer  is  waiting  to  bear  us  across 
to  the  Scotian  mainland,  to  scenes  of  old  .Xcadia,  —        • 

"  Wlicie  lilomidon's  blue  crest  looks  down  upon  the  v.illcy  land, 
And  the  nre.it  waves  of  Kundy  lap  the  gray  stones  on  the  strand  ; 
Where  sunny  Gaspereaux  sweeps  on  amid  the  upple-trees, 
And  the  blue  waves  of  Minas  chant  a  rcc|iiiein  to  the  breeze." 


77 


liliillV    \N1>  HIE  ANNAHOl  IS  IIAnIN -ANNAPOLIS  AND   IHK  VAI.IKV 
1  VANdKI.INKS    I.AND-MINAS    llASIN  —  HAI.H'AX,    AND 
THK  SOI  Til   SHOKi;. 


\v  the  traveller  has  Ni)va  Scutia  for  the  objective  pointy 
the  voyage  i)ar  excellence  is  by  the  shore  route  we  have 
tlescribecl  to  St.  John  ;  thence  across  the  Hay  of  Fundy, 
by  steamer  "  Monticello,"  through  the  Digbydut  to 
(juaint  old  I)igl)y  town,  aiul  through  Annapolis  liasin  to 
Annapolis. 

The  above  steamer  lies  at  its  wharf  adjoining  that  of  the  Interna- 
tional Company,  thus  obviating  disagreeable  transfers  across  town. 

Many  unpleasant  things  are  said  of  Fundy's  temper,  but  in  its  sum- 
mer moods  it  gives  them  all  the  lie,  whatever  its  actions  may  be  in  other 
seasons  when  the  elements  combine  with  the  tides  to  try  men's  souls; 
inileed  a  more  charming  sail  than  that  across  to  .Annapolis  could  scarce 
be  imagined  ;  in  miles  it  is  sixty,  in  time  four  anil  one  half  hours. 

The  Acadian  shore  first  reveals  itself  in  little  purplish  mounds  that 
rest  like  cK  .diets  along  the  dim  hori/on,  then  a  long  line  of  cliff-bound 
shores  melting  away  into  nothingness  at  either  end,  finally  as  a  great 
mountain  wall,  into  whose  sides  a  narrow  i)ortal  opens,  and  toward  which 
our  good  steamer  steadily  ploughs.  .Xs  we  run  between  the  rugged 
shores.  I'oint  Prim  and  its  light  on  the  one  hand,  the  little  fishing  town 
of  Lower  (Iranville  on  the  other,  a  scene  of  (piite  opposite  and  entirely 
unifpie  loveliness  opens  out.  This  is  the  foir  land  and  placid  waters 
that  greeted  Champlain  and  De  Monts,  wooing  them  to  its  shores,  and 
giving  to  the  world  those  leaves  in  history  inscribed  with  the  romantic 
annals  of  Port  Royal. 


,'AI.I.KY- 
[D 


jectivc  point 
oute  we  liave 
ay  ot"  Fiimly, 
)igl)y  (lilt  to 
)olis  IJasin  to 


the  Interna- 
i  town, 
t  in  its  sum- 
y  be  in  other 
men's  souls ; 
could  scarce 
hours. 

mounds  that 
)f  cliff-bound 
ly  as  a  great 
toward  wiiich 
1  the  rugged 
fishing  town 
and  entirely 
placid  waters 
s  shores,  and 
the  romantic 


■ari.rtrJUmm^ 


v&ra'liraiufcli  fc-w 


a-i*"-    •'-lilB'jMiVir 


DIGBY   AND   ANNAPOLIS   BASIN. 

l-'roiii  Hryer  Island,  fifty  miles  southwest,  to  hoary  Cape  Hlomidon, 
eighty  miles  northeasterly,  stretches  a  mountain  bulwark  sheltering  from 
fog  and  tempest  St.  Mary's  Bay,  Annapolis  Basin,  the  fruitful  valleys  of 
Annapolis  and  Cornwallis,  the  broad  acres  of  Grand  Pr^,  and  the  green 
banks  of  the  Avon. 

M  the  foot  of  the  basin  little  Digby  sits  in  the  sunshine  and  spreads 
its  ruddy  beach  along  the  tide,  surrountled  by  towering  hills,  except 
where  well-tilied  slopes  give  place.  It  is  a  quaint,  homy  town,  old 
colonial  houses  here  and  there,  a  cluster  of  gray  and  mossy  fishing  huts 
nestling  by  the  cove  and  guns  that  never  roar  on  the  bluffs  that  face  the 
pier.  Two  gooil  and  (]uiet  houses  entertain  the  traveller ;  a  half-dozen 
picturesque  roads  lure  him  out  into  the  country,  and  the  railway  leads 
to  far  western  Yarmouth  town  along  the  beautiful  bay  of  St.  Maiy's, 
and  out  again  in  view  of  Fundy  ;  back  of  it,  a  little  way  only,  stretch 
illimitable  forests,  with  silent  lakes  and  all  that  live  therein  to  attract  the 
rod  or  gun.  The  rail  also  skirts  the  bay  if  one  chooses  to  go  that  way, 
through  Bear  River  Village,  Pleasant  Cove,  and  half  a  score  of  thrifty 
hamlets  to  Annapolis. 

Continuing  by  steamer,  we  pass  Bear  Island  mid-basin,  and  up  the 
gradually  narrowing  bay  lined  with  farms  that  teem  with  fruitfulness  and 
plenty,  overlooked  by  the  slopes  of  the  North  Mountains  and  the  spires 
of  Granville's  churches.  .After  twenty  miles  of  delightful  sailing  we 
approach  the  storied  old  town  and  huge  fortifications  of 


i 


ANNAPOLIS, 

tile  Port  Royal  of  ye  olden  time,  and  the  focal  point  around  which 
clusters  more  history  than  any  town  in  this  Acadian  Valley  into  which 
we  are  entering.  Founded  by  Poutrincourt  in  1604,  to  whom  it  was 
granted,  it  was  soon  abandoned,  to  be  resettled  by  the  Jesuits  later, 
demolished  by  the  English  in  16 13,  and  again  partially  rebuilt  by  Bien- 
court,  who  kept  alive  a  fur-trading  post  till  Acadia's  restoration  to  the 
French  in  1632. 

For  a  century  and  a  half  Port  Royal  was  tossed  back  and  forth 
between  the  rival  powers,  till  its  final  capture  by  the  New  England 
colonists,  after  which  it  became  Annapolis  Royal  and  the  English  strong- 
hold of  Acadia.  The  discontented  Acadians  and  Indian  allies  main- 
tained a  petty  siege  for  forty  years  after,  until  that  tragic  but  necessary 
event  which  we  have  learned  more  generally  from  Longfellow's  idyll  than 

80 


le  Blomidon, 
altering  from 
fill  valleys  of 
nd  the  green 

and  spreads 

hills,  except 

ny  town,  old 

y  fishing  huts 

that  face  the 

a  half-dozen 

railway  leads 

f  St.  Maiy's, 

only,  stretch 

to  attract  the 

go  that  way, 

are  of  thrifty 

,  and  up  the 
litfulness  and 
nd  the  spires 
111  sailing  we 


iround  which 
ey  into  which 
whom  it  was 
Jesuits  later, 
juilt  by  Bien- 
iration  to  the 

ick  and  forth 
Mew  England 
nglish  strong- 
1  allies  niain- 
but  necessary 
)w's  idyll  than 


from  other  sources,  and  which  brought  peace,  to  be  broken  only  by  tiiat 
saucy  and  si)unky  attack  by  Americans  in  1781,  who  spiked  the  guns, 
locked  the  villagers  uj)  in  the  block  house,  and  proceeded  to  decorate 
with  vermilion  whatever  the  town  contained. 

From  tiie  grassy  ramparts  which  are  seen  on  approaching  the  town 
now  are  heard  the  mellow  blast  from  browsing  kine,  whose  rustic  forms 
replace  the  dismounted  guns.  The  old  block  house  but  recently  suc- 
cumbed to  the  destroyer's  hand ;  the  French  magazine  and  ancient 
barracks  will  doubtless  follow  them,  unprotected  as  they  are  by  a  care- 
less community. 

The  present  .Annapolis  invites  the  loiterer,  with  its  shady  streets  and 
quaint  residences,  its  air  of  anticpiity  and  the  indefinable  sentiment  that 
always  clings  about  such  spots.  The  Dominion  .Atlantic  Railway 
here  extends  to  the  landing,  its  trains  waiting  to  speed  the  tourist  into 
Acadia's  heart,  the  land  of  Evangeline,  "  The  Tourists'  Paradise,"  as  its 
dainty  little  guide-book  calls  it. 

If  a  few  days  can  be  given  to  this  fair  region,  a  drive  or  climb  over 
North  Mountain  down  to  the  rugged  cliffs  on  the  Fundy  shore  should  be 
taken,  another  through  the  marshes  and  orchards  of  Annapolis,  for  — 

"  Fair  is  I'ort  Koyal  River 
In  tile  Acadian  land ; 
It  flows  through  verdant  meadows, 
Widespread  on  either  hand  "; 

and  again  along  little  Lequille  River  to  the  village  of  legendary  fame  ; 
while  to  the  fisherman  and  gunner  no  words  can  fitly  tell  the  treasures 
that  lie  along  the  wilderness  road  all  the  way  to  Liverpool  and  Port 
Metway.  Lakes,  streams,  virgin  forest,  all  are  there  in  primal  condition. 
The  companion  of  the  idle  hour  should  be  Miss  McLeod's  "  Stories  of 
the  Land  of  Evangeline,"  many  of  whose  scenes  are  laid  just  here. 

ANNAPOLIS   VALLEY. 

From  Annapolis  to  Windsor  is  the  trtte  Evangeline  land,  "  the  land 
flowing  with  milk  and  honey"  ;  in  May  a  garden  of  apple-blossoms,  in 
October  an  orchard  of  ripening  fruit,  and  always  radiant  in  a  climate  fit 
for  the  gods.  One  is  carried  in  the  luxurious  cars  of  the  "  Flying  Blue- 
nose  "  express,  drawn  by  "  Basil,"  the  blacksmith,  or  "  Gabriel,"  the 
lover,  is  disappointed  not  to  see  an  Acadian  peasant  collecting  fares, 
instead  of  the  gentlemanly  conductor  in  regulation  uniform,  and  looks, 
as  did  Warner,  for  the  signboard  reading,  "  Look  out  for  Evangeline 
while  the  bell  rings .' "  How  little  our  gentle  poet  knew  what  potent 
advertising  he  was  doing  for  railroad  managers  ! 

81 


If" 


■-  l?.«fc^ai?SrS!T't£?*^TB 


m  ■ 


n 


I 


The  beautiful  marshes,  bordered  by  solid  masses  of  bronze-green 
foliage,  and  varying  with  the  ever-changing  cloud  shadows  from  gold  to 
purple,  serve  as  a  ground  on  which  the  tidal  stream  executes  silvery 
patterns  for  miles,  until  lost  in  thread-like  rivulets  among  the  hillr. 

North  Mountain  always  fills  the  background,  its  broad  slopes  covered 
with  an  applique  of  patches  of  woodland  green  and  tawny  fields,  with 
now  anil  then  a  bit  of  winding  road  or  gleaming  farmhouse  adding  a 
touch  of  light. 

Bridgetown  is  the  only  considerable  town  en  route  to  Kentville,  and 
looks  for  all  the  world  like  a  smart  American  village,  with  its  covered 
bridge  and  Gothic  spire.  At  Middleton  the  Nova  Scotia  Central  Rail- 
way, the  only  one  except  that  by  which  we  are   travelling  to  reach  the 


82 


;s  of  bronze-green 
tlows  from  gold  to 
m  executes  silvery 
long  the  hillr. 
■oacl  slopes  covered 
i  tawny  fields,  with 
irrnhouse  adding   a 

•  to  Kentville,  and 
e,  with  its  covered 
Scotia  Central  Rail- 
elling  to  reach  the 


•^i--" 


:^'^. 


south  shore,  branches  off  for  Lunenburg,  IJridgewatcr,  and  the  regions  of 
beauty  in  their  vicinity,  chiefest  of  which  is  Mahone  Hay,  with  its  mul- 
titude of  islands,  silvery  beaches,  and  rocky  iieadlands. 

Leaving  Middleton,  the  river  gra<lually  dwindles,  settlements  become 
fewer  and  smaller,  then  the  Cornwallis  begins,  leading  onward  to  Minas 
Basin  district,  its  dike  lands  and  Acadian  villages. 

KENTVILLE,  WOLFVILLE,  GRAND  PRE 

The  railway  centre  of  the  "  Land  of  Kvangeline  Route,"  as  much  also 
the  commercial  centre  of  Kings  County,  the  terminal  o.  the  railway 
running  to  Kingsport,  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Canard  River,  and  old 
Blomidon's  territory,  convenient  to  the  beautiful  C.aspereaux  Lakes  and 
the  Blue  Mountains  just  south,  is  Kentville. 

More  attractive,  less  commercial,  pre-eminently  scholastic,  and 
nearer  the  Grand  Pr6  fields  is  VVolfville.  It  staniis  on  the  edge  of  the 
marsh,  partly  on  a  lovely  hillside,  which  overlooks  the  Basin  of  Minas 
and  Blomidon  on  one  side,  the  fairyland  of  the  Gaspereaux  on  the  other. 
The  handsome  buildings  of  Acadia  College  and  two  or  three  prei)ara- 
tory  schools  occupy  the  most  commanding  site  in  town,  whose  outlook 
is  a  liberal  education  in  itself. 

Here  one  can  wander  at  will  over  the  fields  reclaimed  by  the  .Acadian 
peasants,  follow  for  miles  the  dikes  that  stay  the  tides  in  their  mad 
advance,  and  live  under  the  spell  that  poesy  has  woven  about  these 
waters :  — 

"  A  grievous  stream,  that  to  and  fro 
Athrough  the  fields  of  Acadie 
Goes  wandering,  as  if  to  know 
Why  one  beloved  tace  should  be 
So  long  from  home  and  Acadie." 

Standing  on  the  dikes  at  high  tide,  on  one  hand  are  glassy  miles  of 
flood,  on  the  other  rippling  fields  of  ripening  harvests,  or  contented 
herds  which  crop  the  rich  sward,  —  a  contrast  unique  and  strange,  whose 
strangeness  lessens  not  after  many  visits. 

Three  miles  away  is  the  dreamy  hamlet  of  Grand  Pr^,  nestling 
among  elms  and  apple-trees,  keeping  alive  the  name  bestowed  by  those 
people  whom  history  has  proven  not  undeserving  of  their  fate,  but 
whose  memories  live  in  romance  like  dream  faces,  undyingly ;  best 
described  in  the  poet's  own  lines  :  — 

"  In  the  Ac.idian  land,  on  the  shores  of  the  Basin  of  Minas, 
Distant,  secluded,  still,  the  little  village  of  Grand  Pre 
Lay  in  the  fruitful  valley.    Vast  meadows  stretched  to  the  eastward 
Giving  the  village  its  name,  and  pasture  to  flocks  without  number. 

83 


1 


West  ami  s.mth  there  were  fields  ..f  tlax.  and  orchards  and  crnhelds 
Spreading  alar  and  nnfence.l  oVr  the  pUun ;  and  away  to  tlie  northward 
ISIoM.idon  rose,  and  the  forests  old,  and  aloft  on  the  mountanis 
Seafo«s  pitched  their  tents,  and  mists  from  the  mighty  Atlantic         _ 
Looked  on  the  happy  valley,  but  ne'er  from  their  station  descended. 

Close  bv  the  railway  are  the  imlistinct  remains  ..f  the  ancient  town, 
willows  ma;king  the  line  of  the  street,  an  old  well,  the  village  s.inare  ; 
over  the  meadows  at  Barton  Landing  is  the  shore  whence  sailed  the 
exiled  band.  Passing  through  the  village,  with  here  and  there  a  home 
built  bv  Puritan  settlers.  an<l  their  .luaint  colonial  church,  one  soon 
reaches  the  stimmer  home  of  Judge  Weatherbee,  "St.  Kulalie,"  grace- 
fullv  named,  where  Gaspereaux  River  again  is  seen,  and  .ndistmct  traces 
of  the  highway  of  the  Acadians,  winding  down  to  the  vale  •'  Amitl  its 
yellowing  sea  of  flowers."  a  few  gnarled  apple-trees  preserved  by  loving 
hands,  remnants  of  broken  homes. 

"  Ye  exiled  sons  of  lily  France  ! 

This  is  no  more  your  dwelling  place ; 

But  oft  as  purple  eventide 

Mathcs  all  these  hills  in  fire  and  dew. 
Some  wanderer  by  the  river-side 

Shall  drop  a  tear  and  dream  of  you." 

MINAS   BASIN. 

If  the    \nnapolis  Valley  is  a  spot  to  lure  and  detain  for  indefinite 
periods  the  traveller,  then  the  Basin  of  Minas  with  its  northern  shore, 
amazing,  striking,  exhilarating,  calls  loudly  for  an  equal  share  of  atten- 
tion     Accessible  by  the  steamer  leaving  Hantsport,  or  the  Evangeline 
Navigation  Company's  line  from  Kingsport  to  Parrsboro',  the  finest  and 
most  awe-inspiring  views  of  Blomidon  from  all  sides  are  obtained.     The 
latter  company's  steamer  runs  out  under  the  cape,  and  around  it  into 
full  view  of  the  entire  basin.     .Across  the  bay  are  the  noble  Cobequid 
Mountains,  Sugar  Loaf  dominating  the  range  ;  at  their  feet  the  glowing 
reddish  and  white  masses  of  the  Five  Islands,  and  great  cliffs  of  Frazers 
Head,  especially  interesting  to  an  artist  or  geologist.      Following  the 
shore  westward  the  eye  rests  on  distant  Parrsboro'  first,  then  on  Par- 
tridge Island,  Cape  Sharp,  Ram  Head,  fully  sustaining  its  right  to  such 
a  name,  and  far  away  the  receding  curves  of  Greville  B^)'-  ^om  out 
which  looms  the  majestic  headlands  of  Cape  Spencer  and  Cap  D  Or, 
terminals  of  the  great  Peninsula  of  Cumberland  County. 

When  midway  of  the  basin,  Blomidon  discloses  all  the  columns  of 
its  basaltic  formation,  clothed,  as  befits  a  'dngl/  form,  in  purple  hues ; 

84 


[1  cnniliflds 
tlic  northward 
tains 
tlantic 
Ifsccndcd." 

le  ancient  town, 
e  village  s<niare  ; 
hence  sailed  the 
ml  there  a  home 
hurch,  one  soon 
;.  Kulalie,"  grace- 
:l  indistinct  traces 
e  vale  "  Aniid  its 
eserved  by  lo\ing 


tain  for  indefinite 
ts  northern  shore, 
lal  share  of  atten- 
or  the  Evangeline 
iro',  the  finest  and 
ire  obtained.     The 
md  around  it  into 
le  noble  Cobequid 
ir  feet  the  glowing 
:at  cliffs  of  Frazer's 
it.      Following  the 
first,  then  on  Par- 
g  its  right  to  such 
alle  Bay,  from  out 
:er  and  Cap  D'Or, 

mty. 

all  the  columns  of 
m,  in  purple  hues  ; 


^^%-^"^ 


adjoining  it  is 
still    another 
gigantic  freak  of  nature, 
Cape  Split,  a  detached 
column  of  rock   like  a 
monument     to     some 
fallen     aboriginal    war- 
rior,   defying   all    time 
and  elements.    Between 
it  and  Cape  Sharp,  less 
than   three   miles    away,  the 
savage  currents  of  incoming 
and  outgoing  tides  snarl  and  roar. 
Everything  here  is  on  a  inagnificent 
scale.    Little  wonder  that  it  should 
have  been  the  home  of  Gluska]), 
to    the    Indian's    fancy,    and    the 
scene  of  many  of  his   wondrous 
carousals  and  feats  1      Arriving  at 
Parrsboro',  the  visitor  will  find  a 
comfortable  hotel,  and  should  spend  time  enough   to  drive  along  the 
truly  remarkable  shores  to  Economy  on  one  side  and  Advocate  Harbor 
on  the  other,  and  the  great  coal  mines  inland.     Rail  connection  is  from 
here  made  with  the  Intercolonial  —  as  noted  in  a  former  section  — at 
Spring  Hill  Junction. 

85 


: 


I 


\ 


WINDSOR. 

Leaving  Grand  I'rc^  or  Wolfville  the  route  loa<ls  tlirough  the  Inisy 
little  shipbuilding  town  of  Hantsport,  where  one  may  see  oftentimes  a 
score  of  vessels  reclining  at  various  angles  on  tiie  muddy  banks,  or  float- 
ing well  up  to  the  level  of  the  marshes,  as  the  tide  may  determine, 
crosses  the  broad  waters  of  the  Avon  and  stops  at  one  of  the  most 
interesting  and  beautiful  towns  in  Nova  Scotia,  Windsor. 

Of  course  every  guide-book  ever  written  telis  you  that  "  Sam  Slick  " 
lived  here,  that  on  the  hill  near  the  station  stand  the  block  house,  maga- 
zine, and  barracks  of  Fort  Kdward,  with  Annapolis'  ruins  — the  possession 
of  the  Crown  ;  that  King's  College,  oldest  of  B:ngland's  colonial  univer- 
sities, is  here,  dating  from  i  790,  and  that  it  was  one  of  the  oldest  and 
largest  of  the  Acadian  settlements ;  but  it  cannot  convey  to  you  the 
subtle  charm  of  the  landscape,  attaining  its  fullest  expression  as  seen 
from  the  college  grounds,  nor  put  into  adequate  Knglish  the  foreign  air 
that  pervades  the  place  ;  in  the  latter  respect  it  approaches  Halifax, 
from  which  it  is  distant  forty-six  miles. 

One's  first  impression  of  Windsor  may  not  be  pleasing,  as  the  old 
portion  near  the  river  is  more  picturesciue  than  tidy  ;  its  post-office  and 
court  house  are  promises  of  better  things  to  come.  It  will  be  a  matter 
of  surprise  to  learn  that  this  is  third  among  ship  owning  towns  in  Canada, 
and  that  its  gold  mine,  a  few  miles  south,  is  actually  a  paying  invest- 
ment. The  most  novel  effects  of  the  tides  are  again  seen  here.  Warner 
remarked  that  he  "  never  knew  before  how  much  water  adds  to  a  river  ! " 
It  may  not  be  amiss  to  mention  that  bne  of  Canada's  first  poets,  widely 
read  in  the  United  States,  C.  G.  D.  Roberts,  has  his  home  here,  occupy- 
ing the  chair  of  English  Literature  in  King's  College. 

The  journey  hence  to  Halifax  is  not  interesting  although  brief,  leading 
through  wilderness  and  flat  lantls. 

HALIFAX. 

This  interesting  city  deserves  a  long  and  complete  chapter  by  itself, 
and  it  is  fitting  that  it  should  serve  as  a  climax  to  all  that  has  gone 
before.  Its  chief  interest  to  the  visiting  American  is  its  decided  English 
tone  and  aspect ;  in  this  particular  it  is  perhaps  more  individual  than 
any  other  Canadian  city,  save  Montreal. 

Possessed  of  one  of  the  finest  harbors  of  the  world,  finer  than  any  on 
the  Atlantic  coast  at  least,  and  with  a  system  of  fortifications  most  com- 


86 


rough  the  Inisy 
;e  oftentimes  a 
banks,  or  float- 
may  determine, 
ic  of  the  most 

It  "  Sam  Slick  " 
:k  house,  maga- 
—  the  possession 
colonial  univer- 

the  oldest  and 
vey  to  you  the 
iression  as  seen 

the  foreign  air 
oaches  Halifax, 

sing,  as  the  old 

post-office  and 

will  be  a  matter 

owns  in  Canada, 

I  paying  invest- 

II  here.  Warner 
idds  to  a  river  !" 
•St  poets,  widely 
le  here,  occupy- 

igh  brief,  leading 


chapter  by  itself, 

1  that  has  gone 

decided  English 

individual  than 

finer  than  any  on 
itions  most  com- 


plete and  redoubtable  in  the  New  World,  Halifax  is  easily  .pieen  of  the 
northern  seas  and  secure  from  the  attacks  of  any  maritime  power. 

Though  less  ancient  than  the  i)ort  of  La  Have  on  the  southern  shore, 
and  less  rich  in  history,  Halifox  had  the  advantaj^e  in  1749  "f  l>eginnmg 
its  existence  with  a  colony  of  over  twenty-five  hundred,  which  m  six 
months  had  grown  to  five  thousand,  aiul  in  1894  something  like  ten 
times  as  many  souls.  It  is  beautiful  for  situation,  overlooking  its  harbor 
and  the  Bedford  Hasin  in  either  direction,  and  graced  by  many  solid 
and  noble  civic  and  ecclesiastic  buildings,  with  streets  that  strongly  sug- 
gest corners  of  London  or  Edinburgh. 

The  Haligonian,  when  approached  by  proper  letters  of  mtroduction, 
is  one  of  the  most  delightful  entertainers  possible,  otherwise  he  is 
inclined  to  be  exclusive  One  sees  on  the  public  thoroughfares  numer- 
ous well-dressed  men  and  women,  anwng  whom  the  reilcoat  of  the  regu- 
lars mingles  in  pleasin?  contrast  of  color.  The  Public  Ciardens  are 
noteworthy  and  famous  :ll  through  the  north,  and  at  times,  when  the 
fine  military  band  plays,  with  the  accompanying  illuminations  and  listen- 
ing crowds,  is  a  scene  of  great  brilliancy  and  animation. 

It  is  seldom  vouchsafed  a  stranger  to  enter  the  ramparts  of  the  cita- 
del or  the  works  and  batteries  in  the  harbor,  lest  he  be  especially 
favored,  but  it  is  possible  and  very  interesting  to  attend  the  military 
services  at  Garrison  Chapel,  to  visit  the  old  church  of  St.  Paul's,  the 
Cathedral,  the  Parliament  buildings,  the  Point  Pleasant  Park,  the  Ter- 
race; and  on  early  morning  of  a  Wednesday  and  Saturday,  the  Green 

Market. 

The  opportunities  for  getting  away  from  Halifax  by  water  are  numer- 
ous, whether  for  Europe  or  the  States,  Newfoundland,  Cape  Breton,  St. 
Pierre,  or  Quebec  ;  or  the  fair  bays  and  resorts  that  line  the  still  fairer 
South  Shore,  St.  Margaret's  Bay,  incomparable  Mahone  Bay,  Chester, 
Lunenburg,  La  Have,  Liverpool,  Shelburne,  and  a  host  of  other  towns 
equally  attractive.  Chester  is  a  favorite  resort  of  Haligomans  and 
people  from  the  Southern  States;  Lunenburg  is  large,  thriving,  and 
almost  exclusively  German ;  Bridgewater  on  the  La  Have  is  rich  in 
history  and  legends  of  the  Acadians,  and  offers  great  inducements  to  the 
canoeist  or  fisherman  in  its  rivers  and  lakes  inland. 

IN   CONCLUSION. 

We  have  omitted  much,  regretfully,  necessarily  have  left  unsaid  that 
which  we  ought  to  have  said,  and  said  that  which  we  ought  not  to  have 

87 


I 


] 


i 


li 
it 

\\- 

--■  f .- 


said, —  jicrhaps.  This  much  should  lie  said  :  travel  to  the  Provinces  and 
through  them  is  not  what  it  onie  was,  a  matter  of  labor  and  tribulation  ; 
the  genius  of  modern  jjrogress  has  followed  the  exile  of  the  Acadian 
anil  the  songs  of  the  poet.  Transportation  has  become  notetl  for 
"  sjieed  and  comfort  and  safety."  In  the  land  of  the  "  Uluen.)se  "  and 
"  Ituckwheat "  the  vacatum  fund  can  be  made  to  go  a  long  way,  for 
board  -verywherc  is  reasonable,  exceedingly  so,  and  in  most  cases  good, 
although  plain.  A  constant  improvement  in  all  these  particulars  is  taking 
place.  Sincerely  hoping  this  little  book  may  fulfd  its  intended  mission 
among  vacation  planners,  it  is  sent  on  its  way. 


Wi'ii  I  iirrtii 


88 


ic  Provinces  anil 
anil  trihuhition ; 
of  the  Acadian 
^onie  noteil  for 
'  Hlucn  )se  "  and 
a  long  way,  for 
nost  cases  good, 
ticulars  is  taking 
iitended  mission 


5^- 


f 


Local  Passenger  Fares. 


ONE  WAY  AND   RETURN. 

I-KOM    liOSTON. 

• 

ONI 

:  WAV. 

KEIIJKN. 

Boston  to  Annapolis,  \.S.,  via  Si.  John    .... 

56.25 

5ri.oo 

Calais,  Me 

J.  00 

9.00 

nigbv,  N.S.,  via  .St.  Jolin 

6.00 

10.50 

Eastport,  Me 

4.25 

8.00 

Portland,  Me 

1.00 

2.00 

R()bl)inston,  Me • 

5.00 

9.00 

St.  Andrew.s,  \.U 

5.00 

9.00 

St.  John,  N.ll 

5.00 

9.00 

FROM    roRTLANl). 

I'ortland  to  .Xnnapolis,  N.S.,  via  St.  John 

56.00 

510.50 

Calais,  Me 

4- so 

8.00 

Digby,  N.S.     .        .        ... 

5.50 

9-75 

"            Eastport,  Me. 

3-rs 

7.00 

'•            Robbinston,  Me 

4- so 

8.00 

"           St.  Andrews,  N.H.          .        .        .        •        • 

4- SO 

8.00 

'•           St.  John,  N.IJ.         .        »        .        ,        i 

4.50 

8.00 

FROM    OTHKK    POINTS. 

Calais  to  St.  John,  N.B.     .        ....        . 

$1.50 

52.50 

Robbinston  to  St.  John,  N.H.    .        .        .        .        . 

1.50 

2.50 

St.  Andrews  to  St.  John,  N.B 

t.so 

2.50 

Eastport  to  St.  John,  N.B 

1.50 

2.25 

7|y~  The  above  one-way  rates  are  for  limited  tickets.  Unlimited  tickets  are 
sold  at  an  advance.  Return  tickets  are  good  during  the  year  in  which  they  are 
purchased. 

The  same  passenger  rates  will  be  in  force  from  July  ist  to  September  2d,  via 
the  Boston  &  Maine  R.R.  to  Portland,  thence  by  steamer,  as  by  steamer  direct; 
and  tickets  reading  "'by  steamer"  will  be  accepted  via  the  Boston  &  Maine  R.R. 
Also,  tickets  reading  "via  the  R.R."  to  Portland,  thence  by  steamer,  will  be  ac- 
cepted by  direct  steamer  from  Boston. 

89 


r 


n^ 


TAKIFI<    OF    RATES. 

Ai  thl»  book  goes  to  preii  prevloui  to  publication  of  the  Company's  Summar  Rat*  8h««ti,  thaw 
may  l)«  illght  changes  In  Ih*  ratei  namtd  balcw.    Th»  right  It  resarvtd  to  maka  such  changes.  ^ 


KKSTINATION. 


KkOM    IIohTON.  KkoM    I'.iUTI.ASO.^ 

iUnumitid.    Limited.  „UHiiMitKi..    I.imukk. 


6.35 

10.  50 
17.65 


12. uo 


AMIII'.kST,  N.S >8-75 

"                and  return 5I4-65  

Andovir,  N.ll 9'30  

"  and  return IS'45 

Annapolis,  N.S T-^S 

"  and  return '     II -00 

Antigonish,  N.S 

"  and  return 

Aulmrn,  Mt!.  (M.C.  K  K.) 2.00 

((;.  T.  K'y) a. 00 

Augusta,  Me 3'°° 

Aylesford,  N.S 

"  and  return 

BADDIXK,  r.ll 1350 

"                and  return 23.25  

Hath,  Me 3. 25  

H.ithiirst,  N.H '0'0°     f 

"               and  return 16.45  

Berwick,  N.S 7-45 

"                and  return 12.85  

Bridgetown,  N.S 6- 5° 

"                and  return 1 1  •  50  

CALAIS,  Me 6.25  S-°°    \ 

"               and  return 9-oo  

Caledonia,  N.S , 

Cambridge,  N.S 1      7 -SO 

"               and  return i3'io  

Campbellton,  N.B "00 

"                and  return 18.00  

Campobello,  N.ll S.50  ;       4-50 

"                and  return 8.50  ■ 

Caribou,  N.B.  (via  River  and  Rail) 10. oc  

"                and  return 16.50  

Cliarlottetown,  P.E.I «oSo 

"               and  return I79S  

Chatham,  N.B ; 9-50 

"                and  return 'S'7S  

Crawford  House,  N.ll 4-50  

DALHOUSIE,  N.H 10-95 

"  and  return 17 '95 

Digby,  N.S 700 

"  and  return     10.50 

Dorchester,  N.B  • 

"  and  return '3'^S 

EASTPORT,  Me 5-5 

"  and  return 8.00 

FALMOUTH,  N.S 

"                and  return     14.00  

Fort  Fairfield,  Me.  {via  River  and  Rail).        9.70  

"                and  return 16.05  

Fredericton,  N.B.  (via  River) 6  00  [   

"                and  return 11. co  '. 

GRAND  PRE,  N.S 8.50  750 

"                and  return 14.00  


6.00 

■8.25' 

4.25 

7.50 


90 


*8.2S 

la.45 

6.50 
10.50 
10.35 

17.40 


$6.00 


7  80 
11.10 


7'.^o 


9.50 
IS4S 

795 
II  35 

7.00 
10.00 

8.00 
9.50 
8.10 
11.60 

17.00 
5.00 

7-50 
9.50 

1 5- 50 

17.25 

9.00 

14  75 


7-4S 
6.50 

4.50 

10.50 
4.00 


9.50 


10.45 

16.95 

6.50 

9-75 

'i'2'.k's 

4-75 
7.00 
8.70 

14.00 
9.20 

1505 
5-50 
9.50 
8.50 

13.45 


S-50 
7-75 
3-75 
8.20 


8.00 


TARIFF    OF    RATES.  -Continued. 


taU  Sheeti,  thtrt 
I  luch  change). 

K.IM    I'llKTI.ANP. 
UlTBll.      LlMITai). 

i\  ::::::::■ 

.80     

•  45      

.50  $6.00 

■50     

■»5      

•40     

80  i      7.30 

.10     

I-50      

145      

•95  7-«S 

•35      •••^ 

.00  6.50 

).00      

,•75  4-5° 

i.oo       

).So  8.50 

i.io  7.60 

1.60     

10.50 

7.00        

5.00  4.00 

'•50    

^•50    ! 

5^S0      

9^S0 

?-2S      

3.00      

4  75      

0-45    : 

69s    ' 

6.50  s^SO 

9-75    i 

7-75 

2-85     \ 

4^75  3-75 

7.00    

8.70  '      8.20 

4.00    I 

9.20     i 

505       ! 

5-50     I 

9.50  ...^■••. 

8.50  i      8.00 

2-45      


TtESTINATION. 


IUmumitid. 


KhoM    I'iiMTLAND. 


HALIFAX.  N.S.  (via  I.  C.  U'y) Jii.oo        f^ifi 

**  iinil  return i^.S" 

»  (vuT  \V.  A.  K'y) II. OS    ;      8.50 

"  and  return 16.50     | 

Hantsport,  N.S 7 -50 

"  and  return 14.00      

Har.  Au  liouchc ''     ii.6o    :........ 

Harcourt,  N.H 8-55 

"  and  return '4'3o      

Heatherton,  N.S 10.85 

9.25 
7.00 
7.50 

7.05 


LiMITBO.    rUNUMITKD.,    LiMITBD. 

59.00 


#9.50 
14.50 

9. 30 
'5. 50 

8.70 
ia.85 
1 1,  to 

8.05 
'3'30 
10,00 

9.00 

8.35 

12.00 

755 
•0.75 

7.20 
10.25 


7.70 
8.20 


14.15 


Hopewell,  N.S 05© 

ir.mlton.  Me 8.75     |       7-oo 

KKNTVIM.K,  N.S 

"  and  return 13. 5© 

Kingston,  N.S 

"  and  return 12.25      

LAWRKNCETOWN,  N.S ;      6.70 

"  and  return. I1.75     1 

Lewiston,  Me 2 .  00     j 

Liverpool,  N.S 9-00 

Londonderry,  N.S 8.85 

"  and  return '     I4'65 

MECHANIC  FALLS,  Me 1      2.30    j 

Metapedia,  N.lt ".ao 

"  and  return '8.35      

Meteghan,  N.S \ 7  ■  'o 

Middleton,  N.S 6.85 

"  and  return 1190    1 

Moncton,  N.H 7-65 

"  and  return 1300      

Montreal,  r.Q.  (G.  T.  R'y) 1      »-.50    \ 

(viaP.  &0.  R'y)....|      8.50    I 

Ri'ulgrave,  N.S '     1 1 .  50 

"  and  return 18.75      '7'7S 

NEW  CASTLE,  N.B 930  "     " 

"  and  return ;     15.40 

New  Glasgow,  N.S 

"                and  return 
New  Mills,  N.B 

"  and  return <7-4S      

North  Conway,  N.H 1      3-45      

OLD  ORCHARD,  Me 2.35      

Oxford,  N.S I I       8.7s 

and  return \     14.80 


6.50 
7'75 

7.05 
6  70 


10.70 

■3-3S 

7.25 

7-35 
10.50 

7-15 
12.00 


»5'75 


9.25 
10.60 


11.00 


8.80 

14.40 

9.00 

15-50 
10.10 

16.45 


PARADISE,  N.S 
Peticodiac,  N.B 
Pictou,  N.S 


and  return, 
and  return, 
and  return. 


Poland  Springs 

Portland,  Me 

"  and  return 

"  and  return  (Kail).. 

Presque  Isle,  Me.  (via  River  and  Rail) 


7.60 
II. 10 


12.00 


•5-75 
2.75 
1.00 
2.00 
4.00 
9.90 


6.60 
7.00 
9  25 


Profile  House,  N.H !      6.55 

"  and  return 11. 10 


91 


8.80 
14.50 

7.10 
10.10 

6.50 
11.00 

9.00 
•5-50 


9.40 


9.50 
9.00 


6.75 
6.85 


6.60 


r 


TARIFF   OF    RATES. -Continued. 


DESTINATION. 


Pt.  Du  Chene,  N.B. 


Fkom  Boston. 


Unlimited.!   Limited. 


Fkom  Portland. 
Unlimited,    Limited. 


and  return. 


$8.00 

513.50    ;  $i»-h° 


11.25 

14-35 
12.40 


5.00 

'siCo' 

7-30 

'93s 

11.60 

9--S 
6.30 


Pt.  Hawkesbury,  C.B \...\ i     "-fio 

"  and  return j     18.95      

Pt.  Hastings ! i     "-65 

"  and  return ]     19.05     | 

kOBlilNSTON,  Me ,      6.00 

"  and  return 9.00 

Round  Hill,  X.S 

"               and  return 
SACKVILLE,  N.B 

"               and  return 
Salisbury,  N.B 

"               and  return 
Stewiacke,  N.S 

"  and  return j     15.50 

Straits  Canso,  N.S.  (Pt.  Hawksbury) .  ■     

"  and  return |     19.05 

Summerside,  P.E.I | 

"  and  return I     15.75 

Sussex,  N.B 1 

"  and  return 1 1 .  00 

Sydney,  C.B.  (all  Rail) I 

"  and  return I9-7S     , 

THOMPSON,  N.S 8.85     i 

"  and  return 14.65     :     

Tracadie,N.S i :     ii-'o 

Truro,  N.S t o-^S 

"  and  return ;     14.65    ! 

WATERVH.LE,  N.S I       7  5° 

"  and  return >     13.00      

Wentworth,  N.S I !      8.85 

"  and  return 14-65     1 

Wevmouth,  N.S |      6.65 

Wh'ycocomaugh,  C.B 14-00 

Wilmot,  N.S 

"               and  return. 
Windsor,  N.S 

"               and  return. 
Wolfville,  N.S 

"  and  return 14.00     j 

\VooQ-,tock,  N.B.  (via  Calais) 8.75     j      7-oo 

YARMOUTH,  N.S     '      9.<x>    ;      8.co 


II.  10 

«7-95 
II. 15 
18.10 

5.50 
8.00 

6.75 
10.00 

6.80 

11.40 

9.00 

15-50 
11.10 

17-95 


12.50 


10.00 
12.00 

18.75 
8.85 

14-50 
10.85 

9.50 
15-50 

7-50 
11.50 

9.00 
14. So 

7.88 


$7  50 


4-50 
6.25 
8. 10 


12.05 
14.00 


6  95 

"7-50 

7-5° 


7-45 
10.55 

8.50 
14.00 

8.50 
12.30 

8.25 

7-9S 


5.80 


9.00 
7.00 

6!  80' 

6.95 
8.20 
8.00 


6.50 
6.00 


and  return.    ;     13.85      ii.75 


9a 


"kom  Portland. 

IMITED, 

Limited. 

i.50 
I.  10 

7'95 
1.15 
8.10 

5-50 
8  00 

$7  50 

4-50 

6.75 
0.00 

1.40 
9.00 

5-5° 
1. 10 

7-95 

6.25 

8.10 

0.00 

5.80 

8.75 
8.8s 
4- SO 
0.8s 
9.50 
5-50 
7-50 
•■50 
9.00 
[4.80 
7.88 

9.00 

7.00 

6.80 

7-45 
10.55 

8.50 
14.00 

8.50 
12.30 

8.2s 

7-95 
11.71; 

6.95 

8.20 

8.00 

6.50 
6.00 

MISCELLANEOUS    TOURS. 


No.  I. 
No.  2. 
No.  3. 
No.  4- 
No.  5- 

Nr   6. 

No,  7. 

No.  8. 
No.  g. 

No.  10. 

No.  II 

No.  12 


Annapolis  and  Return. 

Boston  to  St.  John  by   International  S.S.   Co.;     .St.  John   to  Ann.ipolis  by   liay  of 
Fundy  S.S.  Co.;  return  same  route. 

Antigonish,  N.  S.,  and  Return. 
llostontoSt.  John  by  International  S.S.  Co.;    St.  John   to   Antigomsh  by    Intcrcolo- 
nial  R'y ;  return  same  route. 

Calais,  Me.,  and  Return.      ,,,.    ,      .,       .      _  „ 
Hoslon  to  E.-.5ti)ort  by  International  S.S.  Co.;   Kastport   to  Calais  by  brontier  S.I.. 
Co. ;  return  same  route. 

Campobello,  N.  B.,  and  Return. 
Hoston  to   Kastport  by  International  S.S.  Co.;   Kastport  to  Campobello  by  Canipo- 
bello  S.r..  Co. ;  return  same  route. 


Charlottetown,  P.  E.  I.,  and  Rettorii. 


Ho..ton  to  St.  John  by  International  S  S.  Co.;  St.  John  -.o  Point  Du^Chene.by  Inter 
colonial  R'y;  Point  Du  Chene  to  Siimmcrside  by  Charl 
•  iL  .-  f'u^,\^,t»tn^ijn  Uv  P   v..  I.  R  v;  return  s 


colonial  ivy.  luiui  ....  v-. .>...-..■•■■■■■•---■ --- 
Summerside  to  Charlottetown  by  P.  K.  1.  K  y 


rlottetown  Pteain  Nav.  Co. 
return  same  route. 


No.  13. 
No.  14. 
No.  15. 
No.  16. 

No.  17. 

No.  18. 


Charlottetown,  P  E.  I.,  and  Return. 

Boston  to  St  John  by  International  S.S.  Co.;  St.  John  to  Pomt  Du  Chene  by  Inter- 
colonial  K'y;  Point  Du  Chene  to  Summerside  by  Charlottetown  Steam  Nav.  Co  , 
Sun  mers¥e  to  Charlottetown  by  P.  E.  I.  R'y;  ^''f  "''"X„"iM  RV  Halifax  .0 
lottetown  Ste.->m  Nav.  Co.;  Pictou  to  Halifax  by  Intercolonial  Ky.  Halitax  to 
Boston  by  Canada  Atlantic  S.S.  Line. 

Dieby,  N.  S.,  and  Return.    ^.  ,      ,      „        ,  ..     , 

Boston  to  St.  John  by  International  S.S.  Co.;  St.  John  to  Digby  by  B.ay  of  Hindy 
S.S.  Co. ;  return  same  route. 

Eastport,  Me.,  and  Return.  . 

Boston  to  Eastpo.t  by  International  S.S.  Co.;  Eastport  to  Hoston  by  International 

*''^'  ^°'  Fort  Fairfield  and  Return.    ^    ,    .         ,      „       ,  . 

Boston  to  St  lohn  by  International  S.S.  Co.:  St.  John  to  Fredericton  by  Star  Line 
sleamers;    Fredericton  to  Fort  Fairfield  by  Canadian   Pacihc  R'y;  return  same 

'■°"'''  Halifax  and  Return.  ,■    u     n        r 

Boston  to  St.  John  by  International  S.S.  Co.;    St.  John  to  Annapolis  by  B.ay  of 

Fundy   S.S     Co.;    Annapolis  to    Halifax  by  Dominion   Atlantic    Ry;    return 

same  route.  Halifax  and  Return.  „  ,,      ,      ,  ,     ., 

Boston  to  St.  John  by  International  S.S.  Co.;  St.  John  to  H.alifax  by  Intercolonual 
R'y ;  return  same  route.  .  _  . 

'  Ht. if  ax  and  Return.  ,  ,.,      ,^     ,  ,       , 

Boston  to  St.  John  by  Internationai  S.S.  Co.;  St.  John  to  Halifax  by  ln'"™l™!f' 
rV:  Halifax  to'^Annapolis  by  Dominion  , Atlantic  Ry:  Annapo  is  to  St  John 
by  Bay  of  Fundy  S.S.  Co.;  St.  John  to  Boston  by  Internation.il  S.S.  Co..  or 

rice  versa.  Halifax  and  Return.  „  ,,      ,      ,  ,     ., 

BostontoSt.Joh„byIntern.atioii.-,lS.S    Co.;.St.  John  to  Halifax  by   Intercolonial 

R'y;  Halifax  to  Boston  by  Canada  Atlantic  h.S.  l.ine. 


.fil.oo 

17.65 
g.oo 
8.50 
•7-95 

ao.35 


Kentville  and  Return.  i     u     u      „f 

Boston  to  St.  John  by  Intemation.al  S.S.  Co.;  St.  John,  to  Annapolis  by   Hay  of 

Fundy  S'S-!  Co.;    Annapolis  to   Kentville    by  Dominion    Atl.inlic   Ry;    return 

same  route.  Montreal  and  Return. 

Boston  to  St.  John  by  International  S.S.  Co.:  St.  John  to  Montreal  by  Intercolonial 

R'y    Montre.al  to  Boston  by  Canadian  Pacific  R'y,  via  Newport. 

Montreal  and  Return.  ,  ,     ,■      j- 

Boston  to  St.  John  by  International  S.S.  Co.;   St.  John  to  Montreal  by  t-^nadian 

Pacific  s'horrUne:   Montreal  to  Boston  by  Canadian  Pacific  R'y,  via  5,ewport. 

Mulgrave  and  Return.  ■      ,  .       i  „  ,i 

Boston  to  St.  John  by  International's.S.  Co.;  St.  John  to  Mulgrave  by  Intercolonual 
R'y;  return  same  route. 

Newcastle,  N.  B  ,  and  Return.  ,    ,      ,  , 

Boston  to  St.  John  by  International  S.S.  Co.;   St.  John  to  Newcastle  by  Intercolo- 
ni.il  R'y ;  return  same  route. 

93 


10.50 

8.00 
16.05 

16.50 

16.50 
18.00 

16.50 
13.50 
26,50 
2650 
18.75 
15.40 


MISCELLANEOUS  TOURS.— Continued. 

No.  19.  Pictou,  N.  S.,  and  Return.  $>S-7S 

lioslon  10  Si.  John  by  Inlernalion.il  S.S.  Co.;    St.  John    to  Pictou  by  Intcrcoloni.il 
K'y ;  rcmrn  s.inie  route. 
No.  30.  Portland,  Me.,  and  Return.  a.oo 

Hoston  to  Portland  by  International  S.S.  Co.;    Portland  to  Hosloii  by   International 
S.S.  Co. 
No.  21-  Portland,  Me.,  and  Return.  4  00 

lioston  to  Portland  by  International  S.S,  Co.;  Portland  10  Hoston  by  lioslon  ^ 
Maine  R.K.;  if  limited  ticket,  $3.50. 

No.  22.  Sidney,  C.  B.,  and  Return.  23.75 

lioston  to  St.  John  by  International  S.S.  Co.;  St.  John  to  Mulgrave  by  Intercolonial 
R'y;   Mufgr.ive  to  Sidney  by  Hras  d'Or  Lake  S  S.  Co.;  return  same  route. 

No.  23.  Sidney,  C.  B.,  and  Return.  19.75 

lioston  to  St.  John  by  lntern.->tional  S.S.  Co.;    St.  John  to  Sidney  by  Intercolonial 
k'y;  return  same  route. 
No.  24.  St.  John  and  Return.  15.50 

lioston  to  St.  John  by  International  S.  S.  CV  ;  St.  John  to  lioston,  all  rail. 

No.  25.  Summeriide,  P.  B.  I.,  and  Return.  15.75 

Boston  to  St.  John  by  International   S.S.  Co.;    St.  John  to  Point  Du  Chenc  by  Inter- 
colonial K'y;  Point  iJu  Chene  to  Summerside  by  Charlottetown  Steam  Nav.  Co.; 
return  same  route. 
No.  36.  Truro,  N.  S.,  and  Return.  14.05 

Boston  to  St.  John  by  International  S.S.  Co.;    St.  John  lo  Truro  by  Intercolonial 
R'y;   return  same  route. 
No.  27.  Three  Province*  Excuriion.  25.00 

Boston  to  St.  John  by  International  S.S.  Co.;  St.  John  to  Annapolis  by  B.ay  of 
Kundy  S.S.  Co.;  Annapolis  to  Halifax  by  Dominion  Atlantic  R'y;  H.ilifax  to 
Pictou  by  Intercolonial  R'y;  Pictou  to  Charlottetown  by  Charlottetown  Steam 
Nav.  Co.;  Charlottetown  to  Summerside  by  P.  E.  I.  R'y;  Summerside  to  Point  Du 
Chene  by  Charlottetown  Steam  Nav.  Co.;  Point  Du  Chene  lo  St.  John  by  Inter- 
colonial R'y;  St.  John  to  itoston  by  International  S.  S.  Co.  Tins  tour  m.iy  be 
reversed,  if  desired,  at  same  rate. 

No.  38.  WindKor  and  Return.  i4-oo 

Boston  to  St.  John  by  International  S.S.  Co. ;  St.  John  to  Annapolis  by  Bay  of  Fundy 
S.S.  Co. ;   Annapolis  to  Windsor  by    Dominion  .Atlantic  R'y;  return  same  route. 

No.  29.  Yarmouth,  N.  S.,  and  Return.  13.85 

Boston  to  St.  John  by  International  S.S.  Co.;  St.  lohn  to  Digby  by  H.iy  of  Fundy 
S.S.  Co. ;  Digby  to  Yarmouth  by  Dominion  Atlantic  R'y;  return  same  route. 

No.  30.  Yarmouth,  N.  S.,  and  Return.  1950 

Boston  to  St.  John  by  International  S.S.  Co. ;  St.  John  to  Digby  by  B.iy  of  Fundy 
S.S  Co.;  Digby  to  Yarmouth  by  Dominion  Atlantic  R'y;  Yarmouth  to  Boston 
by  Yarmouth  S.S.  Co. 

GENERAL  INFORMATION  TO  PASSENGERS. 

Return  Tickets  are  on  sale  to  all  principal  points,  and  a  large  saving  is  made 
by  purchasing  the  same. 

Staterooms  and  Meals.— Rooms  may  be  engaged  in  advance  upon  application  by 
letter  or  telegram  to  the  local  agents  of  the  company.  Stateroom  berths  are 
not  sold  by  this  company.  Rooms  are  Si.oo,  S1.50,  and  $2.00  each.  There  are 
also  several  bridal  and  family  rooms  on  each  steamer,  varying  in  price  from 
$3.00  to  $4.00.  Meals  are  served  on  the  American  plan,  at  the  following  prices  : 
Breakfast  or  Supper,  50  cents;  Dinner,  75  cents. 

Children's  Tickets.— Children  between  the  ages  of  five  and  rwelve,  half  fare ; 
under  five,  free. 

Redemption  of  Tickets. — In  the  purchase  of  tickets,  passengers  are  reminded 
that  any  portion  of  a  ticket  not  used  will  be  redeemed  at  its  value  at  the 
General  Agent's  Office,  Boston,  either  by  mail  or  upon  personal  application. 
This  will  apply  to  tickets  issued  by  this  company  over  its  connections  as  well 
as  over  its  own  lines. 

Steamers'  Landings.  From  Boston,  the  steamers  of  the  St.  John  line  leave  the 
south  side  of  Commercial  Wharf.  At  1'ortland,  the  steamers  leave  Rail- 
road Wharf,  foot  of  State  Street.  At  Eastport,  the  steamers  of  the  Inter- 
national S.S.  Co.,  the  Campoljello  steamer,  the  St.  Croix  River  steamer  for  St. 
Andrews,  Robbinston  and  Calais,  land  at  same  i)ier.  At  St.  John,  the  com- 
pany's pier  is  at  Reed's  Point. 


94 


ntercolonial 

itcrnational 

liosion   ^ 


niercolonial 
■me. 

ntercolonial 


nc  by  Inler- 
»  Nav.  Co. ; 


ntercolonial 


by  Hay  of 
Halifax  to 
:own  Steam 
to  Point  Dii 
tin  by  Inter- 
lour  may  be 


ly  of  Fundy 
ame  route. 


y  of  Fundy 
route. 


y  of  Fundy 
I  to  Boston 


$«5-7S 
z.oo 

400 

!i3-75 

«9-75 
IJ.50 
15-7.5 

14-65 
35.00 


14.00 
13-85 
19.50 


^GERS. 

saving  is  made 

m  application  by 
room  berths  are 
;ach.  There  are 
ig  in  price  from 
Eollowmg  prices  : 

velve,  half  fare ; 

rs  are  reminded 
its  value  at  the 
jnal  application, 
nections  as  well 

hn  line  leave  the 
iiers  leave  Rail- 
:rs  of  the  Inter- 
r  steamer  for  St. 
.  John,  the  com- 


Connecting  Lines  East  of  Boston. 


SPECIAI.  NOTICE. 


The  time-tables  given  below  are  substantially  correct  at  the  time  this  book  goes 
to  press.  Changes  mav,  however,  occur  when  the  Summer  .\rrangements  of  the  lines 
go  into  effect,  and  passengers  are  respecttuUy  referred  to  the  official  publications  of 
the  several  lines,  also  to  the  Pathfinder  Railway  Guide,  published  at  Boston  monthly, 
and  to  the  Traveller's  Official  Railway  Guide,  published  monthly  at  New  York, 
which  contain  time-tables  of  all  lines  in  the  United  States  and  Canada. 

BOSTON  &  MAINE  RAILROAD.  — Trains  leaving  Boston  at  12.30  P.  M. 
(Eastern  Division)  and  i. 00  P.M.  (Western  Division)  connect  with  the  steamers 
of  the  International  Steamship  Co.  at  Portland.  Trains  for  Boston  leave  Port- 
land (Western  Division)  at  7.CX)  A.M.,  12.40  and  3.30  P.M.,  and  (  on  the  Eastern 
Division)  at  2.00  and  9.00  A.M.,  i.oo  and  6.00  P.M. 

WESTERN  DIVISION  LOCAL  TRAINS,  FROM  PORTLAND, 
For  Old  Orchard  Beach,  Saco,  Biddeford,  Kennebunk  and  intermediate  stations, 
7.00  A.M.,  I'  40,  3.30,  5.15  and  6.20  P.M.  For  Wells  Beach,  7.00  A.M.,  and  3.30 
and  5.15  P.M.  For  North  Berwick,  Great  Falls  and  Dover,  7.00  A.M.,  12.40,  3.30 
and  5.15  P.M.  For  South  Newmarket  Junction,  Exeter,  Haverhill,  Lawrence  and 
Lowell,  7.00  A.M.,  12.40  and  3.30  P.M.  For  Rochester,  Farmington,  Alton  Bay  and 
Wolfeboro,  12.40  and  3.30  P.NL  For  Manchester  and  Concord,  7.00  A.M.,  and 
3.30  P.M. 

EASTERN  DIVISION  TRAINS 

Leave  Portland  at  2.00  A.M.  for  Boston  ( night  Pullman ),  stopping  at  Biddeford, 
Kittery,  Portsmouth,  Newburyport,  Ipswich,  Salem  and  Lynn. 

Leave  Portland  for  Boston  and  important  way  stations  at  9.00  A.M. 

Leave  Portland  i.oo  P.M.  for  Boston,  stopping  at  way  stations  to  Portsmouth. 

Leave  Portland  8.45  A.M.  for  Cape  Elizabeth. 

Leave  Portland  at  6  P.M.  (express  for  Boston),  stopping  only  at  principal  points. 

BOOTHBAY,  MOUSE  AND  SQUIRREL  ISLANDS.  — (Twenty-five 
miles.)  (Eastern  Steamboat  Co.)  Steamers  leave  Bath,  Me.,  daily  (except 
Sunday). 

95 


_  L 


CONNKCTING  LINES  KAST  OF  ISOSTON  -  Cc////««t'./. 

BAY  OF  FUNDY  STEAMSHIP  CO.— (Foit\  five  miles.)  (St.  John, 
Digby,  Nova  Scotia  Line.)  Steamers,  iluring  July  and  August,  leave  St.  John 
every  day  (except  Sunday)  at  7.30  A.M.,  local  St.  John  time,  for  Digby,  connect\ig 
for  all  parts  of  Western  Nova  Scotia.  Returning,  leave  Digby  same  afternoon, 
arriving  at  St.  John  about  5.00  P.M. 

BAY  DE  CHALEUR,  N.  B.  —  Steamer  "  Admir.il  "  leaves  Dalhousie 
(north  shore  of  N.  15.)  every  Wednesday  and  Saturday  morning  for  (;asi)e,  N.H., 
calling  at  intermediate  ports.  Returning,  leaves  Gaspe  Monday  and  Thursday 
mornings. 

CAMPOBBLLO  STEAMBOAT  CO.  —  (One  and  one-half  miles.) 
Steamers  of  the  Ferry  companies  for  the  island  of  Campobello  leave  E.istport  at 
frequent  intervals  during  the  day. 

THE  BRAS  D'OR  STEAM  NAVIGATION  CO.,  Limited.  Steamer 
"  Marion"  leaves  Sydney  at  9.00  A.M.,  North  Sydney  at  10.00  A.M.,  Mondays  and 
Thursdays,  for  St.  Peter's  Canal,  calling  at  New  Campbellton,  Hig  Bras  d'Or, 
Boularderie,  Baddeck,  Grand  Narrows  and  Irish  Cove,  connecting  with  the  "Blue 
Hill"  at  St.  Peter's  for  Mulgrave.  Returning,  leaves  St.  Peter's  Canal,  Tuesday 
and  Friday  mornings  for  Sydney,  calling  at  the  above-named  points,  and  calling  at 
Whycocomagh  and  Little  Narrows  Friday.  Leaves  Sydney  3.00  P.M.,  North 
Sydney  4.00  P.M.,  Tuesdays  for  Whycocomagh ;  leaves  Whycocomagh  Wednesday 
morning  for  Sydney. 

Steamer  "Blue  Hill"  leaves  Mulgrave  daily  (Sunday  excepted)  after  arrival  of 
train  from  the  west, for  Grandique  and  St.  Peter's,  connecting  with  "Marion"  Mon- 
day and  Thursday  evenings  for  Sydney  and  above  points. 

Steamer  "  May  Queen  "  leaves  Baddeck,  morning  and  evening,  for  Grand  Nar- 
rows, connecting  with  express  train  to  and  from  Sydney  and  Point  Tupper.  Leaves 
Grand  Narrows  Tuesdays,  after  arrival  of  train  from  Sydney,  for  Big  Pond  and 
East  Bay,  and  Wednesdays  and  Fridays  for  Irish  Cove. 

Steamer  "  Peerless  "  makes  four  trips  daily  between  Sydney  and  North  Sydney. 

FRONTIER  STEAMBOAT  CO.  — (Thirty  miles.)  (Eastport,  St. 
Andrews,  Robbinston,  Calais  —  opp.  St.  Stephen.)  Steamer  "Rose  Stan- 
dish  "  runs  in  regular  connection  with  the  steamers  of  the  International  Steamship 
Co.  from  Eastport,  touching  the  above-named  points  on  the  St.  Croix  River. 

GRAND  TRUNK  RAILWAY. —  For  Auburn  and  Lewiston,  7.10  and 
8.00  A.M.,  1. 10,  1.30  .ind  5.15  P.M.  For  Gorham,  N.H.,  8.00  A.M.,  1.30  and 
5.15  P.M.     For  Montreal  and  Chicago,  8.00  A.M.,  and  1.30  P.M. 

SHORE  LINE  RAILWAY.  — ( Between  St.  John,  St.  George  and  St. 
Stephen.  N.  B.  )  Trains  leave  Carleton  (  ferry  from  St.  John)  daily  (Sundays 
excepted  )  at  7.50  A.M. 

INTERCOLONIAL  RAILWAY.  — Trains  of  this  road  leave  St.  John 
morning  and  afternoon  for  Moncton,  Campbellton,  Amherst,  Truro,  Halifax,  and  all 
important  stations  on  main  line  both  north  and  south  of  Moncton.  For  hours  of 
leaving,  see  official  time-cards. 

96 


■MMtiMIM 


inueJ. 

s.)  (St.  John, 
,  leave  St.  John 
gbv,  coiinect'iig 
same  afternoon, 


aves  Ualhoiisie 
or  Gasi)e,  N.H., 
■  and  Thursday 

)ne-half  miles.) 
ive  Eastport  at 

lited.  Steamer 
[.,  Mondays  and 
Hig  Bras  d'Or, 
with  the  "  Blue 
Canal,  Tuesday 
;s,  and  calling  at 

00  P.M.,  North 
agh  Wednesday 

after  arrival  of 
"  Marion  "  Mon- 

for  Grand  Nar- 
I'upper.  Leaves 
•  Big  I'ond  and 

1  North  Sydney. 

(Eastport,    St. 

ler  "  Rose  Stan- 
tionat  .Steamship 
oix  River. 

dston,  7.10  and 
A.M.,    1.30  and 

3eorge  and  St. 

daily    (Sundays 


leave  St.  John 
,  Halifax,  and  all 
.     For  hours  of 


CONNKCTING  LINKS  i;Asr  OK  liOSToX  —  t'.v/// ////,■,/. 

LUBECAND  EASTPORT   FERRY. —(Three    miles.)     Kerry   steamers 
leave  Eastport  for  Kubcc  at  fre(|iient  intervals  day  and  evening. 

LUBEC    AND    MACHIAS     STAGE. —  ( Twenty-eight    miles.)      Leaves 
Liil>ec  daily  for  Machias.     Returning,  leaves  Maeliias  daily  for  Luliee. 

MAINE  CENTRAL  RAILWAY.— Trains  leave  Portland  as  follows  : 

K<«r  Aiihurn  and  Lewisloii,  8.30  A.M.,  1.15  and  5.10  P.M.  Lewisttm,  via 
Brnnswiek,  7.00  A.M.,  5.05  and  11.00  l'..M.  Kor  liath,  7.15  A.M.,  1.20,  5.05  and 
11.00  P.M.  Kocklar.d  and  Knox  &  Lincoln  Railroad,  7.15  A.M.,  and  1.20  and 
11.00  P.M.  Brunswick,  Gardiner,  Hallowell  and  Augusta,  7.15  A.M.,  1.20,  5.05 
and  11.00  P.M.  Farmington,  via  Lewiston, -S.30  A.M.,  and  1.15  P.M.;  via  Bruns- 
wick, 1.20  P.M.  Monmouth,  Wiothrop,  Lake  Maranacook,  Readficld,  Oakland  and 
North  Anson,  1.15  P..NL  Waterville  ami  Skowheg.in,  via  Lewiston,  1.15  P.M.; 
via  Augu.sta,  6.40  A.M.,  i.co,  1.20  and  11.30  P.M.  Belfast  and  De.xter,  1.15,  1.20 
and  11.00  P.M.  Bangor,  via  Lewisttm,  1.15  P.M.;  via  Augusta  1.20  and  11.00  P.M. 
Ellsworth  and  Bar  Ilarlior,  1.20,  11.00  I'.M.  Vanceboro",  St.  Stephen  (Calais) 
Aroostook  County,  St.  John,  Halifax  and  the  Provinces,  1.20,  11.00  P.M. 

WHITE  MOUNTAINS  LINK. —  For  Cumberland  Mills,  8.45  A.M.,  1.25  and 
5.55  P.M.  For  .Sebago  Lake,  8.45  A.M.,  1.25  and  5.55  I'.M.  For  Bridgton,  8.45 
A.M.  and  1.25  P.M.  Fryeburg,  North  Conway,  Glen  Station,  Crawfords,  and 
Fabyans  and  Montreal,  8.45  A.M.,  and  3.30  P.M.  Jefferson  and  Lancaster,  8.45 
A.M.  and  3.30  P.M. 

NOVA  SCOTIA  CENTRAL  RAILWAY.— Trains  of  this  railway  connect 
at  Middletown  (1).  A.  R'y)  ft)r  New  Germany,  Lunenburg,  Bridgewater,  Malonc 
Bay,  and  other  points  on  South  Shore,  including  Liverpool. 

CANADIAN  PACIFIC  RAILWAY. —  (St.  John  to  Fredericton,  Grand 
Falls,  Vanceboro',  St.  Stephen,  St.  Andrews,  etc.)  Trains  leave  St.  John  for 
Fredericton,  St.  Stephen,  St.  Andrews,  lloulton,  Bangor,  etc.,  at  6.10  and  8.55  A.M. 
For  Fredericton  at  4.40  P.M.  For  St.  Stephen,  St.  Andrews,  Houlton,  Bangor,  etc., 
at  8.30  P.  M. 

PORTLAND  AND  NEW  YORK  LINE.  — (Three  himdred  and  forty 
miles.)  (  Maine  Steamship  Co.)  Steamers  leave  Portland  for  New  York, 
calling  at  Martha's  Vineyard,  every  Monday,  Wednesday  and  Saturday  at  6  P.M. 
Returning,  leave  New  York  every  Monday,  Wednesday  and  Saturday  at  5  P.M. 

PORTLAND  AND  BOOTHBAY  LINE.— Steamer  leaves  Portland 
Tuesdays  and  Saturdays  at  S.oo  A.M.,  for  Squirrel  Island,  Boothbay,  Heron  Island, 
South  Bristol  and  East  Boothbay,  and  for  Pematiuid  every  Thursday  at  8.00  .V.M. 
Returning,  leave  Boothbay  every  Monday  and  Thursday  at*8.oo  A.M.  for  Portland 
pnd  intermediate  points.     Also  leaves  Pemaquid  for  Portland  Fridays  at  7.00  .\.M. 

MT.  DESERT  AND  MACHIAS  LINE.  — The  new  steamer,  "Frank 
Jones,"  makes  tri-weekly  trips  between  Rockland,  Bar  Harbor  and  Machiasport; 
leaving  Kockland  Tuesdays,  Thursdays  and  Saturdays  at  6.00  A.M.,  and  returning 
from  Machiasport,  Mondays,  Wednesdays  and  Fridays. 

97 


C'0.\Nt:cTIN(;  LINKS  KAST  oK  IIOSTON  — CV////««.</. 

PORTLAND  &  ROCHESTER  RAILROAD.  —  Trains  leave  I'ditl.iiul 
as  I'dHows  :  For  WorccsUr,  <  linton,  Ayer  Junction,  Nasinia,  Windliam  anil  Kppin^ 
at  7.30  A.M.  antl  li.jol'.M.  Kor  Manchester,  Concord  and  points  north  at  7.30 
A..M.  and  IJ.30  I'.M.  For  Rochester,  Springvale,  Alfred,  Waterboro'  and  .Saco 
Kivcr  at  7.30  A.M.,  12.30  and  5.30  P.M.  For  (Jorhani  at  7.30  and  045  A.Nf., 
12.30,  3.00,  5.^,0  and  6.20  I'.M.  Foi  Westbrook  (Saccarappa),  Ciimberiand  Mills, 
Westbrook  Junction  and  Woodford's  at  7.30  and  9.45  A.M.,  12.30,  3.00,  5.30  aiul 
6.20  l'..M. 

PORTLAND  &  BOSTON  STEAMERS. —  ( One  hundred  and  ten 
miles.)  (Portland  Steam  Packet  Co.)  Leave  Portland  at  7.00  P.M.  daily  e.\cept 
Sunday.  Returning,  leave  Boston  7.00  p.m.  daily,  e.vcept  Sunday.  In  summer, 
special  Sruiday  evening  trips  arc  made  in  both  directions. 

CHARLOTTETOWN  STEAM  NAVIGATION  CO.— Steamers  of  this 
line  form  a  daily  connection  (except  Sunday)  to  and  from  Point  du  Chene  and 
Summerside.  Arrangement  of  steamers  is  such  as  to  connect  with  I.  C.  R'y  train 
to  and  fron\  St.  John.  This  line  also  runs  daily  (except  Sunday)  to  and  from 
Pictou  and  Charlottetown,  forming  direct  connection  to  and  from  Halifa.v. 

STAR  LINE  STEAMER  leaves  Indiantown  at  9.00  A.M.  weekdays.  Re- 
turning, leaves  P'redericton  at  8.  A..M.  week-days. 

DOMINION  ATLANTIC  RAILWAY. —  Trains  leave  Yarmouth  daily 
(e.\cept  Sundays)  for  all  points  between  Yarmouth  and  Ilalila.x. 


«L 


,;S 


TT" 


illlhllli  d. 

ins  leave  I'ditlaiul 
ulluun  aiut  Kjtpin^ 
ints  north  at  7.30 
lcrl)i)ro'  anc'  Saco 
;o  and  045  A.^f., 
oiiml)ciiaiul  Mills, 
,30,  3.00,  5.30  ami 

iiuiKircil  and  ten 
3  r.M.  daily  except 
iday.     In  summer, 


—  Steamers  of  tills 
oint  (hi  Ciiene  and 
ivitli  I.  C.  R'y  train 
nday)  to  and  from 
1  Halifax. 


I.  weeiv-da\> 


K 


ve  Yarmoutli  daily 


Connecting  Rail  Lines  out  of  Boston. 

TlinOlKill  TKAIN9-srB.IK<T  TO  IHANtiK. 


Mnriiini;  tniins  ami  ilii; 
I  J.  10  ami  I  .u«>  P.M.  trains 
amiiLci  at  I'drtlaiul  witli 
stfaniurs. 

i\ti  Ni)  transfer  ilurinu  the 
Siiinmer. 


Boston  &  Maine  Railroad— Kastern  Division. 

1  nr  POK  ri..\M'-7V'anil  .;.oo  .A.M.,  1230  ami  7..K)  P.M. 
"     WHllE  .MOl  NIAiNS-7..i;o.\..M.,  .i.jo  P.  .M. 

Boston  &  Maine  Railroad— Western  Pivision. 

Kiir  l'()Rl'l..\NI)— S  jo.\.M.,  u.joaml  i-4i  l'^'- 

Boston  &  Maine  Railroad— .'^niiiliern  Division. 

I'nr  MONTKK.M.,  P.  (J.— via  Ctnlral  VeriiiDnt  Kailruail— y.oo  ami  11. ju  .\..M.,ancl  7.J0  P„M. 
•  •  "  "     —via  Canadian  Pacific  Railway— 9.00  .\.M. 

•     WIIITK  MOUNTAINS-9.00  A.M. 
Bokton  &  Maine  Railroad— Central  Mass.  Division. 

I'or  HLllSON,  \V.\KE  ami  NORTH.AMPK  »J-3.i5  .A.M.,  1.30  ami  .(.41'  I'-M- 

Boston  &  Albany  Railroad 

F(ir  NEW  Y()KK-9.t»  ami  11.00  A.M.,  4.00  ami  11.00  P..\I.  -• 

"     .M-P.ANY— 5.00,  3. JO,  10.30  .itnl  ii.ouA.M.,  2.00  ami  7.15  P..M. 
"    THE  WEST— 1030  A.M.,  2. CO  anil  7.15  P.M. 

Fitchburg  Railroad— Hoosac  Tunnel  Route. 

F(ir  MONTREAI.,  P.  1^).- via  Central  Vermont  Kailn).->cl— 8.00  ami  10.30  A.M  ,  ami  7.00  I'.M. 
"      TKOV,  N.  v.— 6.45,  y.oo  ami  11.30  .A..M.,  3.00  antl  7.00  P.M. 
"    THE  WEST— 3. no  ami  7.00  P.M.  "       ' 

New  York  &  New  England  Railroad. 

i'or  NEW  Y( -KK-S.jo  A.M.,  12.00  noon,  3.00  and  3.30  P.M. 
'«        "  *'      —via  Sound  Steamer — 600  P.M. 

New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  Railroad. 

For  NEW  YORK.— via  Fall  River  l.ine-6.00  P.M. 

"  "      —via  Shore  Line;  all  rail— lu.oo  and  10.03  A.M.,  i.oo,  3  00,  3.00  and  12.00  P.^^. 

.1        "  "      —via  Providence  l.ine—Opens  in  Jnne  —  6.30  P..M. 

"        "  "      —via  Stnnington  Line— 6  30  P.M. 


Boston  and  Portland  by  Daylight. 

(Omitted  during  Snminer  Schedule.) 


RATES. 


Boston  to  Portland,  Me  .... 
"  Auburn,  Me  .... 

"  Augusta,  .Me.... 

Hath,  Me 

lielfast,  Me 

"  Pirunswick,  Me  . 

•'  Crawford  House,  New  Hampshi 

"  Fabyans,  N.  H 

"  Farniington,  Me. 

Glen  House,  N.  H 

Gorham,  N.  H 

"         CJardiner,  Me 

Hallowell    "" 
"  I.ewisU'1,  Me 

Mon'.eil,  P.  Q  .     ... 

Montreal,  P.  Q 

"  Worth  Conway,  N.  H 

Old  Orchard,  N.  H 
•'  Poland  Springs,  Me 

*'  Skowheaan,  Me 

"  Waterville,  Me 

"  m-  Steamers  do  not  make  the  d.iy  trip  between  Boston  and  Portland"  from  July  1  to  September  : 

99 


,::  I 


gfMSiiam 


_  1. 


Stage  Conner  .ions. 

Ai   Amiikksi-  with  triweekly  Sta.ucs  for  I.imlfn  and  Tij;nish. 
M   SHn.KNA.'Al.iK  vvitl.  Sta,,cs  .laiiy  for  Mai.lan.l,  ( lav".  Kivu   a.ul  .M.>s.,uo,lo1.it. 

iri  weekly  for  Stuet  llarl.oiir,  ami  on  Saturdays  for  Kennutcook  ami  Noel. 
A.    Woyv.wv.l.  with  Stewart's  Sta^e   Line  for  Springvillc.    Ilridueville,    St.   I'ai.!, 

Uoper  and  Lower  Caledonia,  Sniillilield  and  Melrose. 
At  TRlRO,  daily,  with  Stages  for  Clifton,  Ulaek  Roc  k  and  Maitland.and  tri-weekly 

for  Karltown  and  West  I'.ianeh  Kivei  John. 
At   London. .KKKY  with  Stages  for   Aeadia   Iron  .Mines.  Great   Village,    Keonotny 

ami  Five  Islands. 
At   SllKDl.AC  with  Stages  to  and  from  Cocigne  and  Bnctouche. 
At   ILvRfoUKTwith  Stages  for  Kichibucto,  Kingston,  and  other  places  on   North 

Shore. 
At  NKW.ASll.K  with  tri-w.ekly  Stages  for  Ued  liank  and  Whitneyville. 


Cape  Breton  Connections,  1895. 

Intercolonial  trains  run  through  from  Mulgravc  to  Grand  Narrows  and  Sydney. 

At  the  time  of  going  to  press  full  particulars  of  navigation  lines  had  not  been 
received,  the  summer  time-tables  of  local  railways  will  give  full  particulars. 

Steamers  of  the  Hras  d'Or  Navigation  Co.  connect  with  trains  of  Intercolonial 
Railway  at  Mulgrave,  for  Svdnev,  calling  at  Grandi<iue  Ferry,  St.  Peter's, 
Grand  Narrows, ^Haddeck  and  Boularderie  Islands.  Returning,  leave  Sydney 
for  above  points  connecting  at  Daddeck  with  steamers  for  Whycocomagh, 
Little  Narrows  and  Little  Bras  d'Or. 

Steamship  "Ramouski"  will  leave  Mulgrave  .mi  arrival  of  east-bound  train,  for 
Arichat.  Canso.  and  Port  Hood,  and  on  two  days  per  week  for  Guysboro. 
Returning  from  above  points  following  mornings,  so  as  to  connect  with  west- 
bound trains. 


100 


■itiaMib 


ami  Miisiiuoilobit, 
oiik  Hiul  Noel. 

igfviiic,  St.  r.ui:, 


iiul.aiul  tri-wcekly 
Villagf,    r.cciniimy 

r  places  cm   North 
ifvvillc. 


95- 


ws  aiul  Sydney. 

lines  hail  not  been 
full  particulars. 

ns  of  Intercolonial 
Ferry,  St.  Peter's, 
ning,  leave  Sydney 
for    Whvcoconiagh, 


ast-boiind  train,  for 

,cek   for  Gnyshoro. 

connect  with  west- 


Th«  n«w  Hot  Aberdeen,  recently  opened, 
was  Inadvertently  omitted  from  the  list  of  St. 
John  Hotels.  Their  advertisement  may  be 
found  elsewhere  In  this  book. 


-Itr-- 


Ciiv  UK   I'cm. 


Namk  l>l-    lIcTHl.. 


Amher-i,  N.  S.. 
AiiiKipolU,  N.  S. 


Aylesfiml,  N.  S... 
li.i.l.lc.:k,C.  H.... 
lictwi.  k,  N.  S.  . 
llri>l)'ctown,  N.  S. 


l;ilai*,  Me. 


Cainimlicllo,  N.  11 
nalliniiMc.  N.  II... 


Pigby,  N. 


Kiisipiirl,  Mc- 
Kreilerictiin,  N.  H. 

(iram'  N.irrows,  (.' 
Halifax,  N.S.  ... 

Kcniville,  N.  S... 


Kingston,  N.  S  .. 
I  „iwrencetown,  N 

lailwc.  Me 

MIdilleton.N.  S.. 
Moncton,  N.  B... 

New  Glasgow,  N. 
loint  Hastings,  C 
Portland,  Me 


St.  Andrews,  N.  H 
St.  John,  N.  H  ... 


Summerside,  P.  K, 
Truro,  N.  S, 


Walerville,  N.  S.. 
Weymonth,  N.  S.. 
Windsor,  N.  S. . . . 


, .    IVrraie  Hi>tcl 

Aniliursl  Hotel 

..  I'lifldii  lliiiKi' 

Anieriran  Hniisi'  ..■ 
I'linnnercial  House. 
..   Ayloforil   llmise.... 
..   'I'elegr:i|)ll  llou-e.... 

..   French  Villa 

..   tirand  t'enirai ••  • 

Revere  House 

..  Border  lily  Hotel... 
St.  L'roix  Kxchange. 
.AnieriL-an  House.... 

.   .     Ty'n-y-roed 

. ..  Inch  .\rran  House. .. 
Muri)hy's  Hotel     ... 

, ..   Myrtle  House 

Royal  Hotel 

Short's   Hotel 

Ilurnhani  House 

OiKhy  Hotel 

. ..   Ouoildy  House 

...    Barker  House 

(^)ueen  Hotel 

.1!.    • 

. ..  Oueen  Hold ■ 

Halifax  Hotel 

...   Mcl.eo<rs 

Kentville  House.... 

Porter  House 

Revere  House 

American  House. . . 
Victoria  Hotel.... 
..   Kingston  House.... 

S.  Kim  House 

V.illey  House 

. .   Merchant's  Hotel  . . 

Hillside  House 

,.  American  House... 
,,    Brunswick  House 
Commercial  House. 

^  .  Vendome 

B. ;  Caledonia  Hotel .... 
...   Falmouth  Hotel . . . . 

,  United  States 

!  Preble  House 

iCity  Hotel 

i  Kt.  Julian  Hotel.... 

Algonquin 

Puflerin 

[  Victoria 

i  Koy.tl  •••••,. 

I  New  Victoria 

Belmont 

Queen 

;.  I.  Clifton  House 

Hotel  Russ 

Pr.  of  Wales  Hotel 
Victoria  Hotel  .•••■ 
Learment  Hotel.... 


rUOl'UMilllK. 


N.  C.  Calhoun 

(ieo.  Ml  Fariane 

Wm.  M.lelland.... 
Mrs.  I.  H.  M.  leod. 
Mrs.  "1.  H.  Salter.... 

M.  N".  Craves 

J.  Oiuilap 

Mrs.  Vaughan 

W.  I.  ( ilenrn)ss 

Mrs.  Russell 

1).  M.  (lardnei 

J.  K.  I'uran 

\.  ('•.  Hamilton 

Write  Manager 

'I'hos.  .Murphy 

J.  I.'.  Morrison 

I.  Daley 

Airs.  M.  Short ■ 

Xirs.  J.  Burnham... 

Nliss  Smith 

Kenney  &  liucknam. 

F.  B.  Coleman    

J,  \.  FUiwartls 

McDougallA  McNeill 

A.  B.  Sher.ilon 

H.  Hesslein 

D.  McLeotI 

J.as.  Lyons 

Rufus  I'ortcr 

Mrs.  W.  Redilcn.... 

J.  Mcintosh 

]C.  E.  Farren 

R.  E.  Davidson 

!A.  I'.  I'hinncy 

jN.  H.  I'hinncy 


Wolfville,  N.  S. 


Avon  House 

Victoria  Hotel 

Windsor  House  . . . 

Acadia  House 

Centr.al  Hotel 

Wolfville  House... 

Kent  Lodge 

American  House.. 


,  I).  Peind.al 

.  Cico.  McSweeney.. 

.  1).  McDearmid 

!:j.K!*Maiii'i! !!!."! 

■  rt'oss  &  O'Connor. . . 
. IM.  .^.  (Jibson 

V.  H.  Sweet 

.  W.  R.  Underwood.. 

Albert  Miller 

.  F.  .A.  Jones 

.il).  W.  McConnick 
.  Thos.  F.  Riiymcnd. 
. |J.  I..  McCloskey... 

.  John  Sime 

.,).  C.  Rickie 

E.  Mawley 

.  J.  B.  Russ 

Mrs.  A.  1..  McKenzie 

.  N.  A.  Ross.. 

.  A.  H.  Learment 

W.  H.  Risteen  •    . 

.  Forbes  Jones 

.  John  Cox 

•  Thos.  Doran 

.  Thos.  Gibson 

.J.  L.  Franklyn...    • 
.  Mrs.  C.  R.  tJuin.... 

.  H.  I).  Farrell 

.  Mrs.  Haliburton 

.J.W.Harris 


3.< 

.(o 

ao 
i8 

>5i 
loo 

50 

50 

40 
130 
300 

18 

30 

38 

32 
16 
13 
18 
8 

8 
50 
50 
'i 
SO 
30 
....] 

350' 

150. 

138 
86 
50 

200 

50 

681 

761 
50 
331 
39 1 
30 
'.S 
45 

i  33 
20 
II 

«4 


3.50  to  4.00 
t.SO 

3.,H1 

1.5.1 
I  50 
1.50 
1.50 

2.00  to  3.t» 
3.00  to  3.50 
■J. 00  to  3.50 
1 .^o   to  3.00 

•J.CVI     to    J.  00 

a.iKi  to  4.00 
1.50 
1.50 

1.25 

1 .00 

1.35 

1.35 

1. 00 

1.35 

1.00 

a. 00 
1.50  to  2.00 

1.50 
3.00  to  3.00 
1.50  to  2.00 
Special. 

1 .00 
2.00  to  4.00 
2.00  to  2.50 
2.50  to  3.00 
2.00  to  2.50 
1 .00  to  3.00 
3.00  to  5.00 

3.00 

3.00    to    3    50 

I  3-°° 

I  3.00 

I  3-°o 

3. 00 
1.50 
I  50 
1.50 
1.50 
1. 00 
1.50 
1.50 
1.50 
1.35 
1.50 
1.50 
1.50 
1.25 
1.35 


S|iecial. 

C).0" 

7.1K1  to  10. IX) 

5.00  to  7.o'> 
^.(•o  to  7. '."I 
j.ooto  7.K1 
5.00  to    7.'"' 

Special. 

10.00  to  14. uo 

10.00  to  i4.t>o 

7.00  to  10.00 

10.50    to    16.  CO 

lo  00  to  16.00 
Special. 

5.00 

S'oo 
3.00 
i  5.00 

I  5.00 

i  4-00 

3.50 
7.00  to  10  00 
7.00   to  10.00 
j  5,00  and  6.00 
Special. 


4.00  to  5.00 
10.00  and  up. 
io.c)o  and   up. 
ecial. 


Spec 


15.00  .and   up. 
Special. 


5.i» 
6.00 

Special. 
7  00 
7.00 
7.00 

Speci.ll. 

5.00  to  7.C 
Special. 


6  00 
Special. 

6.00 
Special. 

5.00 


lOl 


I    -, 


I    _ 


It  1^: 


irt^V^'rW^^ 


I 


THE  RHINE  OF  AMERICA     -_-__:!._ 

T^IVBK   SAINT  JOHN. 


ST.  JOHN.  FREDERICTON  mud  WOODSTOCK. 

FARE:  FREDERICTON,  $1.00.    FREDERICTON  TO  WOODSTOCK,  $1,50. 
.       THROUGH  TICKET,  $2.00.  , 


Inlil  further  iioiici:,  one  of  tlii:  uplcniliil  Mail  Stuvmkks  of  ilii»  line  will  leave 

INDIANTOWN    FOR    FREDERICTON, 

Anil  full  riiii-iliat,-  /.iiiiiiiiigi, 

Kvcry  morning  (Siiml.iyi  exccpleil)  al  nine  o'clock  (local  time),  ami  will  leave 

FREDERICTON    FOR    ST.    JOHN    (INDIANTOWN), 

And  liileriiiiiiiiilr  l.iiiniitigs, 

Kvery  morning  (Simd.iy*  excepted)  at  eight  o'clock  (local  time),  due  at  Indianlowii  al  three  v.s\. 

Leave    FREDERICTON    FOR    WOODSTOCK, 

Tueiilayi,    Thuridjy*,  and  Saturdays  at  nix   a.m.     Return  alternate  day»,  leaving 

.},  WocxUtnck  nt  eight  a.m.  --  ; 


CONNECTIONS  ARE  MADE  WITH  TRAINS  OF  THE 

CMHiDIMN  PACIFIC  RMILWiY, 

FoK  Woodstock,  Ahoostock,  Ckanh  Fau.s,  Ed.mindston.  kti'. 

CMHADA  EASTERN JiAILWMY. 

For  Uoaktown,  Chatham,  ktc,  and  with 

STEAMERS  OF  THE  IHTERMATIORAL  STEAMSHIP  CO. 


FoK  AND    rHOM    PoKTl.ASD,    HosTdS,   AND  OTHKK   POINTS   IN   THK  UNlTttD   STATES  AND   CANADA, 


THEOCOH  TieSKS,  SltTSLX  A»D  8ITCr.iI,  138UID  TO  ALL  8IATI0H8  AT 
8FICIAL  USUCIB  SATIS. 


Connections  made  with  the  electrics  of  "St.  John  City  Railway,"  which  run  to  and  from 
steamboat  landing.     Fare  only  five  cents  to  any  point  in  St.  John  or  Portland  on  their  route. 

For  further  information,  see  folder  with  map  of  River,  to  be  obtained  at  offices  of  the 
iNTKKNATioNAi.  Stkamship  Co,,  .It  railroad  stations  and  at  hotels. 


Geo.  F.  Baird.  Manager. 

Head  Office  at  Star  Line  Wharf,  Indiantown,     ■     -     ST.  JOHN,  N.B, 


PORTLAND  STEAM  PACKET  CO. 


I<INK   OF  FXRST-CX^ASS  STEiliMFKS 


BOSTON  AND  PORTLAND. 


/^NE  of  the  steamers  —  Porii.and  or  Trkmont  —  will  leave  India 
^^  Wharf,  lioston,  for  Portland,  every  evening  at  7.00  p.m.  (except 
Siuidays),  connecting,  on  arrival,  with  Maine  Central,  Knox  &  Lincoln, 
(Irand  Trunk,  and  Portland  iV  Rochester  Railroads,  and  with  steamers 
for  points  on  coast  of  Maine.  Direct  and  desirable  route  to  Lewiston, 
Auburn,  Bangor,  and  all  points  East  and  North.  Through  tickets  at 
low  rates.  Leave  Portland  for  Boston  every  evening  at  7.00  o'clock 
(except  Sundays),  connecting,  on  arrival,  with  the  earliest  trains  on 
all  diverging  lines. 

Sunday  trips  from  middle  of  June  to  middle  of  September,  leaving 
each  port  at  7.00  p.m. 

This  line  affords  a  most  desirable  route  to  the  Rangeley  Lakes, 
through  by  daylight  from  Portland.  The  standard  route  for  comfort 
and  pleasure  to  Lewiston,  Poland  Springs,  Mount  Desert,  Bethel, 
(Jorham,  N.H.,  North  Conway,  Crawford's,  Fabyan's,  itc.  Close  con- 
nections at  Portland  with  all  diverging  lines,  and  through  tickets  to 
points  North  antl  East. 


J.  B.  COYLE.  Manager.  J.  F.  LISCOMB,  Gen.  Agent  and  Treas. 

C.  F.  WILLIAMS,  Agent,  India  Wharf,  Boston. 

f 

GENERAL    OFFICES:   PORTLAND,   MAINE. 


:et  CO. 


VIEKS 


.AND. 


ill  leave  India 
oo  P.M.  (except 
Jiox  iV  Lincoln, 
A  with  steamers 
ite  to  Lewiston, 
ough  tickets  at 
at  7.00  o'clock 
rliest  trains  on 

tember,  leaving 

angeley  Lakes, 
ite  for  comfort 
Desert,  Bethel, 
tc.  Close  con- 
3Ugh  tickets  to 


jent  and  Treas. 


\n. 


AINE. 


MAINE  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY. 

TRI-WKEKLY  LINE  BETWEEN 

PGRiLANDiNEWYORK. 


I^^l^:;?!!^^' 


9MiBL'V1.0W,—m%S, 


f>tE\N 


MANHATTRN,!sTEfli»isHips^ 


2.000  TONS. 


i  COTTAGE  CITY, 


2,000  TONS. 


Leave  Franklin   Wharf,  Portland,  every  Tuesday,  Thursday  and 

.Saturday  at  6.00  p.m. 
Leave  Pier  38,  East  River,    New  York,  every  Tuesday,  Thurs- 
day and  Saturday  at  5.00  p.m. 

T/w  Steamers  touch  in  each  direction  at  Cotta^^e  City,  Martha^s  Vineyard. 


pafes   (in  Statepooms). 

Between  Portland  and  New  York $5-co 

Round  Trip  Tickets 8.co 

Between  Portland  or  New  York  and  Martha's  Vineyard 400 

Round  Trip  Tickets  from  Portland  or  New  York  to  Martha's  Vineynrd  and  Return,  7.00 

MEALS   EXTRA. 

Freight  received  and  forwarded  to  and  from  all  points  .South  and  West  of  New 
York  and  East  of  Portland.     For  Freight  or  Passage  apply  to 


J.  F.  USCOMB,  GenTal  Agent, 


HORATIO  HALL,  Agani, 


ofkice:  fkanklin  whakf,  Portland.  hfuce:  tier  38,  east  kiver,  nf.w  york. 

J.  B.  COYLE,  Hanagor,  Portland,  HI: 


To  NOVA  SCOTIA  vit  ST.  JOHN,  N.  B. 


AM)  TIIK 


DRYoF  pUNDY  gTERMSHIP  QOIPANY 

(LiiMrrET).) 

'•    o  o 

TIIK  I'inc  Iron  Sttamer  "  City  of  Monticello  "  runs  legiihu!;,  in  conneLtion 
with  International  Steamship  Co.  lutwccn  St.  John  and  Digby,  tlicie 
connecting  with  th"  Western  Counties  Railway  for  Yarmouth  and 
points  West.  From  Digby  the  steamer  proceeds  to  Annapolis,  sixteen  miles, 
through  one  of  the  most  picturesque  rivers  in  North  America,  connecting  with  the 
Windsor  &  A.^napolis  Railway,  which  traverses  the  far-famed  "Land  of 
Evangeline  "  to  Halifax  and  points  East. 

t'onneclion  matle  at  St.  John  with  the  "All  Kail  Line"  to  llangor,  Portland, 
and  Boston,  with  the  Steamers  of  tlie  International  Steamship  Co.  to  Eastport, 
I'ortland  and  Boston,  with  Canadian  Pacific  for  Montreal,  Intercolonial  to  Moncton, 
Quebec,  etc.,  the  Crand  Southern  U.  R.  for  St.  George  and  St.  Stephen,  Canadian 
Pacific  to  Bangor  and  points  West,  and  the  New  York,  Maine,  and  New  Brunswick 

Steamship  Company. 

©    ©    0  .     ■ 

PROPOSED   SAILINGS    1894. 


Jniiuary  aiul  Pfbruary. 

From  St.  John,  Wedncsd.iy  and  Satiird,-iy. 
From  Annapolis  and   Digby,  Wednesday  and 
Saturday. 

Harrh  niid  April. 

From  St.  Jcihii,  Monday,  Wednesday  and 
Saturday. 

From  Annapolis  and  Digby,  Monday,  Wednes- 
day and  Saturday. 

May. 

From  St.  John,  Monday,  Wednesd.iy  and  Fri- 
day. 

From  Annapolis  and  Digby,  Tuesday,  Thursday 
and  Saturd.iy. 

June. 

From  St.  John,  Monday, Wednesday,  Thursday 
and  !•  riday. 

From  .Annapolis  and  I  'igby,  Tuesday,  Wednes- 
day, Thursday  and  Saturday  (until  2olh, 
when  daily  trips  will  be  made.) 


July  and  August. 

From  St.  John,  daily  trips  (Sundays  excepted). 
From  Annapolis  and  Digby,  daily  tri|is  (Sim- 
days  excepted). 

Septriuber.    From  St.  John  daily  until  9th. 

Italance  of  Month. 

From  St.  John,  Monday,  Wednesday,  Thurs- 
day, Friday. 

From  Annapolis  and  Digby,  Tuesday,  Wednes- 
day, Thursday  and  Saturday. 

October. 

F'rom  St.  John,  Monday, Wednesday  and  Friilay. 
From  Annapolis  a'>d  Digby,  Tuesday,  Thursday 
and  Saturday. 

NoTcmber  and  Decembt  -. 

From  St.  John,  Monday,  Wednesday  and  Sat- 
urday. 

From  Annapolis  and  Digby,  Monday^  Wednes- 
day and  Saturday. 


TROOP  &  SON,  St.  John,  N.  B.,  Managers. 

.  •     0  ©  0 

AGS-ENTS. 


CHAS.  M.  L.  TROOP, 

St.  John,  N.  It. 


H.  P.  SHORT, 

Digby,  N.  S. 


I.  S.  CARDER. 

Annapolis,  N.  S. 


B. 


mm 


in  connection 
Digby,  there 
armouth  and 
sixteen  miles, 
ecting  witli  tiie 
d   "Land    of 

Igor,  Portland, 
o.  to  Kasti)ort, 
ial  to  Moncton, 
ihen,  Canadian 
>e\v  lirunswick 


undays  excepted), 
daily  trips  (Sun- 
daily  until  9th. 

ednesday,  'I'hurs- 

Fiiesday,  Wednes- 
day. 

lesday  and  Friday, 
'uesday,  Thursday 


;dnesday  and  Sat- 
Monday,  Wednes- 

[ers. 


CARDER, 

nnnpoIU,  N.  S. 


FRONTIER  STEAMBOAT  COMPANY. 


^.^.^.^.^.M..M..^.^ 


1895-SUMMER  ARRANGEMENT— 1895. 


44 


ROSE  STANDISH" 


Leave-s  Calais  every  morning  (Sundays  excepted)  touching  at  Robbinston 
and  St.  Andrews.     Connecting  at  Eastport  with  the  "International 

Steamers  "  for 

St.  John,  Portland  and  Boston. 

Ferry  at  Eastport  for  Lubec  and  Campobello. 
Stage  at  Lubec  for  Machias. 
Stage  at  Eastport  for  Pembroke. 


RETURNING,  leave  Eastport  about  noon,  or  on  arrival  of  International 
Steainer,  touching  at  St.  Andrews  and  Robbinston.      Connecting 

at  Calais  with 

St  Croix  and  Penobscot  R'y  ior  Princeton  and  Grand  Lake  Streams. 

Canadian  Pacific  R'y  for  Hamilton  and  Woodstock. 

Shore  Line  Railway  for  St.  George. 


For  further  inforniation  see  weekly  time  cards,  or  apply  to  following  local  agents  : 

JOHN  PENDLEHURG,  Agent,  Sr.  Aniirews,  N.H. 

A.  H.  LEAVITT,  Agent,  EAsri'ORT,  Me. 

JAS.  L.  THOMPSON,  ^f.inager,  Calais,  Maine. 


The  Dufferin, 


-    -    ST.  John,  N.B. 


DOOIH    BV    THE    SEAT 


THE    ONLY     IIOTEI.     IN     THK     rROVINCKS     HAVING     (iKOUNDS 
FOR     RECK  HAT  ION     AND     OI'EN-AIR    CONCERTS. 


Strictly  First  Class. 


New  Management.   -  -  - 
-  -   New  Heating  (hot  water). 


Thoroughly  Renovated  and  Improved  for  Business  or  Pleasure. 
The  Most  Conveniently  Situated  Hotel  in  the  City. 


The  Cuisine     is    under    the   management    of   E.    M.    Trek,    a 
Club  Steward  and  Hotel  Man  of  twenty-two 
years'  experience. 


TERMS 


$2.00    to    $3.00.    AMERICAN    PLAN. 


E.     LK     ROI     WILLIS,     Proprietor. 


N.B. 


(JUOUNDS 

<TS. 


/VATER). 

•  Pleasure. 
City. 

VI.   Trek,    a 
twenty-two 


«!ta«ia.-«»^-.:',-ja«M;>«r<>i 


PL/fN. 


>r. 


T 


Y'N-Y-COED  HOTEL, 

:-:     :-:     CAMI'0HI':LL0    ISLAND.      :-:     :-: 


THIS   ATTRACTIVE   SUMMER   RESORT   WILL    BE   OPEN    FROM 
JUNE  2m    TO   SEPTEMBER  30th. 

effo-^TV^fiS  \  (otitic 


The  Hotel,  with  its  annex,  is  pleasantly  situated  near  the  water's  edge,  on  a 
bluff  seventy-five  feet  ai)ove  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  is  provided  with  all  the 
comforts  of  a  refined  home,  and  beautifully  furnished  throughout. 

Access  mav  be  had  bv  the  fine  steamers  of  the  International  Steamship  Com- 
pany, leaving  Commercial  Wharf,  lioston,  during  July  and  August,  every  Monday, 
Tuesday,  Thursday  and  Friday  at  s  P.M.,  and  Portland,  Wednesday  and  Saturday 
at  S  •'•M-  Connection  can  be  made  with  the  latter  steamers  by  taking  the  12.30 
or  I  00  P.M.  trains  on  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad,  "Eastern  and  Western  Divisions." 

For  other  Time-Tables  of  the  Company  see  first  pages  this  book. 

Baggage  checked  through  to  Campobello. 


Applications  for  Rooms  for  the  Season  of  1895  may  be  made, 
until   fune  20th,  to 


lOHN  A.  SHERLOCK,  1  '^^  ^^Tn^rnM""  ^'''""'' 

HOTF.L  AliHOTSFORl),  I  BOSTON. 

Post-Office  and  Telegraph  Address, 

TY'N-Y-COED,    EASTPORT,    Maine. 


Royal  Hotel, 

ST.  JOHN,  N.  B. 


KING   STREET. 


RAYMOND    £    DOHERTY. 

Prophietoks. 


?TK 


Kill--     Strc^et.      S'l\     JOIIX.      N.li. 
D.   LU.   IVIeCORlVIACK,    Proprietor. 


•I^e  Q6odd^,  #    « 


5}J 


ICASTPOW'l*.    Ml 


A  NEW  HOTEL  WITH  ALL  MODERN  IMPROVEMENTS. 

Steam  Heat,  Electric  IJfrhts, 
Bath  Rooms,  Etc. 


TIllC    LARC.KST    HOTKL    IN    KASTKKN    MAIN!:. 

T.  H.  BUCKMAN,  Proprietor. 
B.  W.  BOWMAN,  Clerk. 


1,,  IS,  m^imMMAW  &  CO., 
-«  COAL  DEALERS,  ^ 

WHARVES  AND  BRANCH  OfFIOta: 

144  Charles  St.  and  Sfrtt  St.  (.finirtiuii  af  Ma».'<achii.-<iUK  An-.,)  lioKtmi. 
f/  J.J        J  I      ill.  Wanhinijton  Ai^f.nwlGranHf^M.^  Sii.  Huston. 
Ct     I-*  J        X.  ^,^,^  Urhlif  Street,  KuM  Cdmhrhlije. 


86  STATE  STREET 

BOSTON  &  GLOUCESTER 


BOSTON. 


#     STEAMBOAT  fOMPANY. 

FOR    FREIGHT    AND    PASSENGERS. 

M.iking  Connection  with  all  Railroad  and  Steamship  Lines  out  of  Hoston.  'l  hmugh  Uates 
and  Bills  oir  Lading  Given  to  all  points  West  and  South.  Steamers  Leave  liosli.n  ami 
Cloucesier  Daily  During  the  Year,  Sundays  Excepted. 

See  Daily  papers  for  Thiie-Tablt. 
HCNRY  M.    WHITNEY.   PmmaiomNT. 

E.  S.  MERCHANT,  Trbas.  and  Agent,  BOSTON. 

ABBOTT  COFFIN,  Agent,  GLOUCESTER. 


r.  Mi:. 

EMENTS. 


JAIN!:. 

,  Proprietor. 

CO., 

'.,)  Ihisliiii. 

lOSTON. 

PANY. 

:s. 


Ihriiugh  Rates 
e   Itostim  a\u\ 


;STER. 


jlRPISTROIIIi  pHKSFEB  (jOPIPIIIIY. 


Tlt€'  carriafTi's  of  this  Company  will  he  in 
waiting  on  the  arrival  of  the  steamers  of 
the  INTERNATIONAL  STEAMSHIP 
COMPANY  at  Boston  to  transfer  pass- 
engers to  all  connecting  lines  of  steam- 
boats and  railroads,  and  also  to  hotels 
and  private  residences. 


J.  V.  Fletcher  &  Sons, 

66,  68,  70  A  72  Faneui/  Hall  Market. 

.     -     -      DIRECT   RECEIVERS   OF     -     -      - 

SWIFT'S  WESTERN  DRESSED  BEEF,  PORE  AND  UMB. 

Ilotc-lx  iincl  Sti'iiiiii<)il|ii>  Hii|i|>llril. 

I'lirvfyom  for  till'  Intkiinatiiinai,  Htkamniiii*  Co. 

CORTICELLI  SILK. 

Prudent  purchasers  save  time  and  mental 
friction  by  careful  discrimiuaiion  in  their 
5elt:ction  of  sewing  materials. 

This  group  shows  Silk,  Hutton-Hole  Twist 
and  Worsted  Koll  Draid,  each  bearing  the 
name  Curticelli,  which  if  a  guarantee  of  excel- 
lence. The  reputation  of  this  brand  has  been 
secured  by  55  years  of  effort,  attended  by  un- 
interrupted success.  With  this  name  on  Silk, 
Twist  and  liraid,  all  of  one  shade  to  match  the 
garment  and  each  other,  no  thoughtful  buyer 
hesitates. 

NONOTUCK    SILK    CO., 

18  Suminer  Street,  Boiton,  Mais. 

Ask /or  Cortiielli  Sil/c  and  Braiti  ami  see 

that  yoii  get  it. 


;W.: 


ONE 


OF    THE    OLDEST 
OF    THE     BEST 


:V 


MOST 


POPULAR    AND 
RELIABLE 


Judson  &  Co.'s  personally  conducted  parties  leave 
BOSTON  EVERY  TUESDAY  AT  3.00  P.M. 

r-'OR  KANSAS.  COLORADO.  OREGON.  WASHINGTON,  CALIFORNIA 
AND  ALL  POINTS  WEST. 

New  Upholstered  Pullman  Tourist  Sleeping  Cars.     Best  Service.     Lowest  Rates. 

REMEMBER    t'n<li  exc-urslon  Is  In  charge  of  .a  competent  luaimtfer. 

INFORMATION   COSTS   BUT   THE   TROUBLE   OF   INQUIRY. 

rOLDEBS  AMD  ILLUSTRATED  GUIDES  FREE. 

NO  11-;.— Iiiliiimtliinul  Sli'imu'rn  U'livliiu  Si.  .lolili  M Iii.v  iiuikc  cIIiitI  (Diiiioilldiif.. 

JUDSON  I  COMPANY,  m  WASHINGTON  STREET.  BOSTON. 


Brasoh  or  1805. 


Boston  and  Philadelphia  Steamship  Company. 

Forty  Hours  at  Sea.    EXCURSION  TR '  P   TOP"'  LADELPHIA. 


A  capital  clianve  to  enjoy  the  cooling  breezeH 
of  the  ocusn,  by  the  Itoiiton  and  l'hUii<l«lphla 
Stenmahlp  Company's  SteamabipK,  Indian, 
I'akthian  and  Hpaktan. 

Stesnitm  leavi'  Boston  from  the  South  Side 
of  Ccntnil  Wharf  every  Wedn^iday  and 
Saturday,  at  3  p.m.  Due  In  Piiiladki.puia 
Friday  and  Monday  a.m. 

Leave  Phii.adbu-iiia  from  I'lor  SO,  South 
Wharven,  foot  of  Tine  Street,  every  Tues- 
day and  Friday  at  3  p.m.    Due  la  Bos'Ton 


Thursday  and  Sunday  a.m. 

Aocuramuilatlona  Hnt-claa*.  Fare  for 
AiIiiHm,  SIO  RmcIii  Clilltlren  under  ten 
years  of  atce.  •.)  each  ;  .Meals,  and  Berth  lu 
Btatorooni  Included.  Exiiursloii  tivketH  to 
Philadelphia  and  return  by  either  Steamer, 
•IH.  No  pasiage  secured  until  paid  for  and 
number  of  berth  and  stateroom  entund  on 
ticket.  For  further  particulars,  apply  at 
the  otUce  of  the  Company. 


F.  P.  WING,  Agent,  Central  Wharf,  Boston. 

GEO.  C.  ECKHARDT,  Agent,  338  So.  Del.  Ave.,  Philadelphia. 


i<ii>lii<w>iii<iriPn<wMawfc>ai* 


AR    AND 
lABLE 

ipagles. 


ties  leave 
0  P.M. 

N.CALIFORNIA 

Lowest  Rates. 

iiipL'tciit  iimiiafrcr. 

NQUIRY. 


IIIIIM'tlllllK 


REET.  BOSTON. 


ly- 


Sbasom  or  189S. 


I  PHILADELPHIA. 


y  a.m. 

■tclMi.  Fare  for 
Clilltlren  under  ten 
;  Muiila,  and  ttvtth  tu 
excursion  tivketH  to 
rn  by  either  Slenmcr, 
jred  until  paid  fur  and 
stateroom  entund  on 
particular*,  apply  at 
ny. 


,,  Philadelphia. 


L-U 


ui 

E 

>s 

.5 

(/T 

1    "• 

1  ■ 

c/) 
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O 

i 

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CO 

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t 

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Q_ 

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CO 


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F 

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tr 

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tlfl 

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■ 


Cliarlottetown  Steam  Naviotion  Co.,  Limited. 


PHIHCE  EDWHHD  ISL0ND 

l//a  POINT  DU  CHENE  and  PICTOU. 


®^mmmWL  ARRAllGEMUSftT— 1895. 

The  fine  twin  screw  steamer  "  Northumberland,"  of  this  comiiany,  will  leave 
Sumnierside  at  8.00  a.m  dailv,  Sundays  excepted,  for  Point  du  Chene.  Keturnmg, 
will  leave  Point  du  Chene  on  arrival 'of  morning  train  from  St.  John. 

The  steamer  "  St.  Lawrence  "  will  leave  Charlottetown  at  6  a.m.  daily,  Sundays 
excepted,  for  Pictou.  Returning,  leave  Pictou  daily  on  arrival  of  morning  train 
from  Halifax. 

Passengers  for  St.  John  and  intermediate  points  leave  Charlottetown  at  7.00  a.m. 
by  rail,  connecting  with  steamer  at  Sumnierside  for  Point  du  Chene,  arriving  at  St. 
John  same  evening. 

FRED  W.  HALES,  Manager,  Charlottetown. 


LONG  ISLAND, 


NEAR    LUBEC,    ME. 


One  and  one  third  iniles  long  and  one  third  mile  wide,  com- 
prising about  550  acres.  The  Island  is  rich  in  natural  beauty,  the 
surface  being  pleasantly  diversified  between  hilly  bluffs,  gentle  un- 
dulations and  level  land. 

Building  lots  for  sale.     Inquire  of 

PAS8AMAQU0DDY  LAND  AND  IMPROVEWENT  CO. 

F.  G.  DAVISON,  266  Washington  Street,  BOSTON. 


-  -.  -■>-—.^---,^.l-f,jp.,»)»»^  .-.^f  f-- 


).,  Limited. 


ND 


595. 

ipany,  will  leave 
enc.  Returning, 
)hn. 

n.  daily,  Sundays 
of  morning  train 


etownat  7.00  a.m. 
le,  arriving  at  St. 

harlottetown. 


D, 


lile  wide,  coni- 
ral  beauty,  the 
uflfs,  gentle  un- 


EMENT  CO. 

STON. 


The  Ne=mat=ta=no, 

AT  NORTH    LUBEC,    ME. 


This  popular  hotel   will   open   for   the   season   July    ist,    1895. 

One  hundred  feet  above  the  sea  level. 

Large  Concert  Hall  in  connection  with  hotel.  First-class 
Bowling  Alleys,  Tennis  Courts,  Boats  and  Caf^s. 

Within  easy  distance  of  St.  Andrews  Bay,  Magaguadavic  River, 
Mahar  Falls,  Campobello,  Grand  Manan,  Quoddy  Head,  and  other 
places  of  note. 

The  New  England  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Summer  Encampment  is  held  at 
this  place  in  July  and  .August. 

There  will  be  Tournaments,  Excursions  and  Concerts. 

For  hotel  rates,  address 

R.  M.  ARMSTRONG,  Manager,  NORTH  LUBEC,  ME. 


■l>^iia.iMmi1|-|MlTr1Hwt«Filir--  II 


^ilUide 


v.,.v 


Merchant 


PLEASANTLY    LOCATED   NEAR      LUBEC,  -         -         MAINE. 

STEAMBOAT    LANDING.  W.  B    COTfLE.  Proprietor. 


FIRST-CLASS    LIVKRV     STABLE 

IN   CONNECTION    WITH 

THE   HOUSE. 


TERMS   MODERATE. 


W.  J.  MALLMAN, 

Proprictor. 


PERMANENT    AND     TRANSIENT 

BOARDERS  ACCOMMODATED 

AT  REASONABLE   RATES. 


Hot  and  Cold  Water. 

Electric  Bells. 


Flr»t-elasR  Mvery  stable  In  connection. 


LUBEC, 


MAINe. 


W.  B.  MOWRY. 


IF  YOU  WANT 


DEALKRIN 


READY-MADE  CLOTHING. 


(1ENT8'  FURNISHING  GOODS. 


HATS  AND  CAPS. 


PUT  THE  LUBEC  HERALD 
ON  YOUR  LIST. 


COVER  THE  TERRITORY  YOU 
WANT  TO  COVER. 


ADVKBTISIKG  KATES,  00 (TS.  PKB  INCH, 
CASH  IN  ADVANCE." 


WATER    STREET, 

XitrSEC,       -        -        -      StC^ZXTS. 


All  kinds  of  pluin  and  fancy  Job  printing 
at  City  prices. 

Mail  orders  receive  prompt  attention. 
Circular  work  a  specialty. 

LUBEC    HERALD, 

LUBEC,    ME. 


Hotel, 

MAINE. 

Proprietor. 


TRANSIENT 
IM  MO  DAT  ED 
.E   RATES. 

ir. 

ctric  Bells. 

Iv  in  connection. 


:C  HERALD 
LIST. 


RITORY  YOU 
:OVER. 


BO (TN.  PKB  INCH, 
VAHCE. 

I  fiincy  jolj  i)rintlns( 

ompt  attention, 
iilty. 

ERALD, 

LUBEC,    ME. 


'-trf^'"-""    *^-^'i».n^'"^-^---.-H  ■  .-JT,i---,-i^^sfci< 


WOODBRIDGE  BAGGAGE  TRANSFER, 


Dice  at  Mentioiial  SteanM;  Coviy's  Ml, 


Authorized  Agents  of  the  above-named    Express  are  in  wait- 
ing at  the  landing  of  the  steamers  of  the  International 
Steamship  Company  to  forward  baggage  to  all 
parts  of  the  city  and  suburbs,  also  to  all 
trains  and  steamers. 


J.  S.  WI'^'SLOW. 


E.  W.  CI.ARK. 


.AA»^A».>^^AA. 


J.S. 
*  &  CO.  * 


SHIP 
BROKERS, 


-AND  DEALERS 1N« 


SHIP  STORES   AND  CHANDLERY. 


■  AGENTS ■ 


Nos.    135    and    137    COMMERCIAL    STREET, 

Portland,   Maine- 


V 


\.,  -w         -rr^ 


'  300  Series."     Hot  Water  Heater. 


QURNEY 

HOT  WATER  HEATERS, 

Steam  BoOers  and  Radiators, 

For  Heating  Churches,   Public  Buildings, 

Offices,  Apartment  Houses,  Residences, 

Green  Houses,  Etc., 

By  HOT  WATER  and  STEAM. 


"Ourncy"    Radiator, 
For  H(it  Wate'. 


"  Double  Crown  "  Hot  Water  Heater. 


The  Acme  of  Perfection  for  their 
Respective  Requirements  --    •• 

Send  for   • '  How  Best  to  Heat  Our  Homes, ' '  a  valuable 
treatise  on  Hot  Water  or  Steam  Heating. 

durney  Heater  Mamifacturlng  Co., 

W3  Frank/in  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


*  (iiirney  "  Steam  Hoiler. 


HY 

■ATERS, 

:adiators, 

lie  Buildings, 
Residences, 
c, 

STEAM. 


^aler  Heater. 


p  their 


's,"  a  ¥aluable 
Heating. 

irlng  Co., 

1,  Mass. 


3kA^<^^2UK3il<l«««<^!*  ;  .«VC'M-«f.Urc»r>»3  ^ 


"The  Franklin" 


AMERICA'S  BEST  TYPEWRITER. 


A  USEFUL  GIFT  FOR  YOUR  MINISTER. 


A   STANDARD    MACHINE   WITH    UNIVERSAL    KEY-BOARD,    AT  A 

POPULAR    PRICE. 


_  jk 

$75. 

i^^^^^S^BnttSfl^^HflBH^I^^^^BP 

$75. 

H/IS  NO  EQUAL  FOR  BUSII\IESS  OR  PROFESSIONAL  USE 


Writes   in   Sioht,    =    =    =    =     . 
=    =    =    Always  in  Aliontvient, 

\nA  challenges  comparison  with  any  other,  especially  in  the  most 
essential  points  of  simplicity,  durability,  speed,  economy,  alignment 
and  good  work.  Don't  buy  until  you  have  seen  and  tried  the 
LATEST  machine.     Respectable  Agents  Wanted.     Catalogue  Free. 


FRANKLIN  TYPEWRITER  MANUFACTURING  CO., 


i 


BROOKLYN,     N.V. 


mmmm 


\Vm.  I).  WiNHoii,  I'ri'Klilfiil.  S.  T.  SNDW,  'I'ri'iiHiii-fr.  .Ia!<.  K.  Hkown,  .\m>iil. 


REVERE  COPPER  CO. 


S' 


P 


369  ATLANTIC  AVENUE,  BOSTON, 


242  SOUTH  STREET,  NEW  YORK. 


MANUFACTURERS  AND  DEALERS  IN 

COPPER    AND  YELLOW   METAL  SHEATHING,   BOLTS,   COM- 
POSITION,   COPPER    AND    YELLOW     METAL     NAILS, 
COMPOSITION    SPIKES    AND     SHIP    FASTENING, 
YELLOW  METAL  PUMP  RODS,  BRAZIERS' COP- 
PER AND    DIMENSION   YELLOW    METAL, 
COLD  ROLLED,  AND  PATENT  LEVELED, 
IN  STOCK  AND  MADE  TO  ORDER. 


I 


SmTHDili  COFFE  FOR  YACHTS  A  SFECIALTT. 


Importers  of  Sheathing  Felt. 


HdWN,  Aifcnt. 


30. 


YORK. 


TS,   COM- 

NAILS, 

[NG, 

P- 


CIALTY. 


BOpi^  iiTV  BIDTEL,    AJIERlGAJl  HOUSE, 


Calais,  Maine. 
D.  M.  OAnoNmit.   pitoPHieroH, 

A    A 

Conches  to  and  from  nil 
traliiR  nod  atejimerB. 

A    A 
Hotel   Heated   by  Steaixi. 


OALAfS,  MAINE. 

-Hlc  First-class  *-^ 
Livery  Connected. 


J.  G.  HAMILTON, 

PROPRIETOR. 


INSURE  WITH, 


WHITLQGK, 


? 


ST.   STEPHEN,  N.  B. 


FRED.  S.  HARTFORD, 


« 


LIVERY 


AND 


HACK 


Calais,  Maine. 
Coaches  to  Steamers  and  Trains. 


MARTIN  CONE 


Livery  aod  Sale 

STABLE, 

Main  Street, 
CALAIS,       -  MAINE. 


HILL,  PIKE  &  CO., 

Wholesale 

.   .  .  DiHICT  IMFORTBBS  OF   .   .   . 

Molasses  and  Tea  and  Jobbers 
of  Flonr. 


CALAIS,  MAINE. 

^S-  siell  good,  at  Boston  prices.    Xo  goods 
at  Retail. 


■  iziufcjgir-  -a  *^^  -^>^^*  rtfcjv."itn  -ail  ■  fft.^jafcfefte*'^^^^*^'^ 


Z.£/?i9//VG  MERCANTILE  HOUSES  OF  ST.  JOHN. 


MANCHESTER,  ROBERTSON  k  ALLISON, 

THE  LARGEST  DRY  GOODS  HOUSE  IN  THE  MARITIME  PROVINCES. 

SII.KS,  MANTI.KS,  MII.I.INKKV,  DRESS  COi  HiS,  KUKS, 

C.l.inKS,  HOSIERY,  UMHRKM.AS,  Cl.OTHS,  LACKS, 

UNDERWEAR,       WATERl'ROOKS,      GENTLEMEN'S  KURNlSHLNdS,      CARPEI'S. 


P^acaulay  Bros.  &  Co. 


VIcltoiM  to  llic  city  nre  hoIIcIIciI  to  lli»|ii'ct  our  Htock  of  lilutielanc  Dry  Ooodn  XiK'cliiltU'n : 

DRESS  GOODS,  SILKS.  LACES,  VELVETS,  FINE  KID  GLOVES, 

.        GENTLEMEN'S  FURNISHING  GOODS. 

65  to  69  King  Street,  St.  John,  N.B. 


LIMITED. 


W.  H.  THORHE  &  COMPANY,  -^  ==• 

Fishing  Tackle,  Salmon  Rods, 
Forests'  Flies  and  Lines. 


WHOLESALE    AND    RETAIL. 

40  TO  46  PRINCE  WILLIAM  ST.,  market  square. 

ST.  JOHN,    N.B. 


FERGUSON  &  PAGE.        C.  &  E.  EVERETT,  ji 


JSWBIE,SR8. 


.MANlKACTUREIiS   OK 


F^INK    FURS. 


DLimonds,    Fine   Jewelry,  Watches,   Oper.i         ^^  ' — 

LADIES'  SEAL  COATS,  MADE  FROM 
Classes,  also  Souvenir  Spoons,  Silver  Novelties.    !     „gg.p    LONDON     DYED     ALASKA     SEAL 

'     SKINS,  A  SPECIALTY. 


43  King  St.,    -    ST.  JOHN,  N.B. 


II  King  St..  St.  John,  N.B. 


IHN. 


IISON, 

(riNOES. 

s, 

,ACKS, 

■i,      CARPK  IS. 


mIh  Sin'eltiltli'F" .' 

s, 

OODS. 


I  MIT  ED. 


lARE, 


JRS._ 

MADE  FROM 
LASKA    SEAL 

hn,  N.B. 


MiM.  i^iaKWa^p^t^^K  ift^tfafli<tw<^^>i  mil 


Eiiitei  Boilers  anl  laMis 

.    -     -     FOR     HEATING     -     -    - 
Residences,  Churches,  Schools, 

Stores  ami  Pnltlic  Buildings  by 


—\ 


STEAM  AND  HOT  WATER. 


,  At  Exeter,  N.  H.,  we  make  the  •'  Exeter' 
I  Heating  Apparatus  for  Steam  and  Hot  Waterl 
I  in  a  line  that  covers  every  possible  requirement.! 
I  Here  we  simply  make  a  prefUction.vig.  :l 
I  If  you  contemplate  the  purchase  of  any  such  I 
I  apparatus— be  it  trifling  or  extensive— you  willl 
I  err  in  failing  to  Srat  inveatigate  what  we 
I  have  to  offer  you.  Our  large  illustrated  Cata-' 
lloguc  is  yours  for  the  mere  asking. 


\% 


SM^^ 


[-fiqS. 


EXETER  Machine  Works, 

SALESROOMS.  3a  OLIVER  ST..  BOSTON. 

WORKS:  EXETER,  N.  H. 

The  past  mo  years  have  considerably  modified 

"  Exeter"  heating  systems. 


X)(t(!& 


8*»L 


The  only  heating  Apparatus  Com- 
bining   Safety,     Economy,    Efficiency 
and    Durability. 
THE  FIVE  REQUISITES  OF  A  PERFECT  APPARATUS. 

MANUFACTURED     BY     -    -    - 

EXETER   MACHINE   WORKS. 

WORKS:    EXETER,    N.H. 

(32  OLIVER  STREET,  BOSTON. 
SALESROOMS:], ^3  centre  STREET,  NEW  YORK. 


THE 


Intercolonial     Railway 


OF    CANADA. 


rite 

Popular 
Line. 


Route. 


Betuieen  Montreal,  Qaebee,  St.  John,  Halifax,  Sydney,  C.  B.,  and 

Ppinee  Edaiard  Island. 


THK    I'KOPLE'S    RAILWAY 

makes  fast  time  and  low  fares.  Its  equipment  is  of  standard  excel- 
lence. Trains  brilliantly  lighted  by  electricity.  Westinghouse  .Automatic 
Air  Brakes. 

A  PERFECT  TRAIN  SERVICE. 

No  other  route  in  America  presents  to  tourists,  pleasure  seekers  and 
invalids  so  many  unrivalled  attractions.  Pure  air,  splendid  sea  bathing  and 
a  perfect  panorama  of  delightful  views. 

The  Intercolonial  Railway  traverses  for  200  mdes  the  south  shore  c»  the 
majestic  St.  Lawrence,  thence  through  the  famous  lake,  mountain  and  vai;<;y 
region  of  the  Metapedia  and  Restigouche  Rivers,  unequalled  for  their  mag- 
nificent scenerv,  and  along  the  beautiful  and  pictures(iue  shores  of  the  Ik.ie 
des  Chaleurs  and  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and  the  "  Scenic  Route  through 
Cape  Hreton.     Tourists  should  be  sure  to  include  its  famous  resorts  m  their 

summer  tour.  ,     t   ^        1     •  1 

Sportsmen  will  find  the  rivers,  lakes  and  woods  along  the  Intercolonial 

unequalled. 

SAFETY,  SPEED  AND  COMFORT 

Round  trip  tourist  tickets,  summer  excursion  and  sea  bathing  tickets, 
o-ood  for  passage  between  the  1st  of  June  and  last  of  October,  are  for  sale 
at  all  the  principal  railway  and  steamship  agencies  in  Canada  and  United 
States, 

Guide  books  to  the  Intercolonial  Railway,  maps,  hotel  lists,  books  of 
summer  tours,  also  time  tables  can  be  had  on  application  to  city  agents,  or  to 

D.   POTTINGER,   General  Manager.   MONGTON,   H.B. 
JHO.  K.  LYONS,  Gen' I  Pass.  Agent,  MOHCTON,  N.B. 


my 


Route. 

,  C.  B.,  and 


;:inflard   excel- 
ise  Automatic 


;  seekers  and 
ea  bathing  and 

ill  shore  c'  the 
tain  and  valley 
for  their  maj;- 
;s  of  the  IJr.ie 
ante  "  through 
resorts  in  tlieir 

e  Intercolonial 


lathing  tickets, 
cr,  are  for  sale 
la  and  United 

lists,  books  of 
:v  agents,  or  to 

,   H.B. 
M.B. 


3Ucmovaurtum. 


I 
I 


iUcmovaudum. 


PUBLISHED  BY  THE 


NTERNATIONAL     SlEAnSHIP    Go 


i'|ijl»lliyi'|win'.ir.^— 


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-' j^^6-^"i 


Boston,, '^Ass, 
r      Portland,  ■ 

Eastport, 
LuBEC  cg  Calais,  Ae. 

Campobello.StAndrcws 

AND 

5T.  JOMN.N.B. 

AND  BEYOND. 


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